JB Insights
Ashth: Built on pillars of Innovation, Ethics and Unmatched Craftsmanship
In a rapidly evolving global market, the traditional pillars of luxury—scarcity, high price points, and status—are being dismantled. Kaivan Shah –Co-founder of ASHTH, posits that we are entering an era where luxury is defined by emotional resonance, ethical integrity, and creative freedom. Driven by the conscientious values of Gen Z, the jewelry industry is shifting from a “store of value” model to a “narrative of self” model.
At the forefront of the lab diamond revolution is Ashth with its tag line Mine. Not Mined. driving over 20% YoY growth in designer lab diamond jewellery. Built on three pillars—Innovation, Ethics, and Unmatched Craftsmanship—Ashth captivates ethical luxury consumers.
The Shift from Status to Sentiment
Kaivan argues that modern luxury is an intensely personal experience. The value of a piece of jewelry no longer rests solely on its price tag, but on the memories and meanings it evokes. For the contemporary consumer, jewelry serves as a medium for self-expression. This transition marks a departure from outward displays of wealth toward an inward alignment with one’s personal identity and beliefs.
The Ethical Revolution: Lab-Grown Diamonds
A central theme in Kaivan’s perspective is the rise of lab-grown diamonds (LGDs) as a moral and cultural choice rather than a budget-driven one. Led by Gen Z’s demand for transparency and sustainability, LGDs have moved from the periphery to the center of the luxury conversation.
- Values over Valuation: Affluent consumers are increasingly choosing LGDs because they align with a commitment to environmental and social responsibility.
- A New Product Category: By decoupling diamonds from the “investment asset” mindset, the industry is free to treat them as high-value, consumable luxury, focusing on their aesthetic and emotional appeal rather than their resale speculation.
Design as the New Differentiator
With the constraints of material cost significantly lowered by LGDs, a new frontier of unleashed creativity has emerged. Kaivan highlights how this affordability acts as a catalyst for innovation:
- Bold Silhouettes: Designers can now experiment with larger carats, intricate structures, and avant-garde shapes that were previously cost-prohibitive.
- Versatility: The focus has shifted toward wearable luxury—pieces like detachable earrings and modular necklaces that offer multi-functional utility for the modern lifestyle.
- Artistry over Rarity: In the LGD era, the “premium aura” is built through superior craftsmanship and distinctive storytelling rather than the mere rarity of the stone.
Kaivan underscores the USP of Ashth’s product portfolio: the exclusive 97-facet Ashth Cut, a patented octagon-shape lab-grown diamond that maximizes brilliance and fire. This visionary cut powers 2000+ designs across 20+ categories, including lab-grown diamond rings, earrings, necklaces & pendants, bracelets & bangles, and initial & charm jewellery—for every occasion
India’s Strategic Transformation
Perhaps the most ambitious aspect of Kaivan’s vision is the repositioning of India. While the nation has long been the “world’s workshop” for cutting and polishing, Kaivan sees a future where India is the global design capital.
By leveraging its rich cultural heritage and artisanal expertise alongside the flexibility of lab-grown diamonds, India can lead global trends. However, this requires a shift toward a more organized, collaborative ecosystem that bridges the gap between growers, designers, and retailers to project a unified creative voice to the world.
Conclusion
Ultimately, Kaivan envisions a future where luxury is democratized through design and sanctified through ethics. The lab-grown diamond is the symbol of this transition—a bridge between heritage craftsmanship and a future-forward, responsible philosophy. For the industry, the challenge and the opportunity lie in embracing this new vocabulary: one where authenticity is the ultimate luxury.
JB Insights
Top 10 India’s Jewellery Traditions: Where Craft Becomes Identity
-By JewelBuzz
From Centuries-Old Techniques To Regional Artistry, These 10 Jewellery Traditions Reflect India’s Cultural Legacy, Craftsmanship, and Enduring Human Touch
India’s jewellery is far more than ornamentation—it is a reflection of identity, heritage, and regional storytelling. Across the country, every piece carries the imprint of its origin, shaped by local traditions, cultural influences, and generations of skilled artisans. From intricate silverwork to vibrant enamel detailing, these designs are deeply tied to the communities that create them.
What sets Indian jewellery apart is its deep-rooted connection to time and tradition. These crafts were not born in factories but evolved within homes and workshops, passed down through families and perfected over centuries. Each technique reflects patience, precision, and human touch, making every creation unique and meaningful.
