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Let us continue to harness our collective strengths, seize emerging opportunities, and embrace change with enthusiasm. (Let us) uphold our legacy of craftsmanship and integrity, and propel the industry towards unparalleled success – Vipul Shah

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The Indian gem and jewellery sector is a force to reckon with in the international GJ market. GJEPC has been the apex body driving India’s export-led growth in the gem and jewellery sector since 1966.Vipul Shah, Chairman GJEPC speaks to JewelBuzz on the initiatives, strategies for growth of the GJ industry, impact of geopolitical crisis on GJ sector and government policies and regulatory frameworks aiding the growth of Indian GJ sector.

Take us through the GJEPC roadmap for the year 2024—events and initiatives, strategies for growth of the GJ industry.

GJEPC is focused on growing India’s share of the global gem and jewellery pie. The Council also has a dual focus of driving export growth and creating job opportunities in the industry. Despite challenges faced in 2023, the industry is optimistic for the year 2024.

Efforts are directed towards sustaining and increasing exports to major markets like the USA, Hong Kong, and UAE. Additionally, the industry is exploring new markets such as the UK, Italy, France, Latin America, and Cambodia among many others.

Marketing efforts will be intensified to promote Indian gems and jewellery globally. This includes organising the IIJS, the India International Gem & Jewellery Show (IGJS) in Dubai and Jaipur, actively participating in major international gem and jewellery exhibitions; and facilitating product-specific and market-specific Buyer Seller Meets.

There is also a focus on investing in technology and innovation to enhance productivity, efficiency, and competitiveness. GJEPC, in collaboration with the Ministry of Commerce & Industry and SEEPZ, has launched a Mega Common Facility Center in SEEPZ Mumbai. This initiative aims to increase manufacturing capacities, drive technological advancements, and provide extensive skill development opportunities. Importantly, the services offered will benefit both SEEPZ and Domestic Tariff Area (DTA) units, reflecting inclusivity and industry-wide progress.

The geopolitical crisis and G7 sanctions banning Russian diamonds are major concerns. What is the impact on Indian diamond industry with the manufacturing sector affected drastically with shortage of rough diamonds?

The G7/EU has considered March 1st to August 31st as the “Sunrise Period.” During this phase, the US has opted for self-certification for import shipment clearance, while the EU provides two alternatives: G7 certification and a documentary evidence-based system, facilitating Indian trade in importing goods directly to India using the documentary evidence option. Certain countries allow Mixed Origin relaxation, subject to documentary evidence. The UK has provided clarification on Grandfathering diamonds movement and the necessary procedures. As of March 1, 2024, the immediate impact of G7 sanctions appears relatively manageable, with the industry adjusting to uphold support documents, coordinate two supply chains, and comprehend country-specific requirements for legal compliance. While it is still early, being only 3 weeks into the sanctions, inquiries and feedback from members are being actively received and assessed to gain a comprehensive understanding of the situation.

How are government policies and regulatory frameworks aiding the growth of Indian GJ sector?

Based on its potential for growth and value addition, the Government of India has declared the Gems and Jewellery sector as a focus area for export promotion. Over the years, through trade-friendly policies, the government has facilitated a remarkable surge in gem and jewellery exports, which now stand at USD 40 billion.

The recent Free Trade Agreements with key partners such as the UAE, Australia, and the European Free Trade Association (EFTA) countries—Switzerland, Iceland, Norway, and Liechtenstein—hold substantial promise for further boosting Indian gem and jewellery exports.

However, to enhance the industry’s competitiveness in global markets and ensure sustainable development, several measures have been proposed to the government:

  • Safe harbour rule for sale of rough diamonds in Special Notified Zones (SNZs)
  • Introduction of Diamond Imprest License and reduction in import duty on cut & polished diamonds to 2.5%
  • Reduction in import duty on gold/silver/platinum bars to 4%
  • Introduction of a mechanism like “Rates & Taxes Refund” through EDI system similar to GST refund.

Despite the various challenges there is always a positive spirit. What is your message to the GJ industry?

Despite facing challenges, the Indian gem and jewellery industry has always shown resilience, relying on its renowned craftsmanship and skills recognized worldwide.

Understanding its inherent strengths, the industry perceives setbacks as temporary hurdles, consistently striving for improvement by integrating the latest technologies. Today, it stands capable of meeting the diverse demands of global markets.

My message to the GJ industry is simple: Let us continue to harness our collective strengths, seize emerging opportunities, and embrace change with enthusiasm. Together, we can navigate through any adversity, upholding our legacy of craftsmanship and integrity, and propel the industry towards unparalleled success.

