Sangeeta Dewan, Head of Design, Zoya, speaks to JewelBuzz on  design philosophy, Zoya’s brand ethos , the intricacies of the creative process and product development, evolving consumer mindsets amongst other things.

What is your design philosophy, and how does it align with Zoya’s brand ethos?

At