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The Quiet Luxury of Carved Gemstones

By Ramit Kapur- MD, GSI India

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The world of gemstones is beyond their brilliance, color, transparency, and phenomena. When we think of carvings, we’re not just talking about gemstones used in jewellery. Carving today spans everything from trays and coasters we use every day to idols, vases, and other collectibles that become cherished pieces of art. It’s an often-overlooked art form that deserves recognition for the immense artistry and craftsmanship involved. 

As someone deeply embedded in the industry and leading GSI India, I can confidently say that people won’t invest in a piece; no matter how precious the stone: if the carving isn’t done right. So, the first selling point centers around craftsmanship, of course followed by the authenticity and value of the gemstone used. 

The quiet poetry of carved gemstones exists beyond the bounds of conventional jewellery design and often go unnoticed in mainstream narratives. Yet they carry some of the richest legacies, the most intimate expressions of craftsmanship, and a cultural gravity that no ideal cut or laser inscription can replicate. Today, as jewellery evolves into a medium of meaning and identity, carved gemstones are experiencing a powerful resurgence. Whether it’s a delicate floral motif on a tourmaline or a symbolic script etched into an emerald, these stones embody permanence with purpose. 

For a generation that values intention over ornament, carvings offer exactly that: a wearable emotion, a personal artifact, and a story that transcends carat weight. At GSI, we celebrate jewellery in every form, especially those that carry soul, tradition, and storytelling in their very structure.

From Courts and Temples to Contemporary Studios

Gemstone carving isn’t a trend; it is a tradition. Long before modern jewellery, carved gems were speaking their own language: one of spirit, status, and storytelling. From temple idols to royal signets, they’ve carried meanings deeper than beauty.

Two classical techniques form the backbone of this craft: Intaglios, with designs engraved below the surface for wax seals, and Cameos, where raised motifs emerge in sculptural relief. Both require not just precision, but intuition, a dialogue between artist and stone.

Germany’s Idar-Oberstein remains a living museum of this legacy. Here, stones like agate and jasper are sculpted into heirlooms, passed down as both art and ancestry. Every piece is a story carved in silence.

If Idar-Oberstein is Europe’s carving capital, Jaipur is India’s beating heart. Developed with Mughal patronage particularly by emperors Akbar, Jahangir, and Shah Jahan for their distinguished taste in art, it has since then grown into a global hub; transforming roughs into divine figures, florals, and high fashion commissions. Its edge? A rare blend of old-world mastery and new-world relevance.

And then, there’s Fabergé: the master of turning carving into couture. His works in quartz and chalcedony weren’t just intricate; they were emotional. A blossom. A bunny. A memory in mineral form.

Today, carving is everywhere; from bespoke jewels to vases, coasters, and collectibles. Artists across the world are reimagining tradition for the now. And in an age of instant everything, carved gemstones stand apart: timelessness you can touch, and craftsmanship that speaks with soul.

What the Eye Misses, the Lab Must Find

Carved stones pose a very unique gemological challenge. At our GSI labs, we encounter an extraordinary variety of carved gemstones; each one unique in form, scale, and sentiment. Some are delicately slivered into symbolic motifs, while others are grand in presence, demanding custom instrument setups and careful handling. Testing these pieces, especially when set in jewellery, requires precision, adaptability, and a deep understanding of gemstone behavior.

Carvings, by nature, are emotionally charged. They’re often adored not just for beauty, but for meaning. But emotion must be backed by authentication and the right certification; especially in today’s high-value, high-stakes market. Whether it’s identifying treatments, or distinguishing natural from imitations, our role is to bring clarity to complexity.

At GSI, we don’t just verify a gemstone; we translate its unspoken story. From the delicate depths of an intaglio to the elevated relief of a cameo, our certification doesn’t just protect value; it protects legacy.

Technology Has Unlocked New Possibilities

Modern lapidaries are now able to carve harder materials with precision that was once unthinkable. For a long time, artists chose softer, more affordable stones, to avoid breakage, and preserve weight. Using precious gems was simply too risky. But with time and technology, that’s changed. Today, gem material like sapphire, spinel, and topaz, once considered too delicate to sculpt, are being carved with remarkable precision. What was once unthinkable is now part of the craft’s evolving canvas. 

But while tools evolve, the soul of carving stays rooted in intention, vision, and a deep respect for the stone’s natural voice. That interplay between human and mineral is what makes a carving come alive.

Today, luxury is no longer defined by price tags or perfection alone; it’s about meaning, craftsmanship, and cultural richness. Carved gemstones carry all of that, and more. 

At GSI, we believe that true appreciation begins with understanding. Whether it’s a carved idol, a custom tray, or a fine piece of jewellery, the value of a gemstone lies in both its beauty and its authenticity. That’s why certification matters: not just for what a gem is, but for the story it tells.

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Natural diamonds have to rediscover their relevance to a jaded consumer that wants to separate themselves from the past

By Edahn Golan

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Martyn Charles Marriott, drawing on 45 years in the diamond industry, in a blog  titled Co-Operation between African Diamond Producers on the IDMA website, advocates for a new era of co-operation among African diamond producers, seeing the current debate around De Beers’ future as an opportunity. He proposes forming a diamond “OPEC,” reminiscent of the stability once maintained by the Oppenheimers’ Central Selling Organization (CSO). The CSO, through a stockpile, quota system, and vast generic advertising  historically benefited the entire industry. Marriott believes a collective entity involving nations like Botswana and Angola would be more stable and bankable than a single-country approach.

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JewelBuzz spoke to noted diamond industry analyst Edahn Golanon his take on Marriott’s view and how practical and feasible this “ nostalgic yearning” was. This is what Edahn Golan has to say:

I don’t think that resurrecting a monopoly is possible, much less legal. I understand the nostalgic yearning for the ‘good old days,’ but that is not where the solution will be found. On the contrary, the industry at large – and De Beers in particular – needs to evolve and adapt. They both need to reinvent themselves. 

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Natural diamonds have to rediscover their relevance to a jaded consumer that wants to separate themselves from the past, a consumer market that wants luxury that doesn’t shout bling. Most importantly, diamonds should stand for values that are relevant to today’s cultural norms. 

That is where diamonds will find their future, not by reimposing tight control on the pipeline.

I also read Chaim Even-Zohar’s column. I worked with him for many years and hold deep respect for both him and his approach to the industry. 

That said, I believe Botswana does not need to go all in on owning De Beers.The country already receives more than 75% of the diamond revenue generated locally, along with a portion of the revenue De Beers earns from its operations in Namibia, Canada, and South Africa. Expanding that share or seeking a larger cut from other countries would only deepen Botswana’s dependency on diamonds.

Instead, Botswana should diversify its income sources and invest more internally, a process it should have initiated more than a decade ago. 

For example, if it channels investment into its international airport and succeeds in expanding tourism, the country would generate greater income, reduce its reliance on luxury sales, improve foreign currency inflows, and, in the process, expose more of the world to its diamonds.

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JewelBuzz is Asia’s First Digital Jewellery Media & India’s No.1 B2B Jewellery Magazine, published by AM Media House. Since 2016, we’ve been the trusted source for jewellery news, market trends, trade insights, exhibitions, podcasts, and brand stories, connecting jewellers, retailers, and industry professionals worldwide.

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