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JB Insights

Unleashing creativity: the design freedom offered by lab-grown diamonds

By Lisa Mukhedkar-Founder and CEO Aukera- Lab Grown Diamond Jewellery

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Lisa Mukhedkar is the Founder of Aukera- Lab Grown Diamond Jeweller

Lab-grown diamonds are emerging as a compelling alternative to traditionally mined stones in the dynamic world of fine jewellery. As dazzling as their natural counterparts in brilliance, durability, and composition, these lab-made marvels are not just rewriting the rules of luxury but also redefining what it means to wear jewellery, with conscience and creativity.

What truly sets lab-grown diamonds apart, however, is the extraordinary design freedom they offer. With greater availability and more accessible price points—nearly 30-40% lower than mined diamonds—designers and consumers alike are no longer restricted by cost when it comes to scale, setting, or innovation. Larger, high-quality stones can be incorporated into custom designs, allowing bold artistic visions to flourish without compromise.

India’s lab-grown diamond jewellery market, pegged at $264.5 million in 2022, will grow at 14.8% CAGR, reaching $1,192.3 million by 2033, as per an ET Retail report. This explains the shift in consumer mindset, particularly evident among younger buyers, who are seeking jewellery that reflects their values and personal stories. Engagement rings, in particular, have become deeply personal artefacts—designed not just to symbolise love but to express individuality. Many couples are veering away from the conventional solitaire and opting for coloured stones, unique cuts, asymmetry, and mixed metal bands. From astrological motifs and birthstones to rings that incorporate the story of a couple’s journey, the emphasis is on crafting a ring that speaks of individuality.

Designers are responding to this demand with greater creative freedom, made possible by the versatility and easy availability of lab-grown diamonds. These diamonds enable quick customisation with technical precision, allowing customers to bring their unique visions to life, without the steep price tag or ethical ambiguity of mined stones.

This creative liberation is fuelling a wave of experimentation in contemporary jewellery design. There’s a noticeable move toward mixing metals—pairing white and yellow gold or combining rose gold with platinum—to create unique, expressive pieces. Asymmetrical settings, bold colour contrasts, and unorthodox stone placements are also on the rise, making each piece a true reflection of the wearer’s personality.

Even men’s jewellery is seeing a shift, with lab-grown diamonds being used in refined, minimalist styles like cufflinks, bands, and bracelets. These modern pieces reflect not just personal style but also an alignment with sustainable and ethical values—key concerns for today’s consumer.

With a far lower price tag but the same clarity, brilliance, and sparkle, lab-grown diamonds stand out for their sheer versatility. You no longer have to burn a hole in your finances to own jewellery that’s both trendy and just as dazzling as mined diamonds.

Moreover, lab-grown diamonds are ushering in a more democratic era of bespoke design. Thanks to advances in production and design technology, custom creations can now be brought to life rapidly and with exacting detail. This opens doors for more people to own jewellery that is not only beautiful but also meaningful and responsibly sourced.

Ultimately, lab-grown diamonds are not just about sustainability or savings—they are about creative freedom. As the boundaries of jewellery design expand, these stones enable consumers and designers to dream bigger, bolder, and express more freely. 

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By Invitation

Mangalsutra market glows with steady 11% growth rate

by Tanvi shah 
Director & Head – CareEdge Advisory & Research

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Tanvi shah -Director & Head – CareEdge Advisory & Research

The gems and jewellery market has clocked a healthy CAGR of 11% from CY20-24, to reach at Rs. 8,110 billion in CY24.  A similar growth trajectory is expected to continue in the next 5 years. Furthermore, bangles and chains hold a large share in the overall jewellery market. As consumer preferences evolve, the Indian jewellery sector is undergoing notable transformation. Central to this shift is the Mangalsutra—a piece that embodies both cultural heritage and modern sensibility. Traditionally revered as a symbol of marital unity and prosperity, the Mangalsutra has maintained its cultural significance while aligning with contemporary aesthetics and changing lifestyles.

The Mangalsutra market has grown at over 10% compounded annual growth rate (CAGR) over the past five years and estimated to be Rs 190 billion in CY24(E).  With the consistently rising number of weddings in India, the market is set to expand steadily and is expected to surpass Rs 250 billion by CY29.

Weddings: The Prime Driver of Demand

Weddings remain the key driver of Mangalsutra purchases, with the ornament continuing to symbolize matrimony across communities. As weddings evolve—especially with greater financial independence among millennial couples—buying behaviours are also shifting. While 80–82% of wedding expenses are still covered through savings, around 10% rely on loans and 6–8% liquidate assets.

In 2024, India recorded 124.3 lakh weddings, marking a strong post-pandemic momentum. This upward trend continued from earlier years and is expected to accelerate, with weddings projected to reach 180.8 lakh by 2032, registering a CAGR of 4.8%. This growth is also fuelling demand for bridal jewellery, underscoring the wedding sector’s resilience and its rising contribution to the national economy.

