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India’s 90-Day Golden Opportunity: A strategic opening for the GJ sector

By Akash Talesara-President : Sky Gold and Diamonds

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The escalating U.S.-China trade tensions have ignited a unique 90-day opportunity for India’s gems and jewellery industry to shine on the global stage. As tariffs continue to rise and Western markets look to diversify away from China, India is strategically poised to position itself as a preferred sourcing and manufacturing hub particularly in this high-value, high-potential sector.

Historically, India has been a global leader in jewellery craftsmanship, diamond cutting and polishing, and gemstone artistry. But the current geopolitical climate gives Indian players a chance to elevate their role not just as artisans, but as end-to-end partners in global jewellery supply chains.

With the United States imposing higher duties on Chinese-made jewellery, American retailers are now actively scouting for reliable alternative suppliers. This opens the door for Indian manufacturers to capture larger market share, especially in the mass luxury and bridal segments, where India already enjoys a reputation for design excellence and cost competitiveness.

At the heart of this opportunity lies India’s unmatched ecosystem—skilled labour, centuries of artisanal knowledge, robust manufacturing clusters (like Surat, Jaipur, and Mumbai), and a growing capacity to meet global compliance and sustainability standards. Moreover, India’s capabilities extend beyond traditional jewellery. There’s rising global demand for lightweight gold jewellery, lab-grown diamonds, and fashion-forward fine jewellery areas where Indian exporters are already gaining traction.

Our recent interactions with export customers. During a recent product showcase, leading buyers expressed strong interest in collections crafted specifically for Western tastes underscoring India’s ability to blend heritage with modernity. This validation is a reminder that design innovation and responsiveness to international trends will be key to long-term success.

To truly unlock this opportunity, however, India’s jewellery industry must move swiftly. First, it needs to streamline supply chains, reduce production turnaround times, and invest in smart manufacturing technologies that enhance precision and scale. Second, the industry should embrace aggressive branding and global outreach. India shouldn’t just be seen as a backup to China but as a premium, scalable partner in jewellery innovation and quality.

Government support can further catalyze this growth. Export-friendly policies, faster GST refunds, improved logistics infrastructure, and promotional efforts through trade bodies like GJEPC can make a significant difference. Additionally, a stronger digital presence and participation in global B2B platforms can help connect Indian brands with buyers in the U.S., Europe, and the Middle East.

This 90-day window isn’t just a temporary trade detour it’s a turning point for India’s gems and jewellery sector. If approached strategically, it could transform India’s global standing from a traditional exporter to a next-generation jewellery powerhouse—trusted not just for quality and design, but for scale, innovation, and reliability.

In a world rebalancing its trade partnerships, India’s moment to sparkle has arrived. And it’s wrapped in gold, glitter, and a once-in-a-generation opportunity.

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Natural diamonds have to rediscover their relevance to a jaded consumer that wants to separate themselves from the past

By Edahn Golan

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Martyn Charles Marriott, drawing on 45 years in the diamond industry, in a blog  titled Co-Operation between African Diamond Producers on the IDMA website, advocates for a new era of co-operation among African diamond producers, seeing the current debate around De Beers’ future as an opportunity. He proposes forming a diamond “OPEC,” reminiscent of the stability once maintained by the Oppenheimers’ Central Selling Organization (CSO). The CSO, through a stockpile, quota system, and vast generic advertising  historically benefited the entire industry. Marriott believes a collective entity involving nations like Botswana and Angola would be more stable and bankable than a single-country approach.

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JewelBuzz spoke to noted diamond industry analyst Edahn Golanon his take on Marriott’s view and how practical and feasible this “ nostalgic yearning” was. This is what Edahn Golan has to say:

I don’t think that resurrecting a monopoly is possible, much less legal. I understand the nostalgic yearning for the ‘good old days,’ but that is not where the solution will be found. On the contrary, the industry at large – and De Beers in particular – needs to evolve and adapt. They both need to reinvent themselves. 

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Natural diamonds have to rediscover their relevance to a jaded consumer that wants to separate themselves from the past, a consumer market that wants luxury that doesn’t shout bling. Most importantly, diamonds should stand for values that are relevant to today’s cultural norms. 

That is where diamonds will find their future, not by reimposing tight control on the pipeline.

I also read Chaim Even-Zohar’s column. I worked with him for many years and hold deep respect for both him and his approach to the industry. 

That said, I believe Botswana does not need to go all in on owning De Beers.The country already receives more than 75% of the diamond revenue generated locally, along with a portion of the revenue De Beers earns from its operations in Namibia, Canada, and South Africa. Expanding that share or seeking a larger cut from other countries would only deepen Botswana’s dependency on diamonds.

Instead, Botswana should diversify its income sources and invest more internally, a process it should have initiated more than a decade ago. 

For example, if it channels investment into its international airport and succeeds in expanding tourism, the country would generate greater income, reduce its reliance on luxury sales, improve foreign currency inflows, and, in the process, expose more of the world to its diamonds.

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JewelBuzz is Asia’s First Digital Jewellery Media & India’s No.1 B2B Jewellery Magazine, published by AM Media House. Since 2016, we’ve been the trusted source for jewellery news, market trends, trade insights, exhibitions, podcasts, and brand stories, connecting jewellers, retailers, and industry professionals worldwide.

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