Designer Focus
My philosophy revolves around creating pieces that blend timeless elegance with modern flair.I believe in craftsmanship that reflects meticulous attention to detail, ensuring each piece not only enhances beauty, but also tells a unique story: Varda Goenka

Varda Goenka is a distinguished entrepreneur and jewellery designer, leading her brand, VARDA GOENKA—Fine Jewels by DIAGOLD, with creativity and leadership. Varda has become a leading name in the jewellery industry, known for her exquisite designs and entrepreneurial excellence. She founded DIAGOLD to bring her artistic vision to life, offering unique and luxurious jewellery. Varda Goenka believes in creating designs that have a timeless elegance with a modern flair; each telling a unique story. She spoke to JEWELBUZZ on her design philosophy, balancing creativity and commerce, the Indian jewellery design scenario … and more.


Take us through your journey into jewellery designing: your inspiration, your beginnings, and your evolution into a renowned designer.
I began my career as a small-scale, self-taught designer, mainly catering to friends and family. As I ventured further into the field, I pursued credentials and enrolled in courses in Mumbai, followed by completing my GIA certification in New York. This marked the beginning of my journey.
Subsequently, I opened a modest store at Metro Plaza, Kolkata, which gained rapid popularity due to its distinctive designs. Encouraged by this success, I expanded by opening the Lee Road corporate store and another outlet at City Centre, Kolkata, and later ventured into Mumbai as well.


What is your design philosophy?
As a jewellery designer, my philosophy revolves around creating pieces that blend timeless elegance with modern flair. I believe in craftsmanship that reflects meticulous attention to detail, ensuring each piece not only enhances beauty but also tells a unique story. Sustainability and ethical sourcing are integral to my practice, ensuring that every creation resonates with both aesthetic appeal and responsible practices. Innovation plays a crucial role, allowing me to push boundaries while respecting the rich traditions of jewellery craftsmanship. Ultimately, my goal is to craft pieces that inspire and delight, becoming cherished symbols of personal style and expression for the wearer.
What are your favourite metals, stones and other materials? Take us through your unique, Out of the box jewellery pieces/ collections.
I favour white and rose gold for their elegance and versatility. Diamonds and coloured gemstones like sapphires, emeralds, and rubies are my go-to for their brilliance and vibrant hues. I also incorporate pearls and unconventional materials such as enamel and sustainable alternatives.
One of my standout collections blends traditional jewellery techniques with contemporary architecture, featuring bold geometric shapes and unexpected material combinations. Another focuses on wearable art, with each piece crafted as a miniature sculpture that blurs the line between jewellery and art, inviting personal expression through unique designs.


As an entrepreneur, what are the lessons you have learnt in establishing a business, strategy for growth, brand positioning etc. How does one balance creativity with commercial viability and changing consumer preferences?
As a jeweller and entrepreneur, I’ve learned that quality craftsmanship and unique designs are essential for standing out in the competitive market. Balancing creativity with commercial viability involves staying attuned to trends while maintaining a timeless appeal in my creations. Exceptional customer experience and effective branding are crucial for building trust and loyalty. Financial prudence, strong relationships with stakeholders, and a robust digital presence have been key to scaling my business. Continuous learning and a passion for innovation drive me to adapt to changing consumer preferences and industry dynamics, ensuring sustained growth and success in the jewellery industry.
Your comments on the current jewellery designing segment in India? What is the standing and brand positioning of India’s jewellery designers on the global stage? After Make in India, are we ready for Design in India?
The jewellery designing segment in India is flourishing with a blend of traditional craftsmanship and modern aesthetics, gaining global recognition. Indian designers are celebrated for their intricate designs and cultural richness, making significant strides on the international stage. With the Make in India initiative promoting local manufacturing, there’s now a growing focus on Design in India, signalling a shift towards creative innovation and design leadership. As India invests more in design education and infrastructure, its jewellery designers are poised to strengthen their global presence through creativity, craftsmanship, and cultural authenticity.


