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Designer Focus

 My philosophy revolves around creating pieces that blend timeless elegance with modern flair.I believe in craftsmanship that reflects meticulous attention to detail, ensuring each piece not only enhances beauty, but also tells a unique story: Varda Goenka

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Varda Goenka is a distinguished entrepreneur and jewellery designer, leading her brand, VARDA GOENKA—Fine Jewels by DIAGOLD, with creativity and leadership. Varda has become a leading name in the jewellery industry, known for her exquisite designs and entrepreneurial excellence. She founded DIAGOLD to bring her artistic vision to life, offering unique and luxurious jewellery. Varda Goenka believes in creating designs that have a timeless elegance with a modern flair; each telling a unique story. She spoke to JEWELBUZZ on her design philosophy, balancing creativity and commerce, the Indian jewellery design scenario … and more.

Take us through your journey into jewellery designing: your inspiration, your beginnings, and your evolution into a renowned designer. 

I began my career as a small-scale, self-taught designer, mainly catering to friends and family. As I ventured further into the field, I pursued credentials and enrolled in courses in Mumbai, followed by completing my GIA certification in New York. This marked the beginning of my journey. 

Subsequently, I opened a modest store at Metro Plaza, Kolkata, which gained rapid popularity due to its distinctive designs. Encouraged by this success, I expanded by opening the Lee Road corporate store and another outlet at City Centre, Kolkata, and later ventured into Mumbai as well. 

What is your design philosophy? 

As a jewellery designer, my philosophy revolves around creating pieces that blend timeless elegance with modern flair. I believe in craftsmanship that reflects meticulous attention to detail, ensuring each piece not only enhances beauty but also tells a unique story. Sustainability and ethical sourcing are integral to my practice, ensuring that every creation resonates with both aesthetic appeal and responsible practices. Innovation plays a crucial role, allowing me to push boundaries while respecting the rich traditions of jewellery craftsmanship. Ultimately, my goal is to craft pieces that inspire and delight, becoming cherished symbols of personal style and expression for the wearer. 

What are your favourite metals, stones and other materials? Take us through your unique, Out of the box jewellery pieces/ collections

I favour white and rose gold for their elegance and versatility. Diamonds and coloured gemstones like sapphires, emeralds, and rubies are my go-to for their brilliance and vibrant hues. I also incorporate pearls and unconventional materials such as enamel and sustainable alternatives. 

One of my standout collections blends traditional jewellery techniques with contemporary architecture, featuring bold geometric shapes and unexpected material combinations. Another focuses on wearable art, with each piece crafted as a miniature sculpture that blurs the line between jewellery and art, inviting personal expression through unique designs. 

As an entrepreneur, what are the lessons you have learnt in establishing a business, strategy for growth, brand positioning etc. How does one balance creativity with commercial viability and changing consumer preferences? 

As a jeweller and entrepreneur, I’ve learned that quality craftsmanship and unique designs are essential for standing out in the competitive market. Balancing creativity with commercial viability involves staying attuned to trends while maintaining a timeless appeal in my creations. Exceptional customer experience and effective branding are crucial for building trust and loyalty. Financial prudence, strong relationships with stakeholders, and a robust digital presence have been key to scaling my business. Continuous learning and a passion for innovation drive me to adapt to changing consumer preferences and industry dynamics, ensuring sustained growth and success in the jewellery industry. 

Your comments on the current jewellery designing segment in India? What is the standing and brand positioning of India’s jewellery designers on the global stage?  After Make in India, are we ready for Design in India?

The jewellery designing segment in India is flourishing with a blend of traditional craftsmanship and modern aesthetics, gaining global recognition. Indian designers are celebrated for their intricate designs and cultural richness, making significant strides on the international stage. With the Make in India initiative promoting local manufacturing, there’s now a growing focus on Design in India, signalling a shift towards creative innovation and design leadership. As India invests more in design education and infrastructure, its jewellery designers are poised to strengthen their global presence through creativity, craftsmanship, and cultural authenticity.

What is the potential for Indian designers to collaborate with global brands and top international designers?

