JB Insights
VICENZAORO JANUARY 2024
IEG’s trade show is the global jewellery industry’s choice
Attendance +3% more than 2023 on the 70th anniversary, 141 countries of origin. The United States, Turkey and Spain on the podium. Enhanced hosted buyer programme thanks to ITA – Italian trade Agency
More than 1,300 exhibiting brands
Technologies: T.Gold, showcase of top products for the supply chain. In 2025, the first edition of “The Vicenza Symposium”, a global scientific event
Watchmaking segment consolidated with TIME for B2B. Visitors to VO Vintage up 13%
More than 490 students at the 20 events in the city’s VIOFF programme
Work to start on the new 22,000-square-metre hall: an investment of about Euro 60mn
Vicenzaoro January 2024 exceeds all the most optimistic prior expectations of the Vicenza – Italy gold and jewellery exhibition’s 70-year anniversary. Italian Exhibition Group’s «boutique show» closed today with a 3% increase in attendance at the Vicenza Expo Centre, surpassing last January’s record edition. Moreover, at this edition, six out of ten visitors came from abroad: the global jewellery industry has chosen, Vicenza will be a market hub for the next 70 years. IEG responds with the start of work on the new 22,000-square-meter hall.
THE VICENZAORO JANUARY 2024 NUMBERS
Foreign attendance has been confirmed at 60% of the total, arriving from 141 countries around the world, up from 136 in 2023: with Europe counting 53%, the Middle East 9.3%, Asia 10.5%, Turkey 8%, North America 7.2%, Latin America 5.1% and Africa 4.9%.
Among the most represented individual countries overall: the United States and Turkey; from Europe Spain, Germany, France, Greece and the UK; from the Middle East the United Arab Emirates, while standing out from Asia are India, China, Japan, Thailand and Hong Kong. The largest increases are for China (+188%), Japan (+44%), Colombia (+38%), Brazil (+36%) and France (+25%). Among the new entries at Vicenzaoro: Tanzania, El Salvador and Honduras. Veneto, Lombardy, Tuscany and Piedmont confirm an extremely positive trend for Italian attendance, which saw an overall increase of 3.2% compared to 2023.
T.GOLD ON THE RISE
At this edition, T.Gold, the leading international innovation showcase featuring the most advanced machinery for goldsmithing and the latest processes applied to gold and jewellery, organized in partnership with A.F.E.M.O., saw a 4.7% increase in attendance.
TIMEPIECES.
In the timepiece segment, VO Vintage consolidated its success with exhibitors up 22% for vintage watches and jewellery open to the B2C public, with collectors, experts and watch lovers from Italy and around the world also up +13%.
INDUSTRY AND TRAINING, PASSION MAKES A COMEBACK
Gold and jewellery see restored generational turnover in the labour market. Industry and education meet at Vicenzaoro: 23 schools at the Show, mostly from Italy and from France, Germany and the UK for a total of about 750 students and escorts, all involved in the many initiatives. In the VIOFF programme of city events, Vicenzaoro’s off-show, more than 490 students took part in the 20 events on the calendar.
THE EXPO CENTRE CHANGES FACE, 2024 IS THE YEAR OF WORK ON THE NEW HALL
The close of Vicenzaoro January 2024 will mark the opening of the building site that will return a new layout to the Vicenza Expo Centre for the September 2026 edition. The new 22,000-square-meter hall will replace Hall 2, the historic “snail” built in 1971, and Hall 5, to provide more space for exhibitors and better “navigability” for visitors inside the building. The investment of about 60 million euros is fully financed by IEG.
“THE VICENZA SYMPOSIUM”, THE NEW EVENT ON IEG’S JEWELLERY AGENDA
Italian Exhibition Group’s Jewellery Agenda will be further enriched as of 2025 with a new international event, “The Vicenza Symposium” scheduled to take place from 2 – 4 September. Vicenza will therefore inherit the scientific legacy of the “Santa Fe Symposium” which closed in 2022. A biennial event with a problem-solving approach for companies, the Symposium is the result of IEG’s collaboration with two leading companies in the T.Gold world: Legor and Xolutions.
