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Groundbreaking Collection Highlights Possibilities for 3D-Printed Platinum Jewellery Design

Platinum Guild International Leads Efforts to Expand Platinum’s Production Capabilities Using 3D Printing Technology with Tùsaire Collection by Maeve Gillies

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Platinum Guild International (PGI) continues to champion technological advancements in platinum jewellery design and fabrication with a ground-breaking development in 3D printing. The innovative Tùsaire collection, created by Scottish-American jewellery designer Maeve Gillies using 3D printing technology, is the first platinum-based collection of its kind to be launched commercially.

The Tùsaire Collection is named after the Scottish Gaelic word for “pioneer” and features jewellery made from platinum and titanium, including necklaces, bracelets, earrings, and rings that highlight the potential of 3D printed platinum in the realm of jewellery design and fabrication.

While sharing this latest development in the platinum jewellery market at ORIGINALLUXURY’s 5th Roundtable event in Geneva in May 2025, which brought together 150 luxury, technology and finance stakeholders, PGI’s CEO Tim Schlick explained, “We needed to put 3D printing of platinum to the test, to identify the advantages and challenges, in the hope of expediting the technology’s application in making precious jewellery and its ability to create novel designs and experiences. There is no doubt additive manufacturing will be very important for the future of jewellery as it unlocks so many new possibilities.”

While 3D printing was already an established technology for jewellery production, the launch of the Tùsaire collection beautifully demonstrates the decorative, scale and structural potential for 3D printed platinum jewellery. For example, the 3D printing and precious metal powder technology used have enabled the crafting of intricate, unique shapes that would be impossible to achieve otherwise, such as lattices, hollow structures and detailed textures. As Mr. Schlick noted during the workshop, “We are just beginning to understand how platinum can create new emotional and practical value in 3D printing, not only through how it looks, but how it is made, owned, and experienced.”

“This moment marks a pivotal opportunity for platinum to redefine its role in luxury through creativity, cross-sector collaboration, and future-ready innovation,” said Margot Stuart, co-founder of ORIGINALLUXURY and OriginAll S.A..

 “As most of my work is in diamond bridal jewellery fabrication, I learned through experience that platinum is the ideal bridal metal due to its strength, resilience, and suitability for diamond design innovation. For this 3D-printed jewellery collection, my knowledge of platinum was invaluable in allowing me to design new solutions with the printing technology, helping to transform platinum into new jewellery looks and categories,” said Gillies about her experience designing and developing the 3D-printed jewellery.

The direct metal printing of the platinum pieces was completed by the Italian-based company ProGold, which utilises metal laser powder bed fusion and other technologies to develop and produce parts from precious metals for a range of industries.

“Due to platinum’s high tenacity, strength and high melting temperature, it enables the highest quality of structural integrity with precise heat control. Its good light absorption and low reflectivity also make platinum a comparatively energy-efficient metal for printing with lasers.”  Tai Wong, Director of Innovations and Product Development at PGI shares. “Platinum’s metal attributes are superior for processes like laser powder bed fusion, and we found the best of platinum’s strength and shine are optimised by direct metal printing.”

The technology catapults platinum into new types of jewellery by enabling the creation of larger silhouettes that were previously impossible because platinum is traditionally a heavier, denser, and more expensive metal. However, platinum is currently highly desirable, partly because its price makes it more affordable than gold.

“This is such an interesting time in the industry because technologies are coming in thick and fast. At the same time, craft has never been more important for people to preserve and understand the process and the possibilities of new materials and new ways of expressing and pushing more towards what platinum can do,” added Ms. Gillies.

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Legor’s 3D Metal Binder Jetting technology is revolutionizing metal additive manufacturing

Entry of US$25 bn in Chinese insurance funds into the gold market

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Legor Group SPA, based in Vicenza, Italy, has over forty years of experience in creating high-quality metal alloys and solutions for the jewellery, luxury, and fashion industries. Building on this expertise, Legor launched the 3D Metal Hub-a center dedicated to experimenting with and producing both precious and non-precious metal components using advanced 3D Metal Binder Jet technology. This tech is  promoting a new way of creating jewellery and fashion accessories by exploiting the full potential of metal additive manufacturing.

