JB Insights
VICENZAORO JANUARY 2024
IEG’s trade show is the global jewellery industry’s choice
Attendance +3% more than 2023 on the 70th anniversary, 141 countries of origin. The United States, Turkey and Spain on the podium. Enhanced hosted buyer programme thanks to ITA – Italian trade Agency
More than 1,300 exhibiting brands
Technologies: T.Gold, showcase of top products for the supply chain. In 2025, the first edition of “The Vicenza Symposium”, a global scientific event
Watchmaking segment consolidated with TIME for B2B. Visitors to VO Vintage up 13%
More than 490 students at the 20 events in the city’s VIOFF programme
Work to start on the new 22,000-square-metre hall: an investment of about Euro 60mn
Vicenzaoro January 2024 exceeds all the most optimistic prior expectations of the Vicenza – Italy gold and jewellery exhibition’s 70-year anniversary. Italian Exhibition Group’s «boutique show» closed today with a 3% increase in attendance at the Vicenza Expo Centre, surpassing last January’s record edition. Moreover, at this edition, six out of ten visitors came from abroad: the global jewellery industry has chosen, Vicenza will be a market hub for the next 70 years. IEG responds with the start of work on the new 22,000-square-meter hall.
THE VICENZAORO JANUARY 2024 NUMBERS
Foreign attendance has been confirmed at 60% of the total, arriving from 141 countries around the world, up from 136 in 2023: with Europe counting 53%, the Middle East 9.3%, Asia 10.5%, Turkey 8%, North America 7.2%, Latin America 5.1% and Africa 4.9%.
Among the most represented individual countries overall: the United States and Turkey; from Europe Spain, Germany, France, Greece and the UK; from the Middle East the United Arab Emirates, while standing out from Asia are India, China, Japan, Thailand and Hong Kong. The largest increases are for China (+188%), Japan (+44%), Colombia (+38%), Brazil (+36%) and France (+25%). Among the new entries at Vicenzaoro: Tanzania, El Salvador and Honduras. Veneto, Lombardy, Tuscany and Piedmont confirm an extremely positive trend for Italian attendance, which saw an overall increase of 3.2% compared to 2023.
T.GOLD ON THE RISE
At this edition, T.Gold, the leading international innovation showcase featuring the most advanced machinery for goldsmithing and the latest processes applied to gold and jewellery, organized in partnership with A.F.E.M.O., saw a 4.7% increase in attendance.
TIMEPIECES.
In the timepiece segment, VO Vintage consolidated its success with exhibitors up 22% for vintage watches and jewellery open to the B2C public, with collectors, experts and watch lovers from Italy and around the world also up +13%.
INDUSTRY AND TRAINING, PASSION MAKES A COMEBACK
Gold and jewellery see restored generational turnover in the labour market. Industry and education meet at Vicenzaoro: 23 schools at the Show, mostly from Italy and from France, Germany and the UK for a total of about 750 students and escorts, all involved in the many initiatives. In the VIOFF programme of city events, Vicenzaoro’s off-show, more than 490 students took part in the 20 events on the calendar.
THE EXPO CENTRE CHANGES FACE, 2024 IS THE YEAR OF WORK ON THE NEW HALL
The close of Vicenzaoro January 2024 will mark the opening of the building site that will return a new layout to the Vicenza Expo Centre for the September 2026 edition. The new 22,000-square-meter hall will replace Hall 2, the historic “snail” built in 1971, and Hall 5, to provide more space for exhibitors and better “navigability” for visitors inside the building. The investment of about 60 million euros is fully financed by IEG.
“THE VICENZA SYMPOSIUM”, THE NEW EVENT ON IEG’S JEWELLERY AGENDA
Italian Exhibition Group’s Jewellery Agenda will be further enriched as of 2025 with a new international event, “The Vicenza Symposium” scheduled to take place from 2 – 4 September. Vicenza will therefore inherit the scientific legacy of the “Santa Fe Symposium” which closed in 2022. A biennial event with a problem-solving approach for companies, the Symposium is the result of IEG’s collaboration with two leading companies in the T.Gold world: Legor and Xolutions.
GLOBAL STAKEHOLDERS AND INSTITUTIONAL PARTNERS
Vicenzaoro January confirmed its role as an international reference point due to the presence of the entire institutional and association world. From Confindustria Federorafi, Confartigianato Orafi, Confcommercio Federpreziosi, CNA Orafi, Confimi Industria Categoria Orafa ed Argentiera to Assogemme, Assocoral and A.F.E.M.O. – Association of Jewellery Machinery Manufacturers and Exporters, CIBJO – World Jewellery Confederation, Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation, ITA – Italian Trade Agency.
The community’s next appointment with Vicenzaoro will be from 6th to 10th September 2024.


JB Insights
Jewellery Stocks Surge Following Gold ETF FoF Restrictions
Fresh Curbs On Paper-Gold Products Have Pushed Investor Attention Toward Physical Gold and Organised Jewellers Just As Dussehra, Diwali and The Wedding Season Arrive. The Rally Was Real, But It Was Narrower, and IYU78ts Cause Less Certain,Than The Headline Suggests.
Key Takeaways
- Around 17 fund houses temporarily halted fresh subscriptions to gold ETF funds of funds (FoFs) on 15 and 16 October 2026, reportedly on SEBI instructions relayed through AMFI.