Chart 1: Total Number of Weddings in India, CY2024-32

Source: Industry Sources, CareEdge Research



A necklace on a blue surface

AI-generated content may be incorrect.
Source: Industry Sources, CareEdge Research

The rise of destination weddings and thematic ceremonies has prompted demand for multiple Mangalsutra designs. Brides now seek elaborate gold pieces for traditional rituals and minimalist styles for more modern or informal functions. This shift has encouraged jewellers to diversify their offerings, enabling repeat purchases beyond the initial wedding.

Evolving Designs: A Fusion of Style and Sentiment

Although traditional Mangalsutras—characterised by black beads and gold links—continue to dominate, capturing a 62% share of the market in CY24, the preference for modern alternatives is rising. Designs featuring sleek lines, diamonds, and mixed metals now comprise 32% of the market and resonate particularly with younger, urban consumers who prioritise versatility and style.

Chart 2: Indian Mangalsutra Market: Break-up by Design (% share) for CY24(E)

                                                                         Source: CareEdge Research

Customisation has emerged as a notable trend. Consumers increasingly request bespoke elements, including unique pendant shapes, gemstone settings, and tailored chain lengths. Presently, customised Mangalsutras account for approximately 5% of the market. Jewellers are responding by embracing advanced design technologies and personalised consultations, enabling them to cater to diverse tastes and preferences.

Material preferences reflect shifting choices considering prices 

Gold remains the market leader in Mangalsutra, and 22K gold accounts for 52% of the share because of its long-standing tradition of symbolizing security and affluence. Nevertheless, an price increase—from around Rs 67,175 per 10 grams during April 2024 to Rs 90,050 as of 24th April 2025—has forced consumers to question their decisions, tending towards lighter or affordable options.

Chart 3: Indian Mangalsutra market breakup by material type (% share) for CY24(E)

 

Source: CareEdge Research

Note: Others include Beads, Synthetic Metals, Semi-Precious stones,  etc.

Silver Mangalsutras, now commanding a 31% share, offer an affordable and wearable alternative. Their simplicity appeals to younger consumers who seek practical, everyday options. Meanwhile, diamond Mangalsutras hold a 12% market share, gaining popularity among those who value elegance and symbolic distinction. Fusion designs, incorporating gold, silver, and diamonds, are also gaining ground as jewellers strive to serve a broader demographic.

Market Outlook: Strong sentiment supporting healthy sales growth

Gold Mangalsutras continue to represent nearly 52.3% of the total market, but interest in alternative silver or diamond variants is also attracting more consumers. Going forward, these changing consumer preferences will encourage many new replacement and repeat purchases, creating fresh opportunities for jewellers.

In contrast to the overall demand for gold jewellery, which declined by 2.3 percent year-on-year in CY24, the Mangalsutra market demonstrated remarkable resilience by maintaining double-digit growth. As weddings continued and consumer preferences evolved, the Mangalsutra adapted accordingly embracing new and exciting designs without compromising its cultural significance.

A commitment symbol and a personal style will keep it constantly relevant in India’s jewellery landscape, full of diversity and dynamism.

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International News

U.S. gold prices decline on geopolitical and economic developments

By Steve Fernandes

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U.S. gold prices have experienced a notable decline, falling from a recent high of $3,509 to $3,310. This $199 drop can be attributed to a combination of geopolitical and economic developments that have reduced market demand for safe-haven assets.

Key Factors Driving the Decline

  1. Stability in U.S. Monetary Policy
    Investor concerns over potential instability in U.S. monetary policy were mitigated following former President Donald Trump’s remarks reaffirming his support for Federal Reserve Chair Jerome Powell. By ruling out any intention to replace Powell, Trump contributed to a sense of continuity and stability in monetary leadership, reducing speculative demand for gold.
  2. Positive Signals in U.S.-China Trade Relations
    Sentiment was further boosted by optimistic statements from Trump regarding ongoing trade negotiations with China. His characterization of the discussions as “progressing positively” and his expressed confidence in achieving a mutually beneficial agreement have lowered immediate fears of trade disruptions, easing the flight to gold.
  3. Geopolitical Easing in Eastern Europe
    Russian President Vladimir Putin’s willingness to initiate talks with Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy has raised hopes for a ceasefire agreement. This development has encouraged a shift in investor sentiment toward riskier assets, further weakening gold’s appeal as a safe haven.

Contrasting Forecast: Bullish Outlook from JP Morgan
Despite the current decline, JP Morgan has issued a bullish long-term outlook, projecting that gold prices could exceed $4,000 per ounce by Q2 2026. The forecast is driven by concerns over a potential U.S. recession and the impact of renewed trade tensions stemming from Trump-era tariffs.
The recent decline in gold prices underscores the complexity and volatility of today’s economic landscape. While current developments have encouraged a risk-on sentiment, longer-term forecasts suggest persistent uncertainty could reignite demand for gold. In a volatile, uncertain, complex, and ambiguous (VUCA) world, forecasting commodity movements remains inherently challenging.

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