By Invitation
Electroformed GOLD Bracelet
GIA has provided a service for validating mounted gemstones in jewellery for decades. Recently, these services have been expanded to include precious metal items (rings, necklaces, and bracelets) to ensure their authenticity and ensure the metal is as stated. The service is intended to protect both buyer and seller.
As part of this service, a gold bracelet measuring 8 inches in circumference and 1.25 inches wide and weighing 41 g was recently examined in the Carlsbad laboratory (figure 1). It was submitted as 14K solid gold, but initial observations raised suspicion. The bracelet felt too light and almost hollow, and there was a significant contrast in textures: a matte finish on the inside surface of the bracelet compared with the wavy, shiny exterior surface. The bracelet had a 14K hallmark, which appeared to be stamped or engraved onto a different metal piece that was glued or otherwise adhered to the bracelet (figure 2).
X-ray fluorescence (XRF) analysis of the shiny exterior surface gave a result of 17.99K gold, and no subsurface material was detected that would indicate plating. Additional testing of another smooth surface yielded a result of 22.47K. Further analysis under brighter lighting conditions revealed areas where gold plating had flaked off from the piece (figure 3). We believe this wavy texture of the gold was used intentionally to hide the poor quality of the finish and the flaking gold plating, as shadows can often mask imperfections on initial sight.
A wax or resin material was observed under the plating, and we concluded that the bracelet had been created using electrodeposition to electroform the piece. Electroforming is a method of adding a thick gold plating, sometimes as thick as 200 microns, to a wax, resin, ceramic, or organic material base. Thick plating and electroforming may not be detected by XRF methods alone, and additional testing may be necessary to detect the application of these processes. We believe this wax- or resin-filled electroformed bracelet was being sold as solid 14K gold with the intention to deceive the buyer. This example demonstrates the importance of testing and verification services such as GIA’s jewelry verification service.
By Invitation
Natural diamonds have to rediscover their relevance to a jaded consumer that wants to separate themselves from the past
By Edahn Golan
Martyn Charles Marriott, drawing on 45 years in the diamond industry, in a blog titled Co-Operation between African Diamond Producers on the IDMA website, advocates for a new era of co-operation among African diamond producers, seeing the current debate around De Beers’ future as an opportunity. He proposes forming a diamond “OPEC,” reminiscent of the stability once maintained by the Oppenheimers’ Central Selling Organization (CSO). The CSO, through a stockpile, quota system, and vast generic advertising historically benefited the entire industry. Marriott believes a collective entity involving nations like Botswana and Angola would be more stable and bankable than a single-country approach.

JewelBuzz spoke to noted diamond industry analyst Edahn Golanon his take on Marriott’s view and how practical and feasible this “ nostalgic yearning” was. This is what Edahn Golan has to say:
I don’t think that resurrecting a monopoly is possible, much less legal. I understand the nostalgic yearning for the ‘good old days,’ but that is not where the solution will be found. On the contrary, the industry at large – and De Beers in particular – needs to evolve and adapt. They both need to reinvent themselves.

Natural diamonds have to rediscover their relevance to a jaded consumer that wants to separate themselves from the past, a consumer market that wants luxury that doesn’t shout bling. Most importantly, diamonds should stand for values that are relevant to today’s cultural norms.
That is where diamonds will find their future, not by reimposing tight control on the pipeline.
I also read Chaim Even-Zohar’s column. I worked with him for many years and hold deep respect for both him and his approach to the industry.
That said, I believe Botswana does not need to go all in on owning De Beers.The country already receives more than 75% of the diamond revenue generated locally, along with a portion of the revenue De Beers earns from its operations in Namibia, Canada, and South Africa. Expanding that share or seeking a larger cut from other countries would only deepen Botswana’s dependency on diamonds.
Instead, Botswana should diversify its income sources and invest more internally, a process it should have initiated more than a decade ago.
For example, if it channels investment into its international airport and succeeds in expanding tourism, the country would generate greater income, reduce its reliance on luxury sales, improve foreign currency inflows, and, in the process, expose more of the world to its diamonds.
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