Indian jewellery designers have immense potential to collaborate with global brands and top international designers. They bring a unique blend of traditional craftsmanship, innovative designs, and a rich cultural heritage that appeals to global audiences. Collaborations offer opportunities to fuse Indian aesthetic sensibilities with international trends, creating distinctive and marketable collections. Moreover, such partnerships can leverage India’s skilled artisans and diverse gemstone resources, enhancing the appeal of luxury and high-end jewellery worldwide. As Indian designers continue to gain recognition for their creativity and craftsmanship, collaborations serve as platforms to showcase their talent on a global scale, enriching the global jewellery landscape with their unique perspectives. 

What’s your message for aspiring, as well as practicing, jewellery designers? 

My message to aspiring and practicing jewellery designers is to stay passionate, curious, and committed to honing your craft. Continuously seek inspiration from diverse sources – whether cultural heritage, nature, or contemporary trends – and infuse your designs with creativity and innovation. Embrace learning opportunities, from technical skills to business acumen, to navigate the competitive industry landscape effectively. Build a strong brand identity that reflects your unique style and values, and prioritize quality and craftsmanship in every piece you create. Stay connected with the industry, collaborate with peers, and embrace feedback to continually refine your skills and evolve as a designer. Above all, believe in your vision and persevere through challenges, knowing that dedication and authenticity will ultimately define your success in the dynamic world of jewellery design. 

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Designer Focus

The heart of Nishani will always be rooted in individuality, innovation, and human connection

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Nishani emerged from the mother-daughter partnership between Suhani Garg and jeweler Debi Nishimura, addressing gaps in Indian market for modern, active women. Speaking to JewelBuzz, Suhani emphasizes that the  brand champions modular, versatile designs enabling self-expression through customizable pieces. She underscores the fact that her design philosophy centers on jewellery as an intimate storytelling tool, creating dynamic accessories that adapt to women’s changing lifestyles and identities.

Nishani: A reflection of my journey

Tell us about the dynamic mother-daughter partnership behind Nishani. How did this collaboration come about, and what unique perspectives does each of you bring to the brand?

Nishani is deeply personal to me, it’s not just a brand, it’s a reflection of my journey and a shared dream with my mother, Debi Nishimura. The idea was born out of countless conversations between us, blending my passion for contemporary fashion and branding with her decades of experience in jewellery production and craftsmanship.

Our partnership is what gives Nishani its soul. While I bring in insights from my time at NYU Stern and exposure to New York’s fast-paced fashion world, my mother grounds our work with her deep understanding of quality, structure, and timeless design. She ensures that each piece stands up to wear and time, and I push the boundary of what jewellery can be. Together, we complement each other beautifully; creativity meets precision, and vision meets execution.

What inspired the creation of Nishani, and how does your brand challenge conventional approaches to jewellery design?
While studying and working in New York, I noticed a significant gap in the Indian jewellery market—there was little on offer for modern, active women who wanted jewellery that could adapt to their changing lifestyles. Most options felt static or overly traditional.

Nishani was born out of that gap. Our brand challenges the norm by rethinking jewellery as a tool for self-expression, versatile, modular, and made for movement. We’re not just selling products; we’re enabling creativity. Our pieces are designed to be customized, mixed, and matched to reflect every woman’s evolving identity. That level of personalization is still rare in the Indian market, and that’s where we’ve carved our niche.

 Design Philosophy & Identity

How do you view jewellery as a reflection of personal identity? Why is self-expression through style particularly important in today’s world?
Jewellery is one of the most intimate forms of expression, it’s often the last thing you put on before you walk out the door, and it holds emotional, aesthetic, and cultural significance. I believe personal style is a quiet form of storytelling, and jewellery allows us to do that with grace and intention.

In a world that’s constantly changing, where identities are fluid and multi-dimensional, self-expression becomes essential. It’s empowering. With Nishani, we want every woman to feel like her jewellery mirrors her mood, her day, her energy, whether she’s heading to a meeting, a vacation, or a quiet moment with herself.

