International News
Jewellery industry unites to protect consumer confidence: CIBJO
In a landmark move for the jewellery sector, the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) has launched a four-month public consultation for The Blue List: The Responsible Jewellery Supply Chain Lexicon. This initiative marks the culmination of a collaborative effort spanning more than three years to establish a globally harmonised glossary of responsible sourcing and sustainability terminology for the jewellery, gemstone and precious metals industries.
The public consultation on the draft glossary launches today at the headquarters of UFBJOP (Union Française de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie, Orfèvrerie, des Pierres & des Perles), held on the sidelines of the OECD Forum on Responsible Mineral Supply Chains in Paris. It will close on September 6, 2025 at the VicenzaOro jewellery show in Vicenza, Italy.
Developed by CIBJO’s Nomenclature Committee, The Blue List responds to rising demand for greater transparency and a lack of harmonised governance around marketing claims. To address this, the Committee reviewed widely used consumer-facing terms and conducted research drawing on international standards, legal analyses, and existing industry frameworks. The findings revealed significant gaps that created ambiguity and confusion across the supply chain. The draft Blue List directly addresses these gaps through a robust framework designed to ensure terminology is accurate, substantiated, and easy to understand. Ultimately, this initiative helps protect consumer confidence by ensuring that marketing claims are clear, credible, and universally understood.
The Blue List represents a shared commitment by the industry to define consistent terminology for responsible sourcing. The initiative is co-chaired by Dr. Gaetano Cavalieri, President of CIBJO, and Feriel Zerouki, Senior Vice President of Provenance, Ethics & Industry Relations at De Beers Group, with Purvi Shah, Head of Ethical and Sustainable Value Chains at De Beers Group, serving as its lead.
Bringing together voices from every stage of the supply chain—from mining companies to retailers—the working group includes major brands, SMEs, national and international trade associations, legal experts, and stakeholders from the diamond, coloured gemstone, pearl, coral and precious metals sectors.

“The Blue List is a vital step toward greater consistency and credibility in how our industry communicates about responsibility,” said Dr. Gaetano Cavalieri, President of CIBJO. “With growing demand for transparency, the absence of clear, harmonised terminology has led to confusion, even among professionals. By providing universally agreed language and guidance for substantiation, we are creating a common ground that strengthens trust both within the industry and with the public.”
“Language matters, especially when it relates to ethics and sustainability,” said Feriel Zerouki, Senior Vice President of Provenance, Ethics & Industry Relations at De Beers Group. “The Blue List empowers businesses to speak responsibly, confidently and consistently. It enables clear communication with consumers, supports responsible marketing and reinforces the values we stand for as an industry.”

CIBJO invites all members of the jewellery sector, along with external stakeholders and subject matter experts, to take part in the public consultation of The Blue List. Contributions are welcome from across the supply chain and related sectors. Submissions can be made online via a dedicated mini-site HERE, where interested participants can engage in the process. CIBJO also welcomes requests for market-specific presentations to support broader understanding and engagement across different regions.
Following the consultation period and approval by the CIBJO Board of Directors, The Blue List will be formally launched at the 2025 CIBJO Congress in Paris, taking place October 27-29, 2025. Like the CIBJO Blue Books, it will serve as a living document, reviewed regularly and updated as regulatory needs evolve.
International News
Sotheby’s Breuer Opening Auction Achieves Nearly $14 Million With Exceptional Heritage Jewels
The luxury house expands its creative partnership with the K-pop icon, introducing limited-edition pieces that fuse high jewellery craftsmanship with global pop-culture appeal.
The inaugural jewelry sale at Sotheby’s new Breuer building location showcases rare masterpieces from Boucheron, Belperron, JAR, Cartier and more—setting strong results across top lots.
Sotheby’s marked the debut of its New York Breuer building with an elegant inaugural jewelry sale titled A Legacy of Elegance: Jewels from an Exceptional Collection. The auction presented 56 curated lots from some of the most influential designers in jewelry history and closed with an impressive total approaching$14 million.
The top performer of the evening was a magnificent Boucheron laurel wreath necklace dating back to around 1888. Set with seven cushion-cut Burmese and Thai rubies and a mix of old mine-, old European-, and single-cut diamonds, the historic piece sold for $1.3 million, landing comfortably within its presale estimate.
The auction featured standout creations by celebrated names including Suzanne Belperron, JAR, René Boivin and Cartier—many of which surpassed expectations. Below are the remaining highlights from the top 10 results:

Reversible Pendant/Brooch: A vibrant multi-gem piece featuring pink topazes, rubies, diamonds, amethysts, sapphires, tourmalines and demantoid garnets sold for just over $1 million, more than doubling its $500,000 high estimate.

Diamond Earrings: A pair showcasing two pear-shaped diamonds — a 12.24-carat F/VVS2 and an 11.68-carat D/VS2 — realized $889,000.

Suzanne Belperron, 1966 Bib Necklace: Featuring topazes, morganites, aquamarines and diamonds, this statement creation brought in $825,500, exceeding its $350,000 top estimate.

JAR Quatrefoil Earrings: Pavé-set with rubies and diamonds, the pair sold for $698,500, above the $600,000 estimate.

JAR Rock Crystal & Sapphire Butterfly Brooch (circa 1987): Achieved $698,500, surpassing its $500,000 expected high.

Suzanne Belperron, 1954 Necklace: A cabochon sapphire and diamond bib-style piece that doubled its estimate, selling for $635,000.

JAR Wild Rose Brooch: Featuring a grey natural pearl framed by amethyst and sapphire petals, the brooch brought in $609,600, beating its $400,000 estimate.

Cartier 1930s Ruby & Diamond Bracelet: The invisibly-set classic reached $558,800, just over its high estimate.

JAR Frost-Inspired Earrings: Diamond-set branches radiating from pear-shaped center stones sold for $508,000, slightly above expectations.
The successful debut signals strong collector appetite for rare, historically significant jewels and reinforces Sotheby’s positioning at the forefront of high jewelry auctions.
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