JB Insights
AGTA Spectrum Awards 2023
The American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) announced the winners of the 2023 AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards.This year’s competition took place Oct. 24–25 in Dallas, at the Omni Frisco Hotel at the Star.
There were two Best of Show winners at the 2023 AGTA Spectrum Awards. One was a spectacular 15.22 ct. black opal ring by Niveet Nagpal of Omi Privé; the other, representing the Cutting Edge category of loose gems and carvings, was a suite of four oval paraiba tourmalines totaling 31 cts. from Joseph Ambalu of Amba Gem Corp.


Entries to this year’s competition are 24% greater than last year, with a 28% increase in the Business/Day Wear category and a 26% increase in the Evening Wear category.
While there were—not surprisingly—many Sapphires and Sapphire jewels entered in the competition, other trends included Tourmaline, Garnet (including many tsavorite Garnet-accented pieces), enameled jewels, cabochon-cut gems, natural Pearls, and finished jewels with fantasy-cut or carved gems as focal points.


In the Spectrum division, extraordinary entries included an exceptional 5.34 ct. kite-shape Mahenge Spinel in the Business/Day Wear division and a massive two-piece platinum and 18K gold necklace with nearly 73 carats of Garnet in the Men’s division. In Cutting Edge, meanwhile, loose gems ranged from a 9.49 ct. peach Mahenge Malaya Garnet to a 10.42 ct. oval Portuguese-cut Rhodochrosite. There were also a number of green gems entered into both divisions of the competition this year.
One of the most talked-about pieces in the AGTA Spectrum competition was a necklace featuring various species of garnet that won the Best Use of Platinum and Color award.

“This year’s Awards are one of our best ever,” says CEO John W. Ford Sr., who has now been at the helm of AGTA for over a year. “We had an additional 100 entries this year over last, and many of them had stunning green and blue-green gems.”
Many of the winning pieces will be on display during the 2024 AGTA GemFair Tucson, Jan. 30–Feb. 4. 2024
JB Insights
Women Leaders Driving the Luxury Renaissance
How Female Leaders Are Redefining the Future of Luxury Watches & Jewellery. A powerful new era emerges as top global maisons embrace female leadership, reshaping strategy, creativity, and the future of billion-dollar luxury empires.
For decades, the world of fine jewellery and luxury watchmaking has dazzled with feminine allure—yet the boardrooms steering these global luxury giants remained largely dominated by men. While women have always been the heart of the industry as consumers, muses, and creative inspirations. Today, that narrative is being rewritten.
Across the globe, luxury watch and jewellery houses are witnessing a historic shift: women are increasingly taking centre stage as CEOs, artistic directors, and decision-makers, steering strategy and shaping the future of some of the world’s most iconic brands. This rise of female leadership is not just a symbolic change—it’s redefining the creative and commercial landscape of the luxury sector.
A Spotlight on Powerful Women Shaping the Industry
Here are some of the remarkable women redefining the luxury frontier:
Caroline Scheufele, Co-President & Artistic Director, Chopard



The creative force behind some of Chopard’s most iconic collections, Caroline Scheufele blends heritage with modernity, championing craftsmanship and sustainability.
Ilaria Resta, CEO, Audemars Piguet



With her dynamic leadership and consumer-centric vision, Ilaria Resta is guiding the watchmaking powerhouse into a new era of relevance and cultural presence.
Catherine Rénier, CEO, Van Cleef & Arpels



Known for her strategic elegance, Catherine Rénier is strengthening the maison’s identity through poetic storytelling and exceptional artistry.
Laura Burdese, Deputy CEO, Bvlgari



Laura Burdese plays a pivotal role in steering Bvlgari’s global expansion, bringing a strategic, bold approach to one of the most recognisable luxury brands.
Sabina Belli, CEO, Pomellato



A champion of women empowerment, Sabina Belli is credited with elevating Pomellato’s identity as a modern, fashion-forward jewellery brand with deep Milanese roots.
Hélène Poulit-Duquesne, CEO, Boucheron



Her leadership has pushed Boucheron into an exciting contemporary phase, blending innovation with emotional storytelling and bold design.
A Shift That Goes Beyond Leadership
This rise of women in top leadership roles is influencing every facet of the luxury jewellery ecosystem:
- Design philosophies are evolving with deeper emotional narratives, inclusivity, and modern cultural relevance.
- Brand strategies increasingly reflect values like sustainability, authenticity, and empowerment.
- Consumer engagement is becoming more experiential, storytelling-driven, and globally attuned.
These executives are not simply filling leadership positions—they are reshaping the definition of luxury itself.
The New Blueprint for the Future
The ascent of female leaders marks a pivotal moment for an industry long shaped by tradition. Their vision is ushering in a new era where creativity meets strategic innovation, and where luxury houses embrace contemporary values without compromising on heritage.
The future of luxury watches and jewellery is being rewritten—and women are holding the pen.
As global maisons continue to embrace this transformation, one thing is certain: the industry is entering its most exciting chapter yet, driven by the creativity, clarity, and leadership of exceptional women at the helm.
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