Legor 3D Metal Hub

The Legor 3D Metal Hub is an innovative facility where progress, innovation, and sustainability come together. Its main focus is to use 3D Metal Binder Jetting (BJT) technology to create jewellery, fashion accessories, and industrial parts. This technology allows for the production of complex metal pieces without the need for traditional molds or casting methods.

How 3D Metal Binder Jetting works

The process involves several key steps:

Printing: Ultra-fine metal powder (such as stainless steel AISI 316L) is spread in thin layers. A liquid binder is selectively applied to each layer based on a digital 3D model, bonding the powder where needed.

Curing: The printed object is gently heated to harden the binder, forming a fragile “green” part that holds its shape but is not yet strong.

Sintering: The part is heated in a special oven. The binder evaporates, and the metal particles fuse together, creating a solid metal piece. The part is then cooled carefully to avoid cracks.

Advantages over traditional methods

Legor’s 3D Metal Jet Printing offers several benefits compared to traditional investment casting:

No combustion: The process does not burn waxes or resins, nor does it use gypsum, making it cleaner and more environmentally friendly.

Sustainability: Leftover metal powder can be reused, resulting in zero material waste.

Design Freedom: Designers can create intricate, hollow, or interlocking shapes that would be difficult or impossible with traditional methods. No molds or support structures are needed, allowing for quick prototyping and custom designs.

Efficiency: Multiple different pieces can be printed at once, speeding up production and reducing costs, especially for small or custom runs.

Materials and Applications

Currently, Legor uses materials like stainless steel (AISI 316L), bronze, silver, and platinum, with plans to expand into gold alloys. This technology is ideal for the jewellery and fashion sectors, but also has potential for broader industrial applications.

Impact on the Industry

By introducing the 3D Metal Hub, Legor Group is leading the way in sustainable, precise, and innovative metal manufacturing. The company encourages designers and manufacturers to rethink how jewellery and accessories are made, pushing creative boundaries and supporting a more sustainable future for the industry.Legor’s 3D Metal Hub is transforming metal design and production, offering a greener, faster, and more flexible alternative to traditional methods, and opening up new possibilities for both established and emerging designers. 

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TechBuzz

IGI Reports Double-Digit Revenue Growth as Demand Surges for Both Lab-Grown and Natural Diamond Certification

Strong performance across all segments boosts Q1 revenue and profit; IGI plans lab expansion and tech upgrades to meet rising demand.

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The International Gemological Institute (IGI) reported robust financial results for the first quarter, driven by increased demand for certification of both lab-grown and natural diamonds. Revenue rose 10% year-on-year to INR 3 billion ($35.8 million) for the three months ending March 31, marking a 15% increase over the previous quarter.

Growth was seen across all certification segments. Loose natural-diamond certification rose 1% year-on-year, accounting for 16% of IGI’s operations. Certification of loose lab-grown diamonds grew 9%, making up the majority of the business at 54%. Grading of natural-diamond jewelry surged 21%, while lab-grown jewelry grading recorded an impressive 87% increase. These segments now represent 21% and 7% of the company’s business, respectively.

Net profit climbed 12% year-on-year to INR 1.41 billion ($16.5 million), and rose 24% compared to the previous quarter.



“The company has seen strong growth momentum across all its segments compared to the previous quarter as well as the first quarter of the last financial year,” said IGI CEO Tehmasp Printer. “Along with our core segments of natural-diamond certification and lab-grown diamond certification, we are also seeing strong demand for certification of natural diamond and lab-grown diamond jewelry, which will further accelerate the growth of our business.”

To support this rising demand, IGI announced plans to expand its laboratory capacity and invest in technology aimed at increasing operational efficiency and reducing turnaround time for services.

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TechBuzz

Fine Jewelry Reimagined: Jewelex and Ultrahuman Reveal ‘Rare’, the World’s First Luxury Smart Ring

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Jewelex, a revered name in fine diamond jewelry, and Ultrahuman, a pioneer in wearable technology, have come together to combine time-honored craftsmanship legacy with cutting-edge health technology with Ultrahuman Rare, the world’s first luxury smart ring.