Walk us through your design philosophy. How do you ensure each piece is as dynamic and versatile as the women who wear them?
Our design philosophy starts with real women, their routines, needs, and sense of beauty. Each collection is built around modularity and ease. For example, our Natsumi collection, launched in the summer, uses stones in shades of blue, green, and lilac—perfect for lightweight, seasonal versatility.

We keep the designs minimal yet striking, making them wearable across contexts. Whether you’re styling a statement look or adding a pop of color to something neutral, our pieces are designed to blend in or stand out depending on how you wear them.

Product Innovation & Development

Modular design forms the core of Nishani’s offering. Can you take us through the concept development, design process, and product evolution of this approach?
Modularity came from a simple realization: women today need jewellery that does more. I didn’t want pieces that sat in a box waiting for a special occasion. I wanted pieces that could evolve with your day.

From concept to production, we work closely with design engineers and craftspeople to ensure that the pieces can be interlocked, layered, or transformed without compromising on quality. We’ve developed a system where even the smallest components clasps, chains, stones are created with flexibility in mind. This process has been refined over time with feedback from real users, and we continue to evolve it.

How do you empower customers to style Nishani jewellery in their own unique way? What specific design elements and features enable your pieces to adapt across different styles and occasions?
We build for customization. Each piece from Nishani can be styled in multiple ways, necklaces that become bracelets, earrings that change shape with add-ons, and layers that can be shortened or extended. We use lightweight materials and timeless aesthetics to make that fluidity possible.

We also provide guidance through our social channels, showing real-life styling hacks and encouraging users to experiment. Our aim is not to dictate fashion but to enable creativity.

Market Insights & Consumer Behavior

What consumer trends and mindsets have you observed, particularly among Gen Z and millennial customers? How do these insights shape your brand strategy?
Today’s consumers are incredibly value-driven. They want authenticity, transparency, and versatility and they care just as much about how something is made as they do about how it looks. Gen Z and millennials are particularly drawn to brands that allow them to co-create and personalize.

That’s why we’ve invested so much in customization and storytelling. Our collections are built to evolve, not just with trends, but with the wearer’s life. Sustainability, versatility, and emotional resonance are key pillars in our strategy because that’s what our customers want.

How do you balance creative innovation with commercial viability? What’s your approach to maintaining artistic integrity while ensuring profitability?
It’s always a dance between vision and viability. But I think both can co-exist. Our modular format is not only creative it’s also scalable. It allows us to launch new styles without overproducing, reducing waste while keeping the brand fresh.

We prototype extensively, listen to customer feedback, and keep our production agile. This helps us stay ahead without compromising on quality or diluting our creative DNA.

 

Entrepreneurial Journey

What challenges did you encounter as young female entrepreneurs entering the luxury jewellery market? What key lessons have shaped your journey?
One of the biggest challenges was being taken seriously. As a young woman entering a legacy-driven industry, I often had to prove myself twice: first as a creative and then as a business leader. It helped to have my mother by my side, who brought credibility and depth from the start.

Another challenge was educating the market. Modular jewellery was a new concept, so we had to build awareness and trust from scratch. The key lesson? Stay resilient, listen more than you speak, and surround yourself with people who challenge you.

Looking ahead, what are your aspirations for Nishani? How do you plan to continue pushing boundaries in design and innovation while scaling the brand?
We officially launched Nishani Studio in November 2024, and the response has been both humbling and motivating. Going forward, I see Nishani becoming more than a brand—it will be a movement.

We want to expand into international markets, deepen our tech capabilities for customization, and continue releasing collections that reflect our ethos of creative empowerment. But no matter how much we scale, the heart of Nishani will always be rooted in individuality, innovation, and human connection.

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JewelBuzz is Asia’s First Digital Jewellery Media & India’s No.1 B2B Jewellery Magazine, published by AM Media House. Since 2016, we’ve been the trusted source for jewellery news, market trends, trade insights, exhibitions, podcasts, and brand stories, connecting jewellers, retailers, and industry professionals worldwide.

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