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Designer Focus

 My philosophy revolves around creating pieces that blend timeless elegance with modern flair.I believe in craftsmanship that reflects meticulous attention to detail, ensuring each piece not only enhances beauty, but also tells a unique story: Varda Goenka

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Varda Goenka is a distinguished entrepreneur and jewellery designer, leading her brand, VARDA GOENKA—Fine Jewels by DIAGOLD, with creativity and leadership. Varda has become a leading name in the jewellery industry, known for her exquisite designs and entrepreneurial excellence. She founded DIAGOLD to bring her artistic vision to life, offering unique and luxurious jewellery. Varda Goenka believes in creating designs that have a timeless elegance with a modern flair; each telling a unique story. She spoke to JEWELBUZZ on her design philosophy, balancing creativity and commerce, the Indian jewellery design scenario … and more.

Take us through your journey into jewellery designing: your inspiration, your beginnings, and your evolution into a renowned designer. 

I began my career as a small-scale, self-taught designer, mainly catering to friends and family. As I ventured further into the field, I pursued credentials and enrolled in courses in Mumbai, followed by completing my GIA certification in New York. This marked the beginning of my journey. 

Subsequently, I opened a modest store at Metro Plaza, Kolkata, which gained rapid popularity due to its distinctive designs. Encouraged by this success, I expanded by opening the Lee Road corporate store and another outlet at City Centre, Kolkata, and later ventured into Mumbai as well. 

What is your design philosophy? 

As a jewellery designer, my philosophy revolves around creating pieces that blend timeless elegance with modern flair. I believe in craftsmanship that reflects meticulous attention to detail, ensuring each piece not only enhances beauty but also tells a unique story. Sustainability and ethical sourcing are integral to my practice, ensuring that every creation resonates with both aesthetic appeal and responsible practices. Innovation plays a crucial role, allowing me to push boundaries while respecting the rich traditions of jewellery craftsmanship. Ultimately, my goal is to craft pieces that inspire and delight, becoming cherished symbols of personal style and expression for the wearer. 

What are your favourite metals, stones and other materials? Take us through your unique, Out of the box jewellery pieces/ collections

I favour white and rose gold for their elegance and versatility. Diamonds and coloured gemstones like sapphires, emeralds, and rubies are my go-to for their brilliance and vibrant hues. I also incorporate pearls and unconventional materials such as enamel and sustainable alternatives. 

One of my standout collections blends traditional jewellery techniques with contemporary architecture, featuring bold geometric shapes and unexpected material combinations. Another focuses on wearable art, with each piece crafted as a miniature sculpture that blurs the line between jewellery and art, inviting personal expression through unique designs. 

As an entrepreneur, what are the lessons you have learnt in establishing a business, strategy for growth, brand positioning etc. How does one balance creativity with commercial viability and changing consumer preferences? 

As a jeweller and entrepreneur, I’ve learned that quality craftsmanship and unique designs are essential for standing out in the competitive market. Balancing creativity with commercial viability involves staying attuned to trends while maintaining a timeless appeal in my creations. Exceptional customer experience and effective branding are crucial for building trust and loyalty. Financial prudence, strong relationships with stakeholders, and a robust digital presence have been key to scaling my business. Continuous learning and a passion for innovation drive me to adapt to changing consumer preferences and industry dynamics, ensuring sustained growth and success in the jewellery industry. 

Your comments on the current jewellery designing segment in India? What is the standing and brand positioning of India’s jewellery designers on the global stage?  After Make in India, are we ready for Design in India?

The jewellery designing segment in India is flourishing with a blend of traditional craftsmanship and modern aesthetics, gaining global recognition. Indian designers are celebrated for their intricate designs and cultural richness, making significant strides on the international stage. With the Make in India initiative promoting local manufacturing, there’s now a growing focus on Design in India, signalling a shift towards creative innovation and design leadership. As India invests more in design education and infrastructure, its jewellery designers are poised to strengthen their global presence through creativity, craftsmanship, and cultural authenticity.

What is the potential for Indian designers to collaborate with global brands and top international designers?

Indian jewellery designers have immense potential to collaborate with global brands and top international designers. They bring a unique blend of traditional craftsmanship, innovative designs, and a rich cultural heritage that appeals to global audiences. Collaborations offer opportunities to fuse Indian aesthetic sensibilities with international trends, creating distinctive and marketable collections. Moreover, such partnerships can leverage India’s skilled artisans and diverse gemstone resources, enhancing the appeal of luxury and high-end jewellery worldwide. As Indian designers continue to gain recognition for their creativity and craftsmanship, collaborations serve as platforms to showcase their talent on a global scale, enriching the global jewellery landscape with their unique perspectives. 