What is the potential for Indian designers to collaborate with global brands and top international designers?
Indian jewellery designers have immense potential to collaborate with global brands and top international designers. They bring a unique blend of traditional craftsmanship, innovative designs, and a rich cultural heritage that appeals to global audiences. Collaborations offer opportunities to fuse Indian aesthetic sensibilities with international trends, creating distinctive and marketable collections. Moreover, such partnerships can leverage India’s skilled artisans and diverse gemstone resources, enhancing the appeal of luxury and high-end jewellery worldwide. As Indian designers continue to gain recognition for their creativity and craftsmanship, collaborations serve as platforms to showcase their talent on a global scale, enriching the global jewellery landscape with their unique perspectives.
What’s your message for aspiring, as well as practicing, jewellery designers?
My message to aspiring and practicing jewellery designers is to stay passionate, curious, and committed to honing your craft. Continuously seek inspiration from diverse sources – whether cultural heritage, nature, or contemporary trends – and infuse your designs with creativity and innovation. Embrace learning opportunities, from technical skills to business acumen, to navigate the competitive industry landscape effectively. Build a strong brand identity that reflects your unique style and values, and prioritize quality and craftsmanship in every piece you create. Stay connected with the industry, collaborate with peers, and embrace feedback to continually refine your skills and evolve as a designer. Above all, believe in your vision and persevere through challenges, knowing that dedication and authenticity will ultimately define your success in the dynamic world of jewellery design.

Designer Focus
Farah Khan’s designs are a celebration of individuality, strength and spirit

Farah Khan, Founder of the eponymous atelier Farah Khan believes jewellery is more than adornment—it’s a powerful expression of identity and emotion. Her design philosophy blends traditional Indian craftsmanship with contemporary aesthetics to create pieces that are timeless, bold, and meaningful. Each creation tells a unique story, inspired by heritage, nature, or imagination. Farah Khan speaking with JewelBuzz said that with a fearless yet harmonious approach to color, scale, and materials, her designs celebrate individuality , strength and spirit. They aren’t just accessories—they are deeply personal, soulful expressions of authenticity.


1. Every masterpiece has a story. Let’s go back to where it all began for you. What inspired you to step into the world of jewellery design?
My journey into jewellery design wasn’t planned—it was a beautiful accident. I was always drawn to art, architecture, and the finer details of beauty that most people overlook. The sparkle of a gem, the fluidity of gold, and the ability to tell a story through ornamentation fascinated me. I studied at the Gemological Institute of America in Santa Monica, and what began as a curiosity quickly turned into a lifelong passion. Jewellery gave me a medium to express myself—boldly, intricately, unapologetically.


2. What is your design philosophy, and how does it influence the pieces you create?
I believe that jewellery is not just about adornment; it’s about identity. My design philosophy centers around emotion, meaning, and craftsmanship. Each piece must tell a story—whether it’s rooted in heritage, inspired by nature, or imagined from a dream. I merge traditional Indian craftsmanship with contemporary design to create pieces that are timeless yet relevant. My designs are a celebration of individuality, strength, and spirit.


3. What was the pivotal moment that significantly elevated your profile and helped you gain recognition from a designer to a brand?
There have been many defining moments, but if I had to pinpoint one, it would be the moment when international and Bollywood celebrities began wearing my pieces on red carpets and at iconic events. It gave the brand visibility and credibility. But more than that, it was the consistency in my vision and the love my clients showed for my work that truly transitioned me from being a designer to becoming a brand.


4. How would you describe your signature design aesthetic, and what do you believe sets your pieces apart from others in the industry?
My aesthetic is bold, luxurious, and fearless, yet deeply rooted in meaning. I love experimenting with scale, color, and unusual materials, but always with a sense of harmony. What sets my pieces apart is their emotional value—they’re not just decorative, they’re expressive. Whether it’s a statement cuff or a delicate pendant, my jewellery speaks to the wearer’s soul. I don’t follow trends; I create what feels authentic to my creative spirit.









5. What are some of the unique challenges and excitements you face when designing jewellery for film stars and celebrities? Name some celebs and the jewellery designed for them or the events!
Designing for celebrities is thrilling because every piece must resonate with their persona and the occasion. You have to strike the perfect balance between spectacle and sophistication. I’ve had the pleasure of designing a host of celebrities Priyanka Chopra to Deepika Padukone, from Aishwarya Rai to Kareena Kapoor, From Malaika Khan Arora to Sushmita Sen, Lara Dutta, Lisa Ray and to many others who have donned my iconic pieces for red carpets across the globe. I have also had the Bollywood actors like Salman Khan, Hrithik Roshan, Fardeen Khan, Zayed Khan, Arjun Rampal, Ritesh Deshmukh, Kunal Kapoor, and Karan Johar wear my jewellery. A memorable piece I designed was for Ravenna Tandon for her wedding. It was a beautiful moulin rouge kind of choker with aquamarines and diamonds. It was stunning as it draped effortlessly around her neck and made her look like a Queen.


