JB Insights
ASHTH : The LGD Revolution Redefining Luxury
In a candid conversation with JewelBuzz, Kaivan Shah, founder of luxury LGD brand Ashth, reveals how the lab-grown diamond sector is fundamentally reshaping consumer behavior, pricing dynamics, and India’s global positioning in the jewelry market.
The New Luxury Paradigm
Kaivan challenges conventional wisdom about luxury, arguing that the industry is experiencing a tectonic shift from scarcity-based value to design-driven premiumization. “Old luxury was scarcity. New luxury is all about the new designs,” he states. “Diamond is just a medium to the artistry that we bring.”
This philosophical repositioning has significant business implications. Rather than competing on exclusivity or natural origin, lab-grown diamond brands are staking their competitive advantage on craftsmanship, innovation, and emotional resonance with consumers.
Debunking the Affordability Myth
One of the most striking revelations concerns market segmentation. Industry observers have long characterized lab-grown diamonds as products for lower-income consumers. Kaivan dismantles this narrative entirely.
“Billionaires are the first ones to actually shift themselves to the lab-grown industry,” he asserts, citing value-consciousness rather than affordability constraints as the driver. The democratization of access—where both billionaires and middle-class consumers purchase lab-grown jewelry—signals a fundamental market maturation beyond price-point positioning.
This cross-spectrum adoption validates lab-grown diamonds as a mainstream category rather than a budget alternative, with profound implications for marketing strategies and retail positioning.

The Gen Z Value Proposition
Consumer behavior analysis reveals generational fault lines. Kaivan identifies Gen Z buyers as “even more aware about the ethics, where the thing is coming from, where the diamond is sourced.” This group eschews jewelry as social signaling—a departure from previous generations who selected pieces to demonstrate status.
Instead, modern consumers prioritize personal alignment and ethical considerations. They recognize diamonds as non-investment purchases where “the only people who are making money are the person selling the diamonds, not the one who’s purchasing.”
This sophisticated buyer understanding eliminates the investment mystique that historically supported natural diamond pricing premiums, creating headwinds for traditional players while accelerating lab-grown adoption.
Design Innovation as Competitive Moat
Kaivan’s product showcase illustrates how lower price points enable unprecedented design experimentation. Examples include:
- A 97-facet signature “Ashth cut” ring representing proprietary intellectual property
- Detachable earrings offering multiple wearing configurations
- Rose-cut pieces with black rhodium finishes for cocktail wear
- Solitaire-within-solitaire conceptual designs
The affordability of larger lab-grown stones permits design complexity previously economically unfeasible with mined diamonds. This creates differentiation opportunities beyond the commodity characteristics of the stones themselves.

India’s Strategic Opportunity
Perhaps the most ambitious claim addresses India’s global positioning. Kaivan argues that India possesses the cultural richness, craftsmanship heritage, and manufacturing scale to become “the design capital of the world” in jewelry.
“We are not here just as laborers to cut the diamonds. We are here to define these diamonds and make India the capital of designing—have a Cartier, Tiffany at that level,” he contends.
This vision requires transcending India’s historical role as a low-cost manufacturing hub to establish premium design houses with global brand equity. The lab-grown sector, with its rapid growth trajectory and Indian manufacturing dominance, provides the platform for this repositioning.
Market Maturation Imperatives
Kaivan issues a call to action for industry consolidation: “It’s time we make it a little more organized. It’s time we let the world know the capabilities that we all as a combined unit bring as a force together.”
This recognition of fragmentation challenges suggests the sector remains in early-stage development despite rapid growth. Organizational maturity, collective marketing, and unified quality standards will determine whether lab-grown diamonds achieve sustained premium positioning or commoditize into a race-to-the-bottom price war.

Strategic Implications
For industry stakeholders, several strategic priorities emerge:
For Established Jewelers: The threat extends beyond pricing to fundamental value propositions. Scarcity messaging appears increasingly obsolete with value-conscious, ethically-minded consumers. Design excellence and brand storytelling become critical differentiators.
For Lab-Grown Entrants: First-mover advantages in design innovation and premium positioning remain available, but industry fragmentation poses risks. Collective action on standards and marketing may determine category-level success.
For Investors: The cross-demographic adoption pattern and manufacturing scale in India present growth opportunities, though market organization and brand differentiation will separate winners from casualties in an inevitably consolidating sector.
For Policy Makers: Supporting India’s transition from manufacturing commodity to design leadership requires investments in design education, intellectual property protection, and global brand development infrastructure.

Conclusion
The lab-grown diamond sector represents more than technological disruption or pricing arbitrage. It embodies a fundamental reconceptualization of luxury—from exclusivity to accessibility, from scarcity to creativity, from social signaling to personal expression.
Whether this revolution elevates India to global design leadership or fragments into commoditization depends on the industry’s ability to organize, innovate, and articulate a compelling value proposition beyond price. The tools are available; execution will determine outcomes.
JB Insights
The First Gold Story: How Gen Z Is Celebrating Their First Salary
By Mr. Hemant Chavaan
Head Of Marketing, E-Commerce and CRM At PNG Jewellers
For previous generations, purchasing gold was often associated with weddings, festivals, and family investments. For Gen Z, however, the journey with gold is beginning much earlier. Across India, a growing number of young professionals are choosing to buy their first piece of gold jewellery with their first salary, transforming gold into a symbol of personal achievement, financial independence, and self-expression.
Hemant Chaavan, Head Of Marketing, E-Commerce and CRM At PNG Jewellers

This shift reflects a broader change in consumer attitudes. Today’s young buyers are not waiting for traditional milestones to own jewellery—they are creating milestones of their own.
Gold as a Reward for Success

Among Gen Z consumers, the first salary represents much more than a pay cheque. It symbolises years of hard work, education, and the beginning of financial freedom. Purchasing gold jewellery has become a meaningful way to celebrate this achievement.
Retailers are increasingly witnessing customers in the 22–25 age group choosing lightweight chains, rings, pendants, and bracelets that align with their first disposable incomes. Unlike earlier generations that viewed gold primarily as an investment, Gen Z seeks a balance between emotional value, personal style, and long-term worth.
Regional Trends Across India

Consumer motivations vary significantly across regions.
In Maharashtra and metropolitan cities, first-salary purchases are largely driven by self-reward and fashion, with young professionals opting for contemporary, lightweight jewellery suitable for both work and social occasions.
In Uttar Pradesh and Bihar, gold continues to carry strong cultural and aspirational significance, with many young buyers celebrating their first purchase as a proud family moment shared with parents and relatives.
Meanwhile, emerging urban centres across Madhya Pradesh reflect a blend of both behaviours, combining a preference for modern designs with an appreciation for the long-term value of precious metals.
The Rise of Lightweight Jewellery
The growing popularity of lightweight jewellery has played a crucial role in enabling this trend. Design-led collections in lower weight categories have made gold more accessible to first-time buyers, encouraging young consumers to experiment with multiple styles rather than investing in a single traditional piece.

A Relationship That Begins Early
Perhaps the most significant aspect of this shift is that it marks the beginning of a lifelong relationship with jewellery. Consumers who purchase gold with their first salary often return for future milestones, including weddings, anniversaries, gifting, and investments.
As Gen Z enters the workforce in larger numbers, the “first gold” moment is emerging as an important category in itself. It reflects a generation that values both individuality and financial prudence, proving that gold remains as relevant as ever—even as the motivations for buying it continue to evolve.
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