What’s your message for aspiring, as well as practicing, jewellery designers? 

My message to aspiring and practicing jewellery designers is to stay passionate, curious, and committed to honing your craft. Continuously seek inspiration from diverse sources – whether cultural heritage, nature, or contemporary trends – and infuse your designs with creativity and innovation. Embrace learning opportunities, from technical skills to business acumen, to navigate the competitive industry landscape effectively. Build a strong brand identity that reflects your unique style and values, and prioritize quality and craftsmanship in every piece you create. Stay connected with the industry, collaborate with peers, and embrace feedback to continually refine your skills and evolve as a designer. Above all, believe in your vision and persevere through challenges, knowing that dedication and authenticity will ultimately define your success in the dynamic world of jewellery design. 

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Designer Focus

Valani Atelier:Inspired by the quiet order of nature, symmetry of architecture and the emotional  resonance of human stories.

Heena Shah, Valani Atelier underscores how her design is at the  intersection of art, engineering, and emotion.

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Speaking to JewelBuzz she passionately explains that she is  inspired by the quiet order of nature, the symmetry of architecture, and the emotional  resonance of human stories.She talks of her design philosophy, creative process, commercial viability and more

How would you describe the core design philosophy of Valani Atelier? 

At Valani Atelier, we design at the intersection of art, engineering, and emotion. Guided by  the Golden Ratio, each piece is a study in s, ymmetry and proportion—where precision  meets poetry. My background in industrial engineering shapes our creative process,  ensuring every curve and contour achieves both structural integrity and aesthetic harmony.  Inspired by nature’s geometry and modern architecture, our jewelry balances innovation  with timelessness. We believe true luxury lies in creating beauty that endures—pieces that  resonate not just in the moment, but for generations to come. 

What inspires your creations — art, architecture, nature, or personal  emotion? 

I’m inspired by the quiet order of nature, the symmetry of architecture, and the emotional  resonance of human stories. Each Valani Atelier creation begins with a fascination for  proportion and harmony—often guided by the Golden Ratio—to reveal beauty through  balance. My engineering background shapes how I translate this structure into design,  where mathematics meets emotion and precision becomes poetry. 

Equally, I’m inspired by the artisans who bring these visions to life. Their craftsmanship  fuels my commitment to social innovation—using design to preserve heritage skills, create  equitable value chains, and prove that beauty and impact can coexist by design. 

How do you balance traditional craftsmanship with contemporary  aesthetics in your designs? 

I strive to bridge the gap between heritage and innovation in my jewelry designs. Rooted in  traditional craftsmanship, my work showcases meticulous stone setting, intricate  detailing, and time-honored techniques that reflect the legacy of fine jewelry making. Each  piece is crafted with precision, honoring the artisanal skills that define luxury. At the same  time, I aim to infuse my creations with a bold, contemporary spirit. My designs feature  striking gemstone arrangements, unexpected silhouettes, and organic forms that speak to  modern sensibilities. Whether it’s a sculptural emerald ring or a floral-inspired ruby piece, I  enjoy reimagining classic motifs through a fresh, artistic lens—creating jewelry that feels  both timeless and current. My work is a celebration of duality: the elegance of tradition and  the excitement of innovation, brought together in pieces that resonate with today’s  confident, expressive wearer.

How has your design approach evolved since founding Valani Atelier? 

Since founding Valani Atelier, my design approach has evolved from classic elegance to a  more expressive and contemporary aesthetic. Early pieces focused on symmetry,  traditional prong settings, and timeless gemstone combinations like emeralds and  diamonds. Over time, I’ve embraced bolder silhouettes, asymmetrical compositions, and  nature-inspired forms. Color has become more adventurous, and the interplay between  structure and softness is more pronounced. While my commitment to craftsmanship  remains unwavering, this evolution reflects a journey—from honoring tradition to redefining  it—crafting jewelry that speaks to modern individuality while preserving the soul of  timeless artistry. 

Could you walk us through your creative process—from concept sketch  to final piece? 

