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Designer Focus

Zoya’s design philosophy is rooted in celebrating a woman’s connection to her most authentic self

Zoya, meaning ‘alive,’ embodies this belief, as we create jewellery that reflects the strength, spirit, and individuality of our muse

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Sangeeta Dewan, Head of Design, Zoya, speaks to JewelBuzz on  design philosophy, Zoya’s brand ethos , the intricacies of the creative process and product development, evolving consumer mindsets amongst other things.

What is your design philosophy, and how does it align with Zoya’s brand ethos?

At Zoya, we are reimagining the fine jewellery experience through pieces that are more than just adornments—they are works of wearable art. Our design philosophy is rooted in celebrating a woman’s connection to her most authentic self, capturing the essence of what it means to feel truly alive. The name Zoya, meaning ‘alive,’ embodies this belief, as we create jewellery that reflects the strength, spirit, and individuality of our muse. Each collection is a testament to her journey, timeless in its elegance and depth.

 Where do you draw inspiration for your collections? Are there specific themes, cultures, or eras that influence your work?

Inspiration for each Zoya creation comes from a rich tapestry of sources, both literal and metaphorical, reflecting the inner journey of the Zoya woman. For example, our Alive collection draws from the bloom of a wildflower, symbolizing the free spirit of a woman who flourishes wherever she is. The Beyond collection pays tribute to the mighty Indus, mirroring the emotional phases of a woman’s life—from turbulence to tranquility. Similarly, Her Becoming finds its roots in the geometric beauty of Ikat weaving, expressed through rare diamond cuts, weaving the story of a woman crafting her own unique life. Every collection is a celebration of the spirit, resilience, and grace of the Zoya woman.

How do you ensure a balance between tradition, cultural heritage, and modernity in your designs?/

At Zoya, we blend tradition with modernity in a way that speaks to both the heart and the eye. Our jewellery reflects India’s rich heritage of artistry while embracing contemporary elegance. Collections like Whispers of the Valley evoke the poetic beauty of Kashmir’s seasons, while Banaras reinterprets the centuries-old art of Gulabi Minakari, infusing it with a fresh, modern sensibility. Our pieces are more than just beautiful; they are timeless, versatile, and unmistakably Zoya—designed for the woman of today, yet steeped in the legacy of India’s finest craftsmanship.

4. Can you walk us through your creative process, from ideation to the final piece? How do you decide on the materials, gemstones, and techniques for each collection?

Our creative process begins with a compelling narrative that resonates with the essence of the Zoya woman. Once the concept is established, we handpick materials and gemstones that amplify the design’s emotional and visual energy. For instance, in our Reborn collection, we introduced the Zoya Eterna Cut™, a groundbreaking design perfected through masterful craftsmanship and innovation. Featuring a meticulously crafted star-shaped facet, this exclusive cut transforms each solitaire into wearable art, radiating timeless brilliance and meaning.

5. What’s next for Zoya? What can we expect from Zoya jewellery design in the next few years?

Zoya will continue to redefine the fine jewellery experience, creating meaningful pieces that combine artistry with an ethos of warm luxury. Our design language remains at the forefront of innovation, with collections like My Embrace and Samāve, which are already making waves, alongside patented stone cuts seen in Aeterna, Alive, and Reborn. With every collection, we push the boundaries of design and craftsmanship, while remaining true to the timeless, sophisticated essence that defines Zoya.

6. How do you balance current fashion trends with creating timeless pieces?

At Zoya, we acknowledge trends but don’t follow them blindly. Our focus is on creating jewellery that tells a story—one that is timeless, authentic, and profoundly meaningful. We draw from profound emotional connections and artistic inspiration, ensuring that our pieces not only reflect the moment but also stand the test of time. Each piece is designed with the modern woman in mind—strong, free-spirited, and ever-evolving—but with a commitment to enduring beauty and craftsmanship that will be cherished for generations.

7. How does Zoya cater to the evolving preferences of today’s discerning consumers?

At Zoya, we create jewellery that transcends adornment, offering pieces rich in meaning, artistry, and emotional depth. By blending tradition with contemporary sensibilities, our designs cater to the evolving desires of today’s discerning consumer—timeless, versatile, and deeply personal. With exclusive design registrations, patented stone cuts, and rare artisanal techniques, we continuously innovate while remaining grounded in our heritage. Zoya is not just jewellery—it is an immersive experience, one that invites our clients into a world of bespoke creations, personalized services, and a warm, luxurious atmosphere.

8. How do you craft a narrative for the consumer who values a deeper connection to the stories behind their jewellery?

At Zoya, every piece is a narrative, a reflection of the woman who wears it. We craft jewellery with a deep emotional resonance—stories of heritage, nature, culture, and personal evolution. Each collection, whether it’s the poetic elegance of Whispers of the Valley or the geometric grace of Her Becoming, is a celebration of her journey. Through masterful craftsmanship and rare artisanal techniques, we create jewellery that speaks to the soul, not just the senses—a true expression of individuality, strength, and beauty.

