Varda Goenka is a distinguished entrepreneur and jewellery designer, leading her brand, VARDA GOENKA—Fine Jewels by DIAGOLD, with creativity and leadership. Varda has become a leading name in the jewellery industry, known for her exquisite designs and entrepreneurial excellence. She founded DIAGOLD to bring her artistic vision to life, offering unique and luxurious jewellery. Varda Goenka believes in creating designs that have a timeless elegance with a modern flair; each telling a unique story. She spoke to JEWELBUZZ on her design philosophy, balancing creativity and commerce, the Indian jewellery design scenario … and more.

Take us through your journey into jewellery designing: your inspiration, your beginnings, and your evolution into a renowned designer. 

I began my career as a small-scale, self-taught designer, mainly catering to friends and family. As I ventured further into the field, I pursued credentials and enrolled in courses in Mumbai, followed by completing my GIA certification in New York. This marked the beginning of my journey. 

Subsequently, I opened a modest store at Metro Plaza, Kolkata, which gained rapid popularity due to its distinctive designs. Encouraged by this success, I expanded by opening the Lee Road corporate store and another outlet at City Centre, Kolkata, and later ventured into Mumbai as well. 

What is your design philosophy? 

As a jewellery designer, my philosophy revolves around creating pieces that blend timeless elegance with modern flair. I believe in craftsmanship that reflects meticulous attention to detail, ensuring each piece not only enhances beauty but also tells a unique story. Sustainability and ethical sourcing are integral to my practice, ensuring that every creation resonates with both aesthetic appeal and responsible practices. Innovation plays a crucial role, allowing me to push boundaries while respecting the rich traditions of jewellery craftsmanship. Ultimately, my goal is to craft pieces that inspire and delight, becoming cherished symbols of personal style and expression for the wearer. 

What are your favourite metals, stones and other materials? Take us through your unique, Out of the box jewellery pieces/ collections. 

I favour white and rose gold for their elegance and versatility. Diamonds and coloured gemstones like sapphires, emeralds, and rubies are my go-to for their brilliance and vibrant hues. I also incorporate pearls and unconventional materials such as enamel and sustainable alternatives. 

One of my standout collections blends traditional jewellery techniques with contemporary architecture, featuring bold geometric shapes and unexpected material combinations. Another focuses on wearable art, with each piece crafted as a miniature sculpture that blurs the line between jewellery and art, inviting personal expression through unique designs. 

As an entrepreneur, what are the lessons you have learnt in establishing a business, strategy for growth, brand positioning etc. How does one balance creativity with commercial viability and changing consumer preferences? 

As a jeweller and entrepreneur, I’ve learned that quality craftsmanship and unique designs are essential for standing out in the competitive market. Balancing creativity with commercial viability involves staying attuned to trends while maintaining a timeless appeal in my creations. Exceptional customer experience and effective branding are crucial for building trust and loyalty. Financial prudence, strong relationships with stakeholders, and a robust digital presence have been key to scaling my business. Continuous learning and a passion for innovation drive me to adapt to changing consumer preferences and industry dynamics, ensuring sustained growth and success in the jewellery industry. 

Your comments on the current jewellery designing segment in India? What is the standing and brand positioning of India’s jewellery designers on the global stage?  After Make in India, are we ready for Design in India?

The jewellery designing segment in India is flourishing with a blend of traditional craftsmanship and modern aesthetics, gaining global recognition. Indian designers are celebrated for their intricate designs and cultural richness, making significant strides on the international stage. With the Make in India initiative promoting local manufacturing, there’s now a growing focus on Design in India, signalling a shift towards creative innovation and design leadership. As India invests more in design education and infrastructure, its jewellery designers are poised to strengthen their global presence through creativity, craftsmanship, and cultural authenticity.

What is the potential for Indian designers to collaborate with global brands and top international designers?

Indian jewellery designers have immense potential to collaborate with global brands and top international designers. They bring a unique blend of traditional craftsmanship, innovative designs, and a rich cultural heritage that appeals to global audiences. Collaborations offer opportunities to fuse Indian aesthetic sensibilities with international trends, creating distinctive and marketable collections. Moreover, such partnerships can leverage India’s skilled artisans and diverse gemstone resources, enhancing the appeal of luxury and high-end jewellery worldwide. As Indian designers continue to gain recognition for their creativity and craftsmanship, collaborations serve as platforms to showcase their talent on a global scale, enriching the global jewellery landscape with their unique perspectives. 

What’s your message for aspiring, as well as practicing, jewellery designers? 

My message to aspiring and practicing jewellery designers is to stay passionate, curious, and committed to honing your craft. Continuously seek inspiration from diverse sources – whether cultural heritage, nature, or contemporary trends – and infuse your designs with creativity and innovation. Embrace learning opportunities, from technical skills to business acumen, to navigate the competitive industry landscape effectively. Build a strong brand identity that reflects your unique style and values, and prioritize quality and craftsmanship in every piece you create. Stay connected with the industry, collaborate with peers, and embrace feedback to continually refine your skills and evolve as a designer. Above all, believe in your vision and persevere through challenges, knowing that dedication and authenticity will ultimately define your success in the dynamic world of jewellery design.