JB Insights
I believe in crafting pieces that not only showcase aesthetic beauty but also carry meaningful stories and emotions – By Sankesh Surana

Sankesh Surana, Co-Founder & Head of Design-Sankesh Surana, is a visionary. The brand Sankesh Surana is renowned for its exceptional craftsmanship and innovative designs. As the co-founder of the Sankesh Surana atelier, Sankesh Surana is not only an award-winning jewellery designer but also an artist, lifestyle designer, jewellery and educator.
Sankesh Surana speaks to JEWELBUZZ on his design philosophy, inspiration, learnings from life….and more.



Take us through your journey into jewellery designing: your inspiration, your beginnings, and your evolution into a renowned designer.
My journey into jewellery designing began with a love for creativity and expression. I started my career by selling gemstones, and thanks to the keen interest I had in jewellery, I gradually started crafting jewellery, making custom-made products for my clients based on their life stories, and so on. Eventually, I expanded into designing luxury lifestyle products like scarves, crockery, and perfumes. After designing for renowned manufacturers, corporate brands, elite clients, and collaborations with other designers, my sister, Preethi Chopda, and I opened our flagship retail store in Jayanagar, Bangalore, in the year 2022, after catering to our clients for over 8 years. Alongside, I also founded an art school to share my passion and experiences with aspiring designers. It’s been a fulfilling journey of exploring creativity and learning numerous new and exciting things.



What is your design philosophy?
My designs revolve around personal expression and personal connection. I believe in crafting pieces that not only showcase aesthetic beauty but also carry meaningful stories and emotions. Whether it is jewellery or lifestyle products, I strive to infuse each creation with artistic elements and attention to detail. I draw inspiration from nature, culture and individual stories, incorporating them into my designs, I also enjoy the revival of patterns and techniques of the past, blending them with jewellery to make it suited for the contemporary world.
As an entrepreneur, what are the lessons you have learnt in establishing a business, strategy for growth, brand positioning etc. How does one balance creativity with commercial viability and fluctuating consumer preferences?



As an entrepreneur, I’ve learned invaluable lessons in establishing and growing a business. One of the most crucial aspects is continuous adaptation to market trends and consumer preferences and delivering products that our clients are highly satisfied with, consumer satisfaction is the backbone of any business, our clients love being a part of our process and love adding their personal touch to their products, they then stand as our biggest brand ambassadors, promoting and growing our business.
Finding the right balance between creativity and commercial viability is essential. While creativity fuels innovation and sets us apart from competitors, we must also ensure that our products resonate with our target audience and meet their needs. Here, the biggest advantage we have is that being a designer gives us a lot of flexibility, and adjusting to customer preferences is much easier.



Your comments on the current jewellery designing segment in India? What is the standing and brand positioning of India’s jewellery designers on the global stage?
The current jewellery designing segment in India is blooming now more than ever. Consumers want to stand out from the crowd and own something that is more personalized, which has increased the need for good jewellery designers globally. India’s jewellery designers have carved a niche for themselves by offering a diverse range of designs to cater to a global clientele. Today, Indian jewellery designers are renowned for their intricate designs, rich cultural inspirations, and mastery of techniques passed down through generations. Other industries, especially the fashion and entertainment industry, and their portrayal of Indian jewellery, have further increased the demand for Indian jewellery on a global scale.



What’s your message for aspiring, as well as practicing, jewellery designers?
Based on my own experiences, my message for aspiring designers is to stay curious, keep learning, and try new things. Don’t stop learning; it helps you develop expertise and find your own style. Stay updated on industry changes. Growth may take time, so be patient and persistent. Everyone’s journey is unique, but learning from successes and setbacks is key to personal and professional growth. And above all, always stay true to your artistic vision and let it shine through in your work. We all share a common love for all things bling, and there is a huge opportunity for all of us. We can all grow and succeed if we embrace our innate creativity and learn and deliver consistently.

JB Insights
VICENZAORO JANUARY 2025 confirms its success as leading international business and networking platform
The show saw 1,300 brands, increase in international attendance and buyers from 145 countries

Vicenzaoro January 2025, the event of reference for the global jewellery industry and the starting point of the sector’s global calendar. The edition not only confirmed last year’s exceptional numbers, it also touched the international dimension record: in fact, foreign visitation – greater than that of Italians – reached the extraordinary participation number of 145 countries from all over the world , with Turkey, the United States, Germany, Spain and Greece in the lead and interesting increases in countries such as North Korea and Australia.