9. Can you share a favorite collection from your brand’s history and why it’s meaningful to you?

One of my personal favorites is My Embrace, an autograph collection from Zoya that stands as a signature identifier of the brand. Inspired by the emotional depth of a self-embrace, the designs translate this sentiment into sculptural forms, featuring a continuous flow that harmoniously integrates design and craftsmanship. An outstanding piece from this collection is the iconic My Embrace Bangle, a signature creation that symbolizes self-acceptance and individuality. Crafted in high-gloss rose gold, yellow gold, and platinum, it features pear-cut diamonds in an unusual setting, making it an evocative emblem of elegance and identity.

10. How do you approach creating bespoke or customized pieces for clients?

Creating bespoke jewellery at Zoya is an intimate, transformative process—one where a client’s story is distilled into a piece of wearable art. Our design team listens attentively to the emotions, memories, and inspirations that define each client’s journey. We then bring their vision to life, using rare gemstones and Zoya’s unparalleled craftsmanship to create a timeless treasure. Every bespoke piece is more than jewellery—it is a cherished narrative, an heirloom, crafted with the utmost care and artistry, reflecting the client’s true essence.

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Designer Focus

Valani Atelier:Inspired by the quiet order of nature, symmetry of architecture and the emotional  resonance of human stories.

Heena Shah, Valani Atelier underscores how her design is at the  intersection of art, engineering, and emotion.

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Speaking to JewelBuzz she passionately explains that she is  inspired by the quiet order of nature, the symmetry of architecture, and the emotional  resonance of human stories.She talks of her design philosophy, creative process, commercial viability and more

How would you describe the core design philosophy of Valani Atelier? 

At Valani Atelier, we design at the intersection of art, engineering, and emotion. Guided by  the Golden Ratio, each piece is a study in s, ymmetry and proportion—where precision  meets poetry. My background in industrial engineering shapes our creative process,  ensuring every curve and contour achieves both structural integrity and aesthetic harmony.  Inspired by nature’s geometry and modern architecture, our jewelry balances innovation  with timelessness. We believe true luxury lies in creating beauty that endures—pieces that  resonate not just in the moment, but for generations to come. 

What inspires your creations — art, architecture, nature, or personal  emotion? 

I’m inspired by the quiet order of nature, the symmetry of architecture, and the emotional  resonance of human stories. Each Valani Atelier creation begins with a fascination for  proportion and harmony—often guided by the Golden Ratio—to reveal beauty through  balance. My engineering background shapes how I translate this structure into design,  where mathematics meets emotion and precision becomes poetry. 

Equally, I’m inspired by the artisans who bring these visions to life. Their craftsmanship  fuels my commitment to social innovation—using design to preserve heritage skills, create  equitable value chains, and prove that beauty and impact can coexist by design. 

How do you balance traditional craftsmanship with contemporary  aesthetics in your designs? 

I strive to bridge the gap between heritage and innovation in my jewelry designs. Rooted in  traditional craftsmanship, my work showcases meticulous stone setting, intricate  detailing, and time-honored techniques that reflect the legacy of fine jewelry making. Each  piece is crafted with precision, honoring the artisanal skills that define luxury. At the same  time, I aim to infuse my creations with a bold, contemporary spirit. My designs feature  striking gemstone arrangements, unexpected silhouettes, and organic forms that speak to  modern sensibilities. Whether it’s a sculptural emerald ring or a floral-inspired ruby piece, I  enjoy reimagining classic motifs through a fresh, artistic lens—creating jewelry that feels  both timeless and current. My work is a celebration of duality: the elegance of tradition and  the excitement of innovation, brought together in pieces that resonate with today’s  confident, expressive wearer.

How has your design approach evolved since founding Valani Atelier? 

Since founding Valani Atelier, my design approach has evolved from classic elegance to a  more expressive and contemporary aesthetic. Early pieces focused on symmetry,  traditional prong settings, and timeless gemstone combinations like emeralds and  diamonds. Over time, I’ve embraced bolder silhouettes, asymmetrical compositions, and  nature-inspired forms. Color has become more adventurous, and the interplay between  structure and softness is more pronounced. While my commitment to craftsmanship  remains unwavering, this evolution reflects a journey—from honoring tradition to redefining  it—crafting jewelry that speaks to modern individuality while preserving the soul of  timeless artistry. 

Could you walk us through your creative process—from concept sketch  to final piece? 