- On 16 October, jewellery stocks rose by as much as 9% in early trade. The sharpest moves came in smaller names: PC Jeweller, Shanti Gold, Sky Gold and Diamonds, and TBZ. Titan and Kalyan Jewellers moved far less.
- No verified evidence shows that money blocked from gold FoFs flowed into jewellery shares. Market commentary treats the curbs as a catalyst for attention, not a proven cause.
- Gold prices have since eased, and the sector now trades on festive demand, margins and earnings quality rather than on the curbs alone.
What Happened
Seventeen mutual fund houses temporarily restricted fresh investments in their gold ETF FoFs, with the curbs taking effect on 15 and 16 October. The restrictions cover fresh lump sums, switch-ins, top-ups, and new SIP and STP registrations. ICICI Prudential, HDFC, Tata, Kotak, DSP, Mirae Asset, UTI, HSBC, LIC, Quantum, Zerodha and Groww are among the AMCs that issued notices. Several also curbed bulk subscriptions to gold ETFs themselves, and HDFC and Mirae extended the curbs to their gold-silver passive FoFs.
Three features matter for readers:
- The curbs are temporary. Notices say they stay in place until further notice.
- Existing holders are untouched. Redemptions continue, and SIP and STP instalments registered before the cut-off dates run as usual.
- No reasons were given. The notices did not state a rationale. The context is pressure on India’s external balances and the rupee, a heavy import bill and a festive season in which gold and silver ETF subscriptions surged last year.
Gold ETF net inflows had already jumped to Rs 4,450.61 crore in September, up 71.4% from Rs 2,596.70 crore in August, according to AMFI data. Globally, gold ETFs drew about 67 tonnes (nearly $10 billion) in September, according to the World Gold Council.
The Investment Thesis
The logic circulating in the market runs as follows:
- Substitution. With new money barred from FoFs, some investors may turn to coins, bars and jewellery, or to listed jewellers as a proxy for gold demand.
- Festive timing. Dussehra, Dhanteras, Diwali and the wedding season are the strongest demand window of the year, and the shifted festive calendar could lift the October–December quarter’s share of annual sales.
- Organised-sector share gains. Analysts expect Titan, Kalyan and Senco Gold to keep winning share from the unorganised segment.
- Consumer adaptation. Buyers are coping with high prices through lightweight jewellery, smaller tickets and old-gold exchange.
- Operating momentum. Recent reported jewellery growth has been strong: Titan’s jewellery business up 21%, Kalyan’s India revenue up 27%, Senco Gold up 31% and PC Jeweller up 28% in consolidated revenue.
What the Evidence Does Not Show
A careful reading of the available coverage suggests caution on the causal story:
- No proven money flow. Nothing verifies that capital denied access to gold FoFs went into jewellery shares.
- Different routes remain open. The curbs hit specific FoFs and some ETF bulk subscriptions, not every way of owning gold.
- Concentrated, not sector-wide. The sharpest moves were in smaller stocks, where low bases and momentum trading amplify headlines.
- Values are not volumes. Jewellery sales can rise in rupee terms while customers buy fewer grams of gold.
- Imports are not surging. Gold imports fell to $1.8 billion in September from $2.3 billion in August, so a festive import surge is a concern, not a confirmed outcome.
In short, the curbs lit the fuse, but festive demand and company fundamentals are the fuel.
Macro Backdrop
- Duty and appeals. Earlier this year the government raised effective gold and silver import duties to 15% from 6%. In May, the Prime Minister urged citizens to defer gold purchases for a year to conserve foreign exchange. Jewellery stocks fell 5.5% to 11% on that appeal, and they also fell on the duty hike while gold ETFs and gold-loan lenders rallied.
- Gold prices. 24-carat gold stood at Rs 1,50,980 per 10 grams on 12 October and Rs 1,47,440 on 16 October. By 21 October it had slipped to roughly Rs 1,46,080, about 3.25% below the 12 October level. Buyers are watching whether prices find a floor before Dhanteras.
- Six-month stock performance. To mid-October, Kalyan was up over 27%, Thangamayil about 13%, Sky Gold and Diamonds about 139%, Senco Gold flat and Titan down about 2%.
Implications for the Trade
- Retailers. Policy now cuts both ways: restrictions on paper gold support physical demand narratives, while duties, appeals and rupee-defence measures can dampen it. Lightweight designs, exchange schemes and gold-metal-loan and hedging discipline remain the practical levers.
- Manufacturers and wholesalers. Festive restocking, working-capital cost and hedge cover matter more than headline sentiment.
- Investors. Analysts caution against treating the curbs as a standalone reason to buy. Margins, same-store growth and sustainable earnings should drive the decision.
What to Watch
- Any relaxation or extension of the FoF subscription curbs, and whether other gold-linked products see similar action.
- Domestic gold price direction through Dhanteras and Diwali.
- Festive-quarter commentary and results from Titan, Kalyan, Senco and PC Jeweller.
- Gold import data for October and the state of the rupee.
- Further policy signals on duties or gold-buying appeals.
Bottom Line
The FoF curbs gave jewellery stocks a timely narrative, and small-cap names ran hardest on it. But the durable case for organised jewellers rests on festive and wedding demand, share gains from the unorganised sector and clean earnings. The curbs are a headline; the festive footfall is the test.
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