“We have won the internationality challenge,” commented Corrado Peraboni, CEO of Italian ExhibitionGroup, in regard to Vicenzaoro January 2025. “Several years ago, we decided to develop our leading products abroad. A successful strategy that has decisively increased foreign visitation at our most important events in Italy.”



Matteo Farsura, head of IEG’s gold and jewellery division, underlined: “With 1,300 brands and the involvement of the entire jewellery supply chain, from technologies to haute joaillerie, Vicenzaoro confirms its position as a global platform of reference, favouring dialogue among the different segments to meet the needs of the various markets.
US retailers were out in force at the Italian Exhibition Group (IEG) event staged in the Vicenza show. In attendance were buyers from leading companies, such as Macy’s, Neiman Marcus, Saks Off 5th, Ben Bridge Jeweler, Diane Glynn Jewelry, and Manfredi Jewels.







“Vicenzaoro was a fruitful experience where I filled some orders and discovered unique, well-crafted jewelry,” Lisa Vinicur of Pennsylvania-based Diane Glynn Jewelry told Rapaport News. “I specifically sought important pieces like bangles, earrings, necklaces, and rings that are only available in Vicenza, and I’m pleased to say I found them.”
“Although the venue had construction happening, [the organizers] increased the signage to make the show easy to navigate,” said Nina Bruno of Macy’s, based in New York. “We are always shopping for new inspiration in chains. We were pleased to see fresh manipulations in chains and innovative diamond cutting.”








Laura Barringer, Seattle-based senior buyer at Ben Bridge Jeweler, said the brand refilled all of its core selections and resourced and created a new collection it hoped to launch this spring. Managing partner of New York-based Manfredi Jewels Bianca Chiappelloni explained that part of the show’s draw is the ability to access Italian companies in one place. “It’s been beneficial for us to visit with so many of our Italian brands, in most cases seeing a much more complete and fuller showcase of their offerings than we see at some of the shows in the US,” she said
Vicenzaoro was held in conjunction with T.Gold, which showcased the excellence of the sector’s technologies (a T.Gold that, thanks to the Expo Centre’s expansion, will be staged inside the Vicenzaoro areas as of the second half of 2026), and VO Vintage, the fine vintage watch show, and the collaboration with Vicenza Municipality at VIOFF, the experiential off-show event that involved guests from all over the world.








A “rhythm” of business and innovation that never stopsbut continues for twelve months a year in a unicum of Italian Exhibition Group appointments and jewellery & fashion projects all over the world. IEG’s agenda will see OROAREZZO in May, SIJE in Singapore in July, Vicenzaoro September at the end of the summer (and the return of VO’Clock Privé) preceded by the new Vicenza Symposium, the Valenza Jem Forum in October, JGTD Dubai in November, and the Italian Jewellery Summit in Arezzo in December.
By Invitation
Diamonds Reimagined: The Rise of Lab-Grown Elegance
By Akash Talesara
President : Sky Gold ltd.

Celebrity Endorsements of LGDs
Celebrity endorsements are pivotal in transforming ethical luxury from an idealistic concept to a mainstream trend. When well-known figures embrace lab-grown diamonds, they redefine luxury by blending style with responsibility. These endorsements break the notion that luxury is only about exclusivity and excess, shifting the narrative to one where ethics and beauty coexist. As consumers increasingly prioritize sustainability, celebrities make it easier for them to align their values with their purchases, normalizing lab-grown diamonds as the future of luxury. This shift is not just a trend—it’s a cultural movement led by those who hold significant influence.



Global jewellery brands leveraging celebrity stardom
Global jewellery brands are tapping into the power of celebrity to position lab-grown diamonds as the next big thing in luxury. Celebrities bring visibility, credibility, and aspirational value to these diamonds, helping brands reframe them as a symbol of modern luxury. Through collaborations and campaigns featuring stars, jewellery brands communicate that lab-grown diamonds are not only ethically sound but also high-end and exclusive. These celebrity endorsements connect luxury with conscious consumption, shifting consumer perceptions and setting a new standard in the luxury market. This strategic use of star power helps lab-grown diamonds carve a niche as the future of sustainable luxury.
Celebrity collaborations driving the popularity of LGDs
Celebrity collaborations are a game-changer in how lab-grown diamonds are perceived. When icons align themselves with these diamonds, they make the concept of sustainable luxury not just appealing but aspirational. Through their influence, celebrities turn lab-grown diamonds into a desirable, high-status item, making them relatable for the general public. By wearing and endorsing these sustainable gems, they make them accessible to a broader range of consumers. These partnerships not only elevate the diamonds’ appeal but also serve as a bridge between high-end luxury and everyday luxury, making it more attainable for a global audience.



