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EMERALDS : Radiating Greens – Captivating Hearts

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Akash Talesara

 VP: Design & Merchandising, Asian Star Group

Green is an emerging jewellery trend

Conjures imagery of vibrant and captivating pieces that prominently feature green gemstones. Emeralds have catapulted back into the limelight, stealing canter stage once again, all credits to Nita Ambani’s dazzling necklace at the recent Ambani pre-wedding extravaganza in Jamnagar. The event not only showcased extravagant celebrations but also showcased a myriad of premium handcrafted jewellery that had social media buzzing. Among the myriad gemstones adorning the guests, it was the emerald-studded pieces that garnered the most attention, igniting a fresh wave of interest in this timeless gemstone.

Nita Ambani, radiant as the mother of the groom, donned a custom Kanchipuram silk saree by the celebrated Manish Malhotra. Yet, it was her show-stopping jewellery that truly stole the show – an emerald and diamond necklace, adorned with pairs of emeralds and culminating in two sizable chunks of the mesmerizing green gemstone. The choice of emeralds, not only by Nita but also by her daughter Isha Ambani, underscores the enduring allure and timeless elegance of this precious stone.

History of emerald gemstones

The resurgence of emerald jewellery isn’t just a passing trend; it reflects evolving tastes in the precious jewellery industry. Emeralds, with their rich history dating back to at least 330 BC in Egypt, have remained one of the world’s most coveted gemstones. Their rarity, attributed to highly specific geological conditions, contributes to their mystique. As a variety of the beryl mineral, emeralds owe their striking green color to chromium impurities, setting them apart from other gemstones.

Interestingly, emeralds are approximately 20 times rarer than diamonds, making them a symbol of exclusivity and luxury. While diamonds undergo extensive grading processes, emeralds often display visible inclusions, which are embraced as part of their inherent beauty. These imperfections, affectionately referred to as the “garden” by the French, add character to each emerald, making it truly unique.

Resurgence of emeralds in high end jewellery

The resurgence of emerald jewellery is not merely a passing trend but a reflection of evolving tastes in the precious jewellery industry. Jewellers are increasingly incorporating emeralds into their designs, recognizing their timeless elegance and versatility. From statement necklaces to delicate earrings, emeralds are making a splash in the world of high-end jewellery, appealing to those who seek sophistication and individuality in their accessories. Emeralds exude class and elegance, making them a coveted choice for discerning jewellery enthusiasts.

While large emeralds remain rare and are often reserved for high jewellery, they are not entirely out of reach. Jewellers continue to explore innovative ways to incorporate emeralds into their designs, offering a range of options to suit different tastes and budgets.

The symbolism and significance of emeralds 

Emeralds have long been associated with various symbolic meanings. In addition to representing fertility and rebirth, emeralds have been associated with love, wisdom, and intuition. They are often seen as a symbol of hope and renewal, making them popular choices for engagement rings and other meaningful jewellery.

The resurgence of emerald jewellery is a testament to its enduring appeal, offering a touch of luxury and sophistication to any ensemble. Whether worn as a symbol of love and prosperity or simply as a fashion statement, emeralds exude a timeless charm that transcends trends. As we bask in the post-Ambani wedding glow, it’s clear that emeralds are reclaiming their status as the gemstone of choice for those who appreciate the finer things in life.

As the latest trend in the precious jewellery industry, emeralds are set to shine brightly for years to come, captivating hearts with their enchanting beauty and rich history.

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Artisan Perspectives: Rethinking Craft In The Age Of Lab-Grown Stones

Prapanjj S K Kota
Founder & CEO at Réia Diamonds

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  • Traditionally, diamond value was driven by rarity, origin, and size, with craftsmanship playing a secondary role.
  • With the rise of lab-grown diamonds, abundance is shifting focus from rarity to design and craftsmanship.
  • Jewellery-making is returning to a craft-first approach, placing artisans at the core of value creation.
  • Skill, precision, and finishing quality are becoming primary differentiators.

The rarity of diamonds has historically dictated their market value, and most of the conversation surrounding a diamond’s value has revolved around where (and how rare) it came from, and how large it was. While craftsmanship has always been important, it has often remained secondary, simply supporting the diamond rather than receiving the buyer’s focus.

As lab-grown diamonds begin to enter the market in greater numbers, the conversation surrounding them is also changing. With an increasing supply of diamonds, being a differentiating factor in jewellery becomes much more about design, craftsmanship, and the quality of work than about rarity.

For artisans, this shift means that the focus of making jewellery has returned to the craft itself.

From a technical perspective, lab-grown diamonds do not affect the fundamentals of jewellery making. They will continue to have the same hardness, brilliance, and structural properties that natural diamonds do; therefore, using traditional setting techniques, including precision settings, pavé work, micro-setting, and polishing, will be just as essential. While the tools may be more modern, the knowledge to work with diamonds continues to be based on many years of training and experience.

The major change comes with the new opportunities presented by working with lab-created stones.

Designers are utilising the increased access to stones to try new layouts incorporating a greater focus on symmetry, scale and intricate detail. As jewellery changes, so does its craftsmanship. Today, with designs that involve numerous stones, layered settings, and modern silhouettes, artisans must have an intentional focus on the structural integrity and balance of the pieces being created, elevating their role more than ever before.

As we see craftsmanship play a supporting role to design when jewellery becomes design-centric, the specifics of how stones are aligned, how strong the setting is, and how well metal surfaces are finished will have an impact on how a piece looks, feels, and holds up over time; and therefore, they cannot be replicated with technology alone.

This change also highlights the importance of India’s historical craft traditions. Surat’s experience in the production of diamonds has established it as a leading force in the world of fine jewellery. This industry relies heavily on a team of talented craftsmen and manufacturing expertise, which plays a very important role in the overall development of jewellery that uses natural as well as lab-grown diamonds.

The introduction of lab-grown diamonds offers a fresh new direction for many artisans, as well as introducing something new into the world of fine jewellery. As it becomes less critical to know where a stone comes from, knowing the quality of the craftsmanship around a piece of jewellery will become increasingly essential. Design integrity, structural engineering, and finishing standards will all contribute to defining the real value of a finished piece.

Therefore, there is an opportunity for artisans; thoughtful design with precise execution requires a high level of technical proficiency. The better the craft, the more evident the difference is.

With the rise of lab-grown diamonds, the discussion about value will slowly evolve to include what has always been considered great jewellery: the skill, time, and craftsmanship it takes to create a piece of art from a design.

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JewelBuzz is Asia’s First Digital Jewellery Media & India’s No.1 B2B Jewellery Magazine, published by AM Media House. Since 2016, we’ve been the trusted source for jewellery news, market trends, trade insights, exhibitions, podcasts, and brand stories, connecting jewellers, retailers, and industry professionals worldwide.

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