Each jewelry piece I create begins as a spark of inspiration—sometimes it’s the gentle  curve of a leaf, the interplay of light and shadow in a cityscape, or a fleeting emotion that  lingers in my mind. I start by sketching these ideas by hand, letting the lines and shapes  evolve naturally on paper. As I select gemstones, I place them directly onto my sketches,  experimenting with color and balance until the composition feels just right. The process is  tactile and intuitive, blending artistry with technical precision as I refine every detail to  ensure the design is both beautiful and wearable. Once the vision is clear, I work with  skilled artisans to bring the piece to life, translating my sketches into prototypes and  carefully setting each stone by hand. The final step is always a moment of quiet  satisfaction—polishing, inspecting, and perfecting the piece so it can be worn as a true  expression of individuality and elegance. 

What gemstones are you personally drawn to, and why? Do you have a  favorite metal to work with? 

I am deeply drawn to the expressive beauty of emeralds and rubies. These gemstones are  not only rich in color and symbolism but also offer a timeless elegance that aligns with my  design philosophy. Emeralds evoke a sense of renewal and sophistication, while rubies  bring warmth and passion. My favorite metal to work with is white gold, chosen for its  clean, luminous finish and ability to enhance the brilliance of colored gemstones. It  provides a modern yet classic foundation, allowing my designs to feel both luxurious and  wearable.

How do you ensure that each design retains a sense of individuality while  maintaining the brand’s signature style? 

For me, every design begins with a unique inspiration—sometimes it’s the character of a  gemstone, a fleeting moment in nature, or a personal memory. I strive to let each piece  have its own voice, while still reflecting the signature elegance and expressive forms that  define Valani Atelier. By collaborating closely with artisans and refining every detail, I  ensure that individuality shines through, yet each creation remains unmistakably part of my  brand’s story. 

Is there a particular piece or collection that you feel best embodies the  essence of Valani Atelier? 

The Andromeda collection. My fascination for celestial formations began while star gazing  at night with my young son. Peering through a tiny lens, we witnessed how newly formed  star clusters lay in the center of a nebulae. The Andromeda series attempts to capture a  glimpse of the galaxy by aligning magnificent center gemstones to fancy cut trillions and  brilliant rounds. 

In a market increasingly driven by trends, how do you ensure commercial  viability without compromising artistry? 

I design with longevity in mind, favoring classic silhouettes and enduring materials like  emeralds, rubies, and gold. Yet, I stay attuned to evolving tastes by incorporating subtle  trend-forward elements, such as modern cuts, asymmetry, or unexpected color pairings.  By offering limited-edition collections and custom design services, I preserve artistic  freedom while meeting market demand. This model allows me to experiment creatively  without overproducing or diluting my brand identity. 

What challenges do independent jewelry designers face when scaling a  brand globally? 

Scaling a jewelry brand globally brings unique challenges, especially when it comes to  adapting designs for different cultures. For example, when I introduced the Andromeda  collection in Texas, I noticed that clients were drawn to pieces with bold, vibrant gemstones  and larger, statement settings—reflecting the region’s love for expressive style and  individuality. This experience taught me the importance of listening to local preferences  and being flexible with my designs, while still staying true to the core identity of Valani  Atelier. Balancing universal appeal with local relevance is an ongoing journey, but it’s also  what makes global expansion so rewarding.

How do you see the role of storytelling and branding in attracting today’s  luxury consumer? 

Today’s luxury consumer, especially Gen Z, is drawn to authenticity, individuality, and  sustainability. I embrace this shift by sharing the real journey behind each piece—from my  sketches to the final creation. By highlighting my creative process, ethical sourcing, and  artisan craftsmanship, I build trust and emotional connection with younger audiences. I  meet them where they are—online—through visually rich storytelling, behind-the-scenes  content, and interactive experiences that make the brand both aspirational and accessible. 

Have you noticed a shift in what younger clients look for in fine jewellery  compared to older generations? 

Younger clients seek versatility, meaning, and design-forward pieces that reflect their  identity, while older generations often prioritize heritage, investment value, and classic  elegance. I strive to bridge these preferences by offering pieces that are artistically timeless  yet emotionally current, appealing across generations while staying true to my brand’s  DNA. 

Closing remarks and message to young jewelry designers 

Your creativity is your compass. In a world full of trends and noise, stay rooted in your  vision. Let your designs speak not just through beauty, but through the stories you tell, the  materials you choose, and the values you uphold. Remember: every sketch is a seed, every  gemstone a voice, and every finished piece a reflection of your soul. Keep designing with  intention, and the world will listen.

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JewelBuzz is Asia’s First Digital Jewellery Media & India’s No.1 B2B Jewellery Magazine, published by AM Media House. Since 2016, we’ve been the trusted source for jewellery news, market trends, trade insights, exhibitions, podcasts, and brand stories, connecting jewellers, retailers, and industry professionals worldwide.

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