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Natural diamonds have to rediscover their relevance to a jaded consumer that wants to separate themselves from the past

By Edahn Golan

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Martyn Charles Marriott, drawing on 45 years in the diamond industry, in a blog  titled Co-Operation between African Diamond Producers on the IDMA website, advocates for a new era of co-operation among African diamond producers, seeing the current debate around De Beers’ future as an opportunity. He proposes forming a diamond “OPEC,” reminiscent of the stability once maintained by the Oppenheimers’ Central Selling Organization (CSO). The CSO, through a stockpile, quota system, and vast generic advertising  historically benefited the entire industry. Marriott believes a collective entity involving nations like Botswana and Angola would be more stable and bankable than a single-country approach.

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JewelBuzz spoke to noted diamond industry analyst Edahn Golanon his take on Marriott’s view and how practical and feasible this “ nostalgic yearning” was. This is what Edahn Golan has to say:

I don’t think that resurrecting a monopoly is possible, much less legal. I understand the nostalgic yearning for the ‘good old days,’ but that is not where the solution will be found. On the contrary, the industry at large – and De Beers in particular – needs to evolve and adapt. They both need to reinvent themselves. 

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Natural diamonds have to rediscover their relevance to a jaded consumer that wants to separate themselves from the past, a consumer market that wants luxury that doesn’t shout bling. Most importantly, diamonds should stand for values that are relevant to today’s cultural norms. 

That is where diamonds will find their future, not by reimposing tight control on the pipeline.

I also read Chaim Even-Zohar’s column. I worked with him for many years and hold deep respect for both him and his approach to the industry. 

That said, I believe Botswana does not need to go all in on owning De Beers.The country already receives more than 75% of the diamond revenue generated locally, along with a portion of the revenue De Beers earns from its operations in Namibia, Canada, and South Africa. Expanding that share or seeking a larger cut from other countries would only deepen Botswana’s dependency on diamonds.

Instead, Botswana should diversify its income sources and invest more internally, a process it should have initiated more than a decade ago. 

For example, if it channels investment into its international airport and succeeds in expanding tourism, the country would generate greater income, reduce its reliance on luxury sales, improve foreign currency inflows, and, in the process, expose more of the world to its diamonds.

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From Prompt To Pendant: How AI Is Turning Jewellery Buyers Into Designers

By Dr  Sandip P. Dhurat 

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Not long ago, jewellery design was largely a one-way conversation. Consumers browsed catalogues, visited stores, or selected pieces from showcases. If they wanted something custom-made, they relied on the jeweller’s sketches, imagination, and expertise.

Today, a new collaborator has entered the room: Artificial Intelligence.

Across age groups, consumers are experimenting with AI-powered image generators and design applications to create jewellery concepts that reflect their personal tastes. A few words typed into a prompt—”an emerald engagement ring inspired by lotus petals” or “a contemporary mangalsutra with geometric motifs”—can generate multiple design possibilities within seconds.

What happens next is perhaps the most interesting part of the story.Instead of ordering these pieces online, many consumers are taking their AI-generated designs to the one person they trust most: their family jeweller.

The new wave of customisation

For decades, customization in jewellery was often limited to engraving names, changing gemstones, or making minor design alterations. AI is expanding that possibility dramatically.

Consumers are no longer arriving at jewellery stores with vague ideas. They are walking in with detailed visual references generated on their smartphones. Some have experimented with dozens of versions before settling on a favourite. Others blend elements from different designs to create something entirely unique.

In a sense, AI is democratizing the design process. It allows consumers to participate creatively, even if they have no formal design background.

For younger buyers especially, this level of involvement is appealing. They want jewellery that feels personal, expressive, and different from what everyone else is wearing. AI gives them a playground where they can explore possibilities before making a purchase.

Role of traditional family jeweller

If AI can generate designs so easily, does that diminish the role of the jeweller?Quite the opposite.

While AI can create attractive images, it cannot determine whether a design is structurally sound, comfortable to wear, practical to manufacture, or durable enough for daily use. A ring that looks spectacular on a screen may be impossible to cast. A delicate bracelet generated by AI may not withstand regular wear.

This is where the expertise of the jeweller becomes invaluable.

Family jewellers are increasingly acting as interpreters between digital imagination and physical reality. They assess AI-generated concepts, refine proportions, suggest technical modifications, and ensure that the final piece balances aesthetics with craftsmanship.

Many jewellers describe the process as similar to working with a client-provided sketch—except the sketch is now more sophisticated and visually detailed.

The trust factor remains unchanged. Consumers may discover designs through AI, but they still want someone they know to guide the process and stand behind the finished product.

New collaboration trend

The relationship between customer and jeweller is evolving from buyer-and-seller to co-creators.

Consider a young couple designing an engagement ring. Instead of selecting from existing collections, they use AI to explore various combinations of settings, gemstones, and motifs. They then sit down with their jeweller to discuss feasibility, budget, stone availability, and craftsmanship.

The final piece is neither entirely AI-designed nor solely jeweller-designed. It is the outcome of a collaborative journey.

This shift creates opportunities for jewellers to engage customers more deeply. Conversations become richer because customers arrive with visual ideas rather than abstract descriptions.

In many cases, the design process becomes part of the emotional value of the jewellery itself.

The opportunity

The trend presents several advantages for jewellers willing to embrace it.

First, AI-generated concepts can serve as conversation starters. Instead of spending significant time understanding a customer’s vision from scratch, jewellers can begin with a visual reference and refine it together.

Second, it can increase demand for bespoke jewellery. Consumers who might never have considered custom design are discovering how accessible it has become.

Third, it opens the door to a new generation of buyers who value individuality over mass-produced designs.

Rather than competing with AI, jewellers can position themselves as the experts who transform digital concepts into heirloom-worthy creations.

Despite all the excitement around AI, jewellery remains an intensely human product.

A necklace gifted on a wedding day, a ring marking an engagement, or a bracelet passed down through generations carries emotions that no algorithm can replicate. AI may help generate ideas, but it cannot understand family traditions, cultural significance, sentimental stories, or the subtle nuances of personal taste.

Consumers are discovering designs through technology, but they are still seeking reassurance, expertise, and craftsmanship from people they trust.

Perhaps that is the real story behind this trend.

AI is not replacing the jeweller. It is empowering consumers to participate in the creative process while making the jeweller’s role even more valuable. The screen may provide the inspiration, but it is the skilled hand of the jeweller that transforms a digital concept into a treasured piece of jewellery.

In the years ahead, the most successful jewellers may not be those who resist AI, but those who embrace it as another tool in the ongoing art of personalization—where technology sparks the idea, and craftsmanship gives it life.

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JewelBuzz is Asia’s First Digital Jewellery Media & India’s No.1 B2B Jewellery Magazine, published by AM Media House. Since 2016, we’ve been the trusted source for jewellery news, market trends, trade insights, exhibitions, podcasts, and brand stories, connecting jewellers, retailers, and industry professionals worldwide.

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