JB Insights
ASHTH : The LGD Revolution Redefining Luxury
In a candid conversation with JewelBuzz, Kaivan Shah, founder of luxury LGD brand Ashth, reveals how the lab-grown diamond sector is fundamentally reshaping consumer behavior, pricing dynamics, and India’s global positioning in the jewelry market.
The New Luxury Paradigm
Kaivan challenges conventional wisdom about luxury, arguing that the industry is experiencing a tectonic shift from scarcity-based value to design-driven premiumization. “Old luxury was scarcity. New luxury is all about the new designs,” he states. “Diamond is just a medium to the artistry that we bring.”
This philosophical repositioning has significant business implications. Rather than competing on exclusivity or natural origin, lab-grown diamond brands are staking their competitive advantage on craftsmanship, innovation, and emotional resonance with consumers.
Debunking the Affordability Myth
One of the most striking revelations concerns market segmentation. Industry observers have long characterized lab-grown diamonds as products for lower-income consumers. Kaivan dismantles this narrative entirely.
“Billionaires are the first ones to actually shift themselves to the lab-grown industry,” he asserts, citing value-consciousness rather than affordability constraints as the driver. The democratization of access—where both billionaires and middle-class consumers purchase lab-grown jewelry—signals a fundamental market maturation beyond price-point positioning.
This cross-spectrum adoption validates lab-grown diamonds as a mainstream category rather than a budget alternative, with profound implications for marketing strategies and retail positioning.

The Gen Z Value Proposition
Consumer behavior analysis reveals generational fault lines. Kaivan identifies Gen Z buyers as “even more aware about the ethics, where the thing is coming from, where the diamond is sourced.” This group eschews jewelry as social signaling—a departure from previous generations who selected pieces to demonstrate status.
Instead, modern consumers prioritize personal alignment and ethical considerations. They recognize diamonds as non-investment purchases where “the only people who are making money are the person selling the diamonds, not the one who’s purchasing.”
This sophisticated buyer understanding eliminates the investment mystique that historically supported natural diamond pricing premiums, creating headwinds for traditional players while accelerating lab-grown adoption.
Design Innovation as Competitive Moat
Kaivan’s product showcase illustrates how lower price points enable unprecedented design experimentation. Examples include:
- A 97-facet signature “Ashth cut” ring representing proprietary intellectual property
- Detachable earrings offering multiple wearing configurations
- Rose-cut pieces with black rhodium finishes for cocktail wear
- Solitaire-within-solitaire conceptual designs
The affordability of larger lab-grown stones permits design complexity previously economically unfeasible with mined diamonds. This creates differentiation opportunities beyond the commodity characteristics of the stones themselves.

India’s Strategic Opportunity
Perhaps the most ambitious claim addresses India’s global positioning. Kaivan argues that India possesses the cultural richness, craftsmanship heritage, and manufacturing scale to become “the design capital of the world” in jewelry.
“We are not here just as laborers to cut the diamonds. We are here to define these diamonds and make India the capital of designing—have a Cartier, Tiffany at that level,” he contends.
This vision requires transcending India’s historical role as a low-cost manufacturing hub to establish premium design houses with global brand equity. The lab-grown sector, with its rapid growth trajectory and Indian manufacturing dominance, provides the platform for this repositioning.
Market Maturation Imperatives
Kaivan issues a call to action for industry consolidation: “It’s time we make it a little more organized. It’s time we let the world know the capabilities that we all as a combined unit bring as a force together.”
This recognition of fragmentation challenges suggests the sector remains in early-stage development despite rapid growth. Organizational maturity, collective marketing, and unified quality standards will determine whether lab-grown diamonds achieve sustained premium positioning or commoditize into a race-to-the-bottom price war.

Strategic Implications
For industry stakeholders, several strategic priorities emerge:
For Established Jewelers: The threat extends beyond pricing to fundamental value propositions. Scarcity messaging appears increasingly obsolete with value-conscious, ethically-minded consumers. Design excellence and brand storytelling become critical differentiators.
For Lab-Grown Entrants: First-mover advantages in design innovation and premium positioning remain available, but industry fragmentation poses risks. Collective action on standards and marketing may determine category-level success.
For Investors: The cross-demographic adoption pattern and manufacturing scale in India present growth opportunities, though market organization and brand differentiation will separate winners from casualties in an inevitably consolidating sector.
For Policy Makers: Supporting India’s transition from manufacturing commodity to design leadership requires investments in design education, intellectual property protection, and global brand development infrastructure.

Conclusion
The lab-grown diamond sector represents more than technological disruption or pricing arbitrage. It embodies a fundamental reconceptualization of luxury—from exclusivity to accessibility, from scarcity to creativity, from social signaling to personal expression.
Whether this revolution elevates India to global design leadership or fragments into commoditization depends on the industry’s ability to organize, innovate, and articulate a compelling value proposition beyond price. The tools are available; execution will determine outcomes.
JB Insights
The Role Of Hallmarking and Transparency In Strengthening Consumer Confidence
By Suresh Krishnan, Vice President – Sales, PNG Jewellers
In India, jewellery is equally an emotional purchase and a significant financial transaction. As consumers become more informed and digitally empowered, trust is increasingly becoming a decisive factor alongside design, price and brand reputation. Hallmarking has played an important role in creating that trust by giving consumers third-party assurance of precious-metal purity.

India’s hallmarking ecosystem has expanded significantly. BIS data shows that hallmarking registrations increased from 34,647 to 1,37,315 between April 2021 and March 2022 *1, while more than 8.72 crore gold and silver articles were hallmarked during that year. The introduction of the six-digit Hallmark Unique Identification (HUID) in 2021 has further strengthened traceability. Consumers can verify a gold article’s HUID through the BIS CARE app, adding an independent layer of assurance at the point of purchase.
For an organised retailer, this becomes particularly relevant as jewellery discovery increasingly moves online. A customer may discover a product on social media, compare it on an e-commerce platform and complete the transaction digitally. In such a journey, hallmarking helps bridge the trust gap created by the absence of physical touch and feel. When purity is independently verifiable, consumers can make online purchases with greater confidence.
The opportunity is also expanding beyond gold. BIS has brought both gold and silver under its hallmarking framework. In FY2024-25, more than 32 lakh silver jewellery articles*2 were hallmarked. The revised IS 2112:2025 introduced HUID-based hallmarking for silver on a voluntary basis from September 2025, creating greater traceability and consumer assurance in a category that is increasingly relevant to younger and value-conscious buyers.
This evolution matters commercially. KPMG’s India CX Report 2025*3 found that 27% of fine-jewellery customers are more confident in authenticity, quality and value when they trust a brand, while 9% said they would explore another brand if jewellery appeared overpriced for its quality. These findings underline why trust is not simply a compliance issue; it directly influences consideration and willingness to pay.
Contributing to the larger goal of organised and transparent trade, hallmarking has now been integrated as part of the broader customer experience across stores, CRM and e-commerce. As India’s jewellery market becomes increasingly omnichannel, the brands that communicate purity, pricing and policies clearly will be better positioned to convert digital discovery into purchase and, more importantly, build relationships that extend beyond a single transaction. The future of jewellery retail will therefore be defined not only by what consumers see, but by how confidently they can verify what they are buying and hallmarking takes care of that concern efficiently.
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