GLOBAL STAKEHOLDERS AND INSTITUTIONAL PARTNERS
Vicenzaoro January confirmed its role as an international reference point due to the presence of the entire institutional and association world. From Confindustria Federorafi, Confartigianato Orafi, Confcommercio Federpreziosi, CNA Orafi, Confimi Industria Categoria Orafa ed Argentiera to Assogemme, Assocoral and A.F.E.M.O. – Association of Jewellery Machinery Manufacturers and Exporters, CIBJO – World Jewellery Confederation, Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation, ITA – Italian Trade Agency.
The community’s next appointment with Vicenzaoro will be from 6th to 10th September 2024.
By Invitation
Artisan Perspectives: Rethinking Craft In The Age Of Lab-Grown Stones
Prapanjj S K Kota
Founder & CEO at Réia Diamonds
- Traditionally, diamond value was driven by rarity, origin, and size, with craftsmanship playing a secondary role.
- With the rise of lab-grown diamonds, abundance is shifting focus from rarity to design and craftsmanship.
- Jewellery-making is returning to a craft-first approach, placing artisans at the core of value creation.
- Skill, precision, and finishing quality are becoming primary differentiators.
The rarity of diamonds has historically dictated their market value, and most of the conversation surrounding a diamond’s value has revolved around where (and how rare) it came from, and how large it was. While craftsmanship has always been important, it has often remained secondary, simply supporting the diamond rather than receiving the buyer’s focus.
As lab-grown diamonds begin to enter the market in greater numbers, the conversation surrounding them is also changing. With an increasing supply of diamonds, being a differentiating factor in jewellery becomes much more about design, craftsmanship, and the quality of work than about rarity.
For artisans, this shift means that the focus of making jewellery has returned to the craft itself.
From a technical perspective, lab-grown diamonds do not affect the fundamentals of jewellery making. They will continue to have the same hardness, brilliance, and structural properties that natural diamonds do; therefore, using traditional setting techniques, including precision settings, pavé work, micro-setting, and polishing, will be just as essential. While the tools may be more modern, the knowledge to work with diamonds continues to be based on many years of training and experience.
The major change comes with the new opportunities presented by working with lab-created stones.
Designers are utilising the increased access to stones to try new layouts incorporating a greater focus on symmetry, scale and intricate detail. As jewellery changes, so does its craftsmanship. Today, with designs that involve numerous stones, layered settings, and modern silhouettes, artisans must have an intentional focus on the structural integrity and balance of the pieces being created, elevating their role more than ever before.
As we see craftsmanship play a supporting role to design when jewellery becomes design-centric, the specifics of how stones are aligned, how strong the setting is, and how well metal surfaces are finished will have an impact on how a piece looks, feels, and holds up over time; and therefore, they cannot be replicated with technology alone.
This change also highlights the importance of India’s historical craft traditions. Surat’s experience in the production of diamonds has established it as a leading force in the world of fine jewellery. This industry relies heavily on a team of talented craftsmen and manufacturing expertise, which plays a very important role in the overall development of jewellery that uses natural as well as lab-grown diamonds.
The introduction of lab-grown diamonds offers a fresh new direction for many artisans, as well as introducing something new into the world of fine jewellery. As it becomes less critical to know where a stone comes from, knowing the quality of the craftsmanship around a piece of jewellery will become increasingly essential. Design integrity, structural engineering, and finishing standards will all contribute to defining the real value of a finished piece.
Therefore, there is an opportunity for artisans; thoughtful design with precise execution requires a high level of technical proficiency. The better the craft, the more evident the difference is.
With the rise of lab-grown diamonds, the discussion about value will slowly evolve to include what has always been considered great jewellery: the skill, time, and craftsmanship it takes to create a piece of art from a design.
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