Millennials and Gen Z driving the shift toward LGDs
The jewellery market is shifting gears, embracing sustainability, ethical practices, and personalized designs like never before. Millennials and Gen Z are leading the charge in the lab-grown diamond movement. These diamonds are made with minimal environmental impact, offering a more eco-friendly and responsible choice. It’s not just about the sparkle, it’s about supporting brands that stand for authenticity and integrity. This change is reshaping the jewellery industry, blending craftsmanship with conscience and redefining luxury as a perfect balance of elegance and ethics.
By Invitation
Diamonds: Natural, grown, and their needs for differentiation in the global jewellery market
By Ramit Kapoor

The debate between lab grown diamonds and naturals doesn’t seem to die down. Natural diamonds have had an unfettered rule in the global fine jewellery business for centuries until technological advancement allowed lab-grown diamonds, hitherto used in machine tools and cutting, found their way successfully into the fashion and jewellery space purely based on two reasons : perceived identical appearance and a staggeringly low price. Their entry into the market created a space for affordable jewellery, but they are not designed or are equipped to take over the natural diamond market. That’s because they are different and can be scientifically identified as such.
Far from disrupting the prominence of natural diamonds, LGDs have emerged as a complementary force, addressing distinct consumer needs while broadening the appeal of diamond jewelry. But, let’s understand the purpose and appeal of each category.
Natural diamonds continue to hold an unparalleled allure, deeply rooted in their rarity, geological history, and cultural heritage. They symbolize luxury, timelessness, and emotional significance, often marking milestone moments like engagements, weddings, and the creation of family heirlooms. Spending billions of years to be formed under the earth’s surface, natural diamonds command admiration from customers who associate lasting happiness and joy with the person they are buying it for, be it a self-purchase or a gift. Its journey of formation itself carries that value which, thanks to rising awareness, is of great value to its target audience irrespective of age barriers. Such consumers prioritize provenance, ethical sourcing, and origin determination, which reinforce the enduring appeal and exclusivity of natural diamonds.
On the other hand, lab-grown diamonds have carved out their own niche in the global jewelry market, starting with eco-conscious Millennials and Gen Z consumers in the United States. These synthetic diamonds appeal to buyers seeking sustainable and affordable alternatives. In India, a global hub for jewelry, the demand for LGDs is still at its nascent stage, because consumers are still understanding the product. Hence, there is a slow but steady growth in demand driven by their cost-effectiveness and the growing adoption of Western fashion sensibilities. Offering flexibility in design, LGDs are well-suited for trendy, everyday jewelry that embraces unconventional materials such as silver, tungsten, and titanium. They provide consumers with the freedom to explore unique styles while aligning with contemporary values of affordability and sustainability.
The distinction between natural and lab-grown diamonds is not merely academic—it is vital to maintaining consumer trust. Nomenclature is of paramount importance in this regard, as there are several ways to identify a lab-grown diamond. Since they are created in a controlled environment, their origin is different from those built by nature, and hence, must be positioned accordingly to extend confidence to customers of either segment. Thus, while both have their own value propositions, transparency in branding and communication is essential. Lab-grown diamonds should be presented as a distinct category, emphasizing their origin and purpose, rather than being combined with natural diamonds.
As the diamond industry evolves, embracing the differences between natural and lab-grown diamonds is key to unlocking their full potential. Each caters to specific consumer preferences—natural diamonds for their legacy and emotional resonance, and lab-grown diamonds for their modern, versatile appeal. Retailers and stakeholders must adopt tailored marketing strategies and far better quality in certification and grading standards to give consumers exactly what they bought their products for. While the entire supply chain needs to be strongly educated to firstly identify the differences and sell the right jewellery, retailers especially need to refine marketing messages to effectively communicate these unique value propositions. This can be done by conducting awareness workshops for end-consumers and often showcasing both varieties to them just for knowledge. All in all, by fostering transparency, differentiation, and synergy within the supply chain, the industry can ensure the sustainable growth of both segments, securing a bright future for diamond jewelry on a global scale.
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