6. What are your penchant favorites? Metals, gemstones, and materials to work with, and how do they influence your designs?
I have a deep love for gemstones. – there’s something eternal and emotive about their brilliance. I adore colored gemstones like emeralds, rubies, and sapphires, rubelites and tanzanites. Each gem has a personality, and I treat them like muses. I enjoy working with 18kt gold in various finishes—be it high polish, satin, or matte—and I’ve also explored ceramic, enamel, and unconventional materials to bring freshness into design. The materials guide the design—they whisper stories I want to translate into reality.
7. Could you take us through the creative process behind your unique and innovative jewellery pieces and collections?
Every collection begins with inspiration—sometimes from art, nature, architecture, or even a fleeting emotion. I sketch prolifically, letting ideas flow uninhibited. Once a concept is crystallized, I refine the design, select the gemstones, and work closely with my craftsmen to bring it to life. Prototypes are made, feedback is incorporated, and only then does a piece become part of the collection. I’m involved in every stage because I believe the magic is in the details.


8. As an entrepreneur, what key lessons have you learned in establishing your business, and what strategies have you implemented for growth, brand positioning, and success? How do you balance creativity with commercial viability and shifting consumer preferences?
Being an entrepreneur in a creative field is about walking the tightrope between artistry and strategy. One key lesson I’ve learned is that authenticity is your greatest asset. Consumers are incredibly intuitive—they connect with purpose and passion. I’ve focused on building a brand that stands for bold design, quality, and storytelling. To stay commercially viable, I listen—trends, feedback, shifting tastes—but I don’t compromise on originality. Strategic collaborations, a strong digital presence, and personalized client experiences have been pivotal in our growth.


9. What are some of the biggest trends currently shaping the Indian jewellery market, and how do they compare to global trends? How do global luxury trends influence consumer behaviour in India?
Today’s Indian consumer is well-traveled, well-informed, and looking for pieces that reflect their lifestyle—not just tradition. There’s a growing demand for versatile, contemporary jewellery that can transition from day to night. Globally, we see a move toward minimalism, sustainability, and personalization—and India is catching up fast. The lines between fine and fashion are blurring. Indian buyers now seek stories, individuality, and craftsmanship, and they are open to investing in statement pieces that aren’t necessarily traditional, but deeply personal.


10. What do you see as the future of the luxury jewellery market in India?
The future is bright, dynamic, and deeply exciting. India has a rich legacy of jewellery, and that heritage is now fusing with modernity like never before. The market is evolving to include younger audiences who value design, ethics, and expression. Technology, digital platforms, and bespoke experiences will redefine how jewellery is created and consumed. I see India not just as a consumer of luxury jewellery, but as a global tastemaker—where tradition meets innovation, and the world looks to us for inspiration.
Designer Focus
Zoya’s design philosophy is rooted in celebrating a woman’s connection to her most authentic self
Zoya, meaning ‘alive,’ embodies this belief, as we create jewellery that reflects the strength, spirit, and individuality of our muse

Sangeeta Dewan, Head of Design, Zoya, speaks to JewelBuzz on design philosophy, Zoya’s brand ethos , the intricacies of the creative process and product development, evolving consumer mindsets amongst other things.


What is your design philosophy, and how does it align with Zoya’s brand ethos?
At Zoya, we are reimagining the fine jewellery experience through pieces that are more than just adornments—they are works of wearable art. Our design philosophy is rooted in celebrating a woman’s connection to her most authentic self, capturing the essence of what it means to feel truly alive. The name Zoya, meaning ‘alive,’ embodies this belief, as we create jewellery that reflects the strength, spirit, and individuality of our muse. Each collection is a testament to her journey, timeless in its elegance and depth.
Where do you draw inspiration for your collections? Are there specific themes, cultures, or eras that influence your work?
Inspiration for each Zoya creation comes from a rich tapestry of sources, both literal and metaphorical, reflecting the inner journey of the Zoya woman. For example, our Alive collection draws from the bloom of a wildflower, symbolizing the free spirit of a woman who flourishes wherever she is. The Beyond collection pays tribute to the mighty Indus, mirroring the emotional phases of a woman’s life—from turbulence to tranquility. Similarly, Her Becoming finds its roots in the geometric beauty of Ikat weaving, expressed through rare diamond cuts, weaving the story of a woman crafting her own unique life. Every collection is a celebration of the spirit, resilience, and grace of the Zoya woman.