At the heart of Rare lies a profound respect for artistry and precision. Jewelex, with a heritage spanning over 59 years, has continually set new benchmarks in diamond and jewelry craftsmanship. Their legacy is defined by innovation, where advanced metalworking techniques enhance traditional artistry, ensuring exceptional detail and consistency in every creation.

Rare embodies the seamless fusion of meticulous craftsmanship and precision engineering. Leveraging cutting-edge CNC machining, the ring’s intricate design is executed with micron-level accuracy. While machines deliver exacting precision, the final touch is entrusted to skilled artisans – who then polish and refine each piece to ensure warmth, character, and the unmistakable essence of true craftsmanship.

Jewelex integrates sustainability into every facet of its Rare’s manufacturing, operating on 100% renewable energy since January 2023. Rainwater harvesting at its corporate headquarters further supports resource conservation. By continuously investing in clean energy and eco-friendly practices, it reaffirms its commitment to a greener future in fine jewelry.

On the other end of this union, Ultrahuman has reimagined wearable technology through its mission of health optimization. From the world’s lightest sleep-tracking wearable, the Ultrahuman Ring AIR, to the advanced Ultrahuman M1 continuous glucose monitoring platform and the revolutionary Ultrahuman Home health monitoring device, the company has been at the forefront of turning health data into actionable intelligence.

Ultrahuman Rare was unveiled at the world’s premier technology event, Consumer Electronics Show (CES) 2025 in Las Vegas, marking a defining moment in the evolution of fine jewelry.

Rare launched with the “Desert Collection”, featuring three distinctive designs: Desert Rose, Dune, and Desert Snow. Inspired by nature’s most captivating landscapes, these pieces reflect the fluid elegance of wind-sculpted dunes, embodying the balance of beauty and resilience found in arid terrains.

  • Dune and Desert Rose rings are meticulously crafted from 18K Gold, sourced exclusively from London Bullion Market Association (LBMA)-approved refineries and hallmarked by the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS), ensuring the highest standards of authenticity and quality.
  • Desert Snow is engineered from Pt950 platinum, a metal renowned for its rarity and prestige. 

Commenting on the partnership, Bobby Kothari, Jewelry CEO, Jewelex India Pvt Ltd, stated, “The power of collaboration lies in the ability to bring together diverse strengths. This partnership demonstrates that when traditionally separate industries unite, the potential for growth and innovation is limitless. This is a prime example of how cross-industry synergy can redefine consumer experiences.”

Each Rare ring begins its journey in Jewelex’s expert hands before making its way to UltraFactory, Ultrahuman’s advanced manufacturing facilities in Plano, Texas, and Bengaluru, India.

Here, the skilled artisan-crafted fine jewellery is transformed through intricate manufacturing processes into Rare.

Precision-engineered PCBs, 6-axis motion sensors, and medical-grade temperature sensors are meticulously integrated into the ring’s structure. A proprietary resin casting process ensures seamless embedding of technology while maintaining the aesthetic integrity of the jewelry. Each ring, available in sizes 5 to 14, undergoes extensive testing and multiple rounds of quality control, ensuring impeccable performance and craftsmanship.

Finally, Ultrahuman’s custom-programmed firmware is updated on Rare. These firmware updates are designed to be seamless, ensuring that Rare continuously evolves through adaptive software that’s unique.

Mohit Kumar, Founder & CEO, Ultrahuman, added, “Our collaboration with Jewelex brings together two worlds: their legacy of craftsmanship and our expertise in cutting-edge health technology, redefining fine jewelry in the age of wearables.

With Rare, we’re catering to individuals who want their health journey to be as elegant and meaningful as the rest of their lives. The possibilities ahead are limitless.”

Rare made its grand debut in two iconic capitals of luxury: Paris and London.

  • Selfridges London, an emblem of modern luxury, is where heritage and innovation converge to redefine the retail experience.
  • Printemps Paris, with its Belle Époque grandeur, embodies the spirit of Parisian chic through its exquisite curation of global luxury.

Rare’s perfect blend of heritage and future brings the world a statement of sophistication, where old-world artistry meets the future of wearable intelligence, offering an unparalleled experience of beauty, craftsmanship, and technology.

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