Each jewelry piece I create begins as a spark of inspiration—sometimes it’s the gentle  curve of a leaf, the interplay of light and shadow in a cityscape, or a fleeting emotion that  lingers in my mind. I start by sketching these ideas by hand, letting the lines and shapes  evolve naturally on paper. As I select gemstones, I place them directly onto my sketches,  experimenting with color and balance until the composition feels just right. The process is  tactile and intuitive, blending artistry with technical precision as I refine every detail to  ensure the design is both beautiful and wearable. Once the vision is clear, I work with  skilled artisans to bring the piece to life, translating my sketches into prototypes and  carefully setting each stone by hand. The final step is always a moment of quiet  satisfaction—polishing, inspecting, and perfecting the piece so it can be worn as a true  expression of individuality and elegance. 

What gemstones are you personally drawn to, and why? Do you have a  favorite metal to work with? 

I am deeply drawn to the expressive beauty of emeralds and rubies. These gemstones are  not only rich in color and symbolism but also offer a timeless elegance that aligns with my  design philosophy. Emeralds evoke a sense of renewal and sophistication, while rubies  bring warmth and passion. My favorite metal to work with is white gold, chosen for its  clean, luminous finish and ability to enhance the brilliance of colored gemstones. It  provides a modern yet classic foundation, allowing my designs to feel both luxurious and  wearable.

How do you ensure that each design retains a sense of individuality while  maintaining the brand’s signature style? 

For me, every design begins with a unique inspiration—sometimes it’s the character of a  gemstone, a fleeting moment in nature, or a personal memory. I strive to let each piece  have its own voice, while still reflecting the signature elegance and expressive forms that  define Valani Atelier. By collaborating closely with artisans and refining every detail, I  ensure that individuality shines through, yet each creation remains unmistakably part of my  brand’s story. 

Is there a particular piece or collection that you feel best embodies the  essence of Valani Atelier? 

The Andromeda collection. My fascination for celestial formations began while star gazing  at night with my young son. Peering through a tiny lens, we witnessed how newly formed  star clusters lay in the center of a nebulae. The Andromeda series attempts to capture a  glimpse of the galaxy by aligning magnificent center gemstones to fancy cut trillions and  brilliant rounds. 

In a market increasingly driven by trends, how do you ensure commercial  viability without compromising artistry? 

I design with longevity in mind, favoring classic silhouettes and enduring materials like  emeralds, rubies, and gold. Yet, I stay attuned to evolving tastes by incorporating subtle  trend-forward elements, such as modern cuts, asymmetry, or unexpected color pairings.  By offering limited-edition collections and custom design services, I preserve artistic  freedom while meeting market demand. This model allows me to experiment creatively  without overproducing or diluting my brand identity. 

What challenges do independent jewelry designers face when scaling a  brand globally? 

Scaling a jewelry brand globally brings unique challenges, especially when it comes to  adapting designs for different cultures. For example, when I introduced the Andromeda  collection in Texas, I noticed that clients were drawn to pieces with bold, vibrant gemstones  and larger, statement settings—reflecting the region’s love for expressive style and  individuality. This experience taught me the importance of listening to local preferences  and being flexible with my designs, while still staying true to the core identity of Valani  Atelier. Balancing universal appeal with local relevance is an ongoing journey, but it’s also  what makes global expansion so rewarding.

How do you see the role of storytelling and branding in attracting today’s  luxury consumer? 

Today’s luxury consumer, especially Gen Z, is drawn to authenticity, individuality, and  sustainability. I embrace this shift by sharing the real journey behind each piece—from my  sketches to the final creation. By highlighting my creative process, ethical sourcing, and  artisan craftsmanship, I build trust and emotional connection with younger audiences. I  meet them where they are—online—through visually rich storytelling, behind-the-scenes  content, and interactive experiences that make the brand both aspirational and accessible. 

Have you noticed a shift in what younger clients look for in fine jewellery  compared to older generations? 

Younger clients seek versatility, meaning, and design-forward pieces that reflect their  identity, while older generations often prioritize heritage, investment value, and classic  elegance. I strive to bridge these preferences by offering pieces that are artistically timeless  yet emotionally current, appealing across generations while staying true to my brand’s  DNA. 

Closing remarks and message to young jewelry designers 

Your creativity is your compass. In a world full of trends and noise, stay rooted in your  vision. Let your designs speak not just through beauty, but through the stories you tell, the  materials you choose, and the values you uphold. Remember: every sketch is a seed, every  gemstone a voice, and every finished piece a reflection of your soul. Keep designing with  intention, and the world will listen.

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JewelBuzz is Asia’s First Digital Jewellery Media & India’s No.1 B2B Jewellery Magazine, published by AM Media House. Since 2016, we’ve been the trusted source for jewellery news, market trends, trade insights, exhibitions, podcasts, and brand stories, connecting jewellers, retailers, and industry professionals worldwide.

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