How do you ensure a balance between tradition, cultural heritage, and modernity in your designs?/
At Zoya, we blend tradition with modernity in a way that speaks to both the heart and the eye. Our jewellery reflects India’s rich heritage of artistry while embracing contemporary elegance. Collections like Whispers of the Valley evoke the poetic beauty of Kashmir’s seasons, while Banaras reinterprets the centuries-old art of Gulabi Minakari, infusing it with a fresh, modern sensibility. Our pieces are more than just beautiful; they are timeless, versatile, and unmistakably Zoya—designed for the woman of today, yet steeped in the legacy of India’s finest craftsmanship.
4. Can you walk us through your creative process, from ideation to the final piece? How do you decide on the materials, gemstones, and techniques for each collection?
Our creative process begins with a compelling narrative that resonates with the essence of the Zoya woman. Once the concept is established, we handpick materials and gemstones that amplify the design’s emotional and visual energy. For instance, in our Reborn collection, we introduced the Zoya Eterna Cut™, a groundbreaking design perfected through masterful craftsmanship and innovation. Featuring a meticulously crafted star-shaped facet, this exclusive cut transforms each solitaire into wearable art, radiating timeless brilliance and meaning.
5. What’s next for Zoya? What can we expect from Zoya jewellery design in the next few years?
Zoya will continue to redefine the fine jewellery experience, creating meaningful pieces that combine artistry with an ethos of warm luxury. Our design language remains at the forefront of innovation, with collections like My Embrace and Samāve, which are already making waves, alongside patented stone cuts seen in Aeterna, Alive, and Reborn. With every collection, we push the boundaries of design and craftsmanship, while remaining true to the timeless, sophisticated essence that defines Zoya.
6. How do you balance current fashion trends with creating timeless pieces?
At Zoya, we acknowledge trends but don’t follow them blindly. Our focus is on creating jewellery that tells a story—one that is timeless, authentic, and profoundly meaningful. We draw from profound emotional connections and artistic inspiration, ensuring that our pieces not only reflect the moment but also stand the test of time. Each piece is designed with the modern woman in mind—strong, free-spirited, and ever-evolving—but with a commitment to enduring beauty and craftsmanship that will be cherished for generations.

7. How does Zoya cater to the evolving preferences of today’s discerning consumers?
At Zoya, we create jewellery that transcends adornment, offering pieces rich in meaning, artistry, and emotional depth. By blending tradition with contemporary sensibilities, our designs cater to the evolving desires of today’s discerning consumer—timeless, versatile, and deeply personal. With exclusive design registrations, patented stone cuts, and rare artisanal techniques, we continuously innovate while remaining grounded in our heritage. Zoya is not just jewellery—it is an immersive experience, one that invites our clients into a world of bespoke creations, personalized services, and a warm, luxurious atmosphere.
8. How do you craft a narrative for the consumer who values a deeper connection to the stories behind their jewellery?
At Zoya, every piece is a narrative, a reflection of the woman who wears it. We craft jewellery with a deep emotional resonance—stories of heritage, nature, culture, and personal evolution. Each collection, whether it’s the poetic elegance of Whispers of the Valley or the geometric grace of Her Becoming, is a celebration of her journey. Through masterful craftsmanship and rare artisanal techniques, we create jewellery that speaks to the soul, not just the senses—a true expression of individuality, strength, and beauty.
9. Can you share a favorite collection from your brand’s history and why it’s meaningful to you?
One of my personal favorites is My Embrace, an autograph collection from Zoya that stands as a signature identifier of the brand. Inspired by the emotional depth of a self-embrace, the designs translate this sentiment into sculptural forms, featuring a continuous flow that harmoniously integrates design and craftsmanship. An outstanding piece from this collection is the iconic My Embrace Bangle, a signature creation that symbolizes self-acceptance and individuality. Crafted in high-gloss rose gold, yellow gold, and platinum, it features pear-cut diamonds in an unusual setting, making it an evocative emblem of elegance and identity.
10. How do you approach creating bespoke or customized pieces for clients?
Creating bespoke jewellery at Zoya is an intimate, transformative process—one where a client’s story is distilled into a piece of wearable art. Our design team listens attentively to the emotions, memories, and inspirations that define each client’s journey. We then bring their vision to life, using rare gemstones and Zoya’s unparalleled craftsmanship to create a timeless treasure. Every bespoke piece is more than jewellery—it is a cherished narrative, an heirloom, crafted with the utmost care and artistry, reflecting the client’s true essence.