In today’s fast-paced world of mass production and uniform design, these traditional jewellery forms stand as a reminder of authentic craftsmanship and enduring legacy. They are not just objects of beauty but living traditions, preserving stories of culture, survival, and artistic excellence that continue to define India’s diverse identity.
Top 10 Regional Jewellery Traditions
Silver Filigree, Cuttack (Odisha)
Delicate like lace, yet crafted entirely from silver, this art—known as Tarakasi—dates back to the 13th century. Artisans twist ultra-fine silver wires into intricate patterns.
The process requires immense precision, often taking days to complete a single piece. It is widely used in creating decorative items, bridal jewellery, and heritage collectibles.
Gulabi Meenakari, Varanasi (Uttar Pradesh)
Jewellery that appears hand-painted, known for its signature pink enamel work. The craft involves fusing metal oxides onto gold and silver at high temperatures. Its distinctive pastel hues set it apart from other meenakari styles in India. The craft flourished under royal patronage and remains closely associated with Varanasi’s artistic legacy.
Thewa, Pratapgarh (Rajasthan)
A unique technique where intricately carved gold sheets are fused onto coloured glass, often depicting royal hunts, folklore, and nature.
Each piece is handcrafted using age-old skills preserved within artisan families. The vibrant glass backgrounds—typically red, green, or blue—enhance its regal appeal.
Hupari Silver Jewellery, Kolhapur (Maharashtra)
In Hupari, jewellery-making is a family tradition. Known for durability and fine detailing, each piece reflects generational skill. The town is one of India’s largest hubs for handcrafted silver jewellery. Its artisans are known for blending traditional motifs with contemporary designs.
Karimnagar Silver Filigree (Telangana)
Distinct from Cuttack’s style, this form features bolder motifs like peacocks, swans, and geometric patterns, giving it a unique identity.
The craft often produces statement pieces and decorative artefacts. It has been recognised for its craftsmanship and continues to support local artisan communities.
Hyderabad Lac Bangles (Telangana)
Crafted using heated lac, these bangles are hand-moulded and studded with stones, making them vibrant and deeply tied to bridal traditions.
They are especially popular during weddings and festive occasions. The process involves multiple stages of heating, shaping, and embellishment by skilled craftsmen.
Axomiya Gohona (Assam)
Traditional Assamese jewellery made primarily in gold, featuring motifs like junbiri (crescent moon), dholbiri, and lokaparo, is inspired by nature and Ahom-era royalty.
These pieces are often worn during festivals like Bihu and weddings. The bold designs reflect Assam’s rich cultural symbolism and heritage.
Temple Jewellery of Nagercoil (Tamil Nadu)
Originally designed for temple idols, now worn by Bharatanatyam dancers and brides, often depicting gods, goddesses, and temple architecture.
Crafted mainly in gold, these pieces are known for their antique finish and intricate carvings. They remain an essential part of South Indian bridal trousseaus.
Agates of Cambay (Gujarat)
Crafted in Khambhat, artisans heat, dye, and polish agate stones into beads and jewellery. This is a 4,000-year-old craft with global appeal.
Khambhat has been a historic trading centre for agates since ancient times. The finished stones are exported worldwide for use in jewellery and decorative items.
Odisha Brass & Bell Metal Tribal Jewellery
Created using age-old casting techniques, molten metal is hand-poured into moulds to form bold, earthy ornaments that reflect tribal identity and rituals.
These pieces are deeply symbolic, often representing social status and community traditions. The raw, rustic aesthetic makes them distinct from mainstream jewellery styles.
These jewellery traditions are more than decorative forms—they are living expressions of India’s cultural identity and craftsmanship. Each piece carries the legacy of its region, shaped by generations of artisans, local narratives, and time-honoured techniques.
As the industry evolves, the value of these traditions lies in their authenticity, individuality, and human touch—qualities that cannot be replicated by mass production. Preserving them is not just about sustaining craft, but about protecting heritage and supporting artisan communities.
In celebrating these traditions, we don’t just admire their beauty—we honour the stories, skills, and identities that continue to define India’s jewellery landscape.
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JewelBuzz is Asia’s First Digital Jewellery Media & India’s No.1 B2B Jewellery Magazine, published by AM Media House. Since 2016, we’ve been the trusted source for jewellery news, market trends, trade insights, exhibitions, podcasts, and brand stories, connecting jewellers, retailers, and industry professionals worldwide.