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De Beers India MD Calls for Better Tech to Distinguish Synthetic and Natural Diamonds

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De Beers India managing director Amit Pratihari expressed concerns over the lack of transparency in synthetic diamond sales, emphasizing the importance of clear disclosure to consumers. He highlighted the need for proper certification and reliable grading institutions to distinguish natural diamonds from lab-grown ones, adding that the company’s in-house lab, which used to serve only De Beers brands, is now available to other retailers as well. The natural diamond industry, he noted, is collaborating with the Gems and Jewellery Exports Promotion Council and the government to standardize quality certifications and grading parameters.

While Pratihari does not view the synthetic diamond market as direct competition, he acknowledges the growing popularity of lab-grown diamonds and the need for regulation to ensure consumers are well-informed. India, following the Federation Trade Commission (FTC) guidelines, now mandates that synthetic diamonds be clearly labeled as such, with further developments expected in grading standards.

In terms of retail growth, De Beers is optimistic about India’s diamond market, projecting it will grow from $8.5 billion in 2024 to $17 billion by 2030. To tap into this potential, the company plans to significantly increase its retail presence, including opening 100 exclusive outlets for its Forevermark brand, with the goal of reaching $100 million in sales by 2030.

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DiamondBuzz

GIA Puzzled by Rare Starburst Inclusions in Yellow Diamond

A 2.50-carat yellow diamond shows never-before-seen starburst cloud formations, prompting deeper investigation by GIA scientists.

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The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) recently encountered an exceptionally unusual diamond that defied easy explanation. The 2.50-carat round brilliant, graded at the institute’s Carlsbad, California, laboratory, displayed star-shaped inclusions so distinctive that researchers struggled to pinpoint their origin.

According to research “several randomly distributed yellow zones consisting of stacks of clouds with four-sided star patterns near the girdle noticed in the diamond.” These clouds—clusters of micro-inclusions—each contained a central concentration of more intensely colored particles arranged in a cross-like formation. When viewed from an alternate angle, the phenomenon appeared as a row of bright-yellow overlapping triangles, prompting the GIA to launch an in-depth analysis.

Initial observations revealed blue fluorescence under long-wave UV light, while the clouded yellow patches displayed weak yellow fluorescence under deep-UV imaging. Testing also indicated the presence of hydrogen-related defects, typically associated with brownish or greenish color components. However, these did not explain the intense yellow coloration of the zones, which is more commonly linked to cape defects, H3 centers, isolated nitrogen (C-centers), or a 480-nanometer absorption band.

To probe further, GIA scientists used photoluminescence spectroscopy to compare the yellow zones with surrounding areas. The results showed no signs of H3-related features or absorption-band activity. The only notable finding was a nitrogen-vacancy center present exclusively within the vivid yellow areas, suggesting the coloration stemmed from C-centers confined to specific surface regions.

The lab initially considered whether the diamond might resemble a case reported in 2020, in which a near-colorless diamond developed a yellow overgrowth layer late in formation. However, the composition and behavior of the current stone’s micro-inclusion clouds did not align with that scenario.

GIA researchers concluded that the origin and formation of the starburst-like micro-inclusions remain unknown — a mystery that will require further investigation.

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JewelBuzz is Asia’s First Digital Jewellery Media & India’s No.1 B2B Jewellery Magazine, published by AM Media House. Since 2016, we’ve been the trusted source for jewellery news, market trends, trade insights, exhibitions, podcasts, and brand stories, connecting jewellers, retailers, and industry professionals worldwide.

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