By Invitation
Nehal Shah: Queen of Charms
“I want to create pieces that stand the test time, transcending trends and feeling as relevant years from now as they are today”

Nehal Shah, founder of ENESSE by NEHAL SHAH, created a unique niche for herself with her exquisite collection of charms, depicting women’s most desired accessories like shoes, bags, etc. transformed into iconic and trendy jewellery pieces.
Each charm has a theme along with a relevant message, that all women can identify with and define their own personal style, moments, aspirations, desires and more. Charms allow for endless creativity and personalization, making them adaptable to trends and individual stories.
Nehal Shah, the Queen of Charms, spoke to JewelBuzz on her journey in jewellery designing, her philosophy to create pieces that stand the test time ….and more.


Take us through your journey into jewelry designing: your inspiration, your beginnings, and your evolution into a renowned designer.
Design is an exciting and deeply creative process, with each piece telling a story. Every jewelry design begins with an inspiration. It might come from nature, architecture, emotions, or even a personal story.
It sounds like creating charms is a perfect way to bring fresh, versatile designs to the jewelry line. Charms allow for endless creativity and personalization, making them adaptable to trends and individual stories. Plus, with each charm carrying its own meaning, they’re easy for customers to connect with on a personal level. It’s a great strategy to add variety while offering pieces that can hold sentimental value!
Connecting each charm to your personal life emotions is a beautiful part of designing charms, each charm can symbolize a memory of life like a handbag, sunglasses, stilettos, gift box, champagne glass, lipstick, perfume bottles.



What is your design philosophy?
To create pieces that stand the test time, transcending trends and feeling as relevant years from now as they do today.
Charms have been in the market for several years now. Nehal Shah has reinvented and discovered the concept and more designs in 3D format. The overall range is crafted with a futuristic vision. The collection, although urban and new-age, is yet timeless and eternal. Charms can be passed on from generation to generation and it fits well to all the age groups. Charms can be used for personal consumption as well as a Gift idea.


What are your favorite metals, stones and other materials?
Gold and titanium is my favorite metal in combination with diamonds, color stone , enamel and hand painting.
————
Take us through the creation process of your unique, out of the box jewelry pieces/ collections.
I have creatively imagined different hues of enamel in my heart, while designing the concept. The beautiful locks have been specifically designed for the charms and the necklace. Different locks and detachable charms offer a significant flexibility for the consumer. Varied combinations can be tried and every time a unique look having a variety of combinations can be donned. These combinations can include various color stones, diamonds, and enamel.
As an entrepreneur, what are the lessons you have learnt in establishing a business, strategy for growth, brand positioning etc. How does one balance creativity with commercial viability and changing consumer preferences?
Balancing creativity with commercial viability and changing consumer preferences is a challenging but rewarding aspect of jewelry design.
I do not hesitate to experiment and dare new and out-of-the-box designs, which is wearable and price sensitive. Balancing creativity with commercial viability and changing consumer preferences is a challenging but rewarding aspect of jewelry design.
- Understanding the Target Audience
- Following Trends Without Losing Identity
- Creating Timeless with a Twist
- Experimenting in Small Batches
- Balancing Practicality with Artistry

Your comments on the current jewelry designing segment in India? What is the standing and brand positioning of India’s jewelry designers on the global stage? After MAKE IN INDIA, are we ready for DESIGN IN INDIA?
Indian jewellery designer segment is vibrant and evolving, especially in the country, with a fascinating mix of tradition and innovation. India’s jewelry designers are making significant strides on the global stage, with a brand positioning that highlights rich heritage, skilled craftsmanship, and unique design perspective.
————
What is potential for Indian designers to collaborate with global brands and top international designers?
Immense potential. If the product is great, the time is always right. India has a great blend of skills, intelligence, cost and economies of scale.
————
What’s your message for aspiring, as well as practicing jewelry designers?
Don’t hesitate to experiment new ideas, go with your gut feeling and you will never fail.

-
National News7 days ago
Malabar Gold & Diamonds Inaugurates Landmark Integrated Manufacturing Site in Hyderabad, Cementing Its Position as a Global Manufacturing Leader
-
National News2 months ago
Emmadi Silver Jewellery Launches First Karnataka Store with Grand Opening in Bengaluru’s Malleshwaram
-
BrandBuzz3 months ago
Mia by Tanishq Unveils ‘Fiora’ Collection This Akshaya Tritiya: A Celebration of Nature’s Blossoms and New Beginnings
-
GlamBuzz2 months ago
Gokulam Signature Jewels Debuts in Hyderabad with Glamorous Launch at KPHB