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De Beers India MD Calls for Better Tech to Distinguish Synthetic and Natural Diamonds

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De Beers India managing director Amit Pratihari expressed concerns over the lack of transparency in synthetic diamond sales, emphasizing the importance of clear disclosure to consumers. He highlighted the need for proper certification and reliable grading institutions to distinguish natural diamonds from lab-grown ones, adding that the company’s in-house lab, which used to serve only De Beers brands, is now available to other retailers as well. The natural diamond industry, he noted, is collaborating with the Gems and Jewellery Exports Promotion Council and the government to standardize quality certifications and grading parameters.

While Pratihari does not view the synthetic diamond market as direct competition, he acknowledges the growing popularity of lab-grown diamonds and the need for regulation to ensure consumers are well-informed. India, following the Federation Trade Commission (FTC) guidelines, now mandates that synthetic diamonds be clearly labeled as such, with further developments expected in grading standards.

In terms of retail growth, De Beers is optimistic about India’s diamond market, projecting it will grow from $8.5 billion in 2024 to $17 billion by 2030. To tap into this potential, the company plans to significantly increase its retail presence, including opening 100 exclusive outlets for its Forevermark brand, with the goal of reaching $100 million in sales by 2030.

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CVD Synthetic Fashioned To Imitate A Rough Natural Diamond

The Near-Colorless Stone Is Believed To Be The First Time Creators Of A Synthetic Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD) Diamond Have Shaped It To Resemble A Rough Diamond

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The 6.87-carat near-colorless CVD diamond was shaped to resemble a natural rough octahedral crystal but showed distinct synthetic features under microscopic and spectroscopic analysis.GIA’s tests confirmed the stone’s synthetic origin, noting polishing marks, facet junction roughness, and luminescence patterns inconsistent with natural diamonds.

No evidence currently suggests widespread substitution of synthetics for rough natural diamonds, but existing detection tools could be adapted if such cases increase.

The near-colorless stone is believed to be the first time creators of a synthetic chemical vapor deposition (CVD) diamond have shaped it to resemble a rough diamond, according to an article in the spring issue of the institute’s Gems & Gemology quarterly journal.

Upon investigation with the use of raman spectroscopy, the results confirmed that the material was a diamond, with its near-octahedral shape similar to that of a natural rough crystal. Further analysis showed that it was not a true octahedron, as only one set of opposing faces was parallel. Microscopic observation under differential interference contrast revealed extremely flat faces marked mainly by parallel polishing lines, unlike the growth steps and trigons typically seen on natural octahedral faces. The facet junctions were extremely rough, possibly due to measures taken to improve the color, after which the main faces appear to have been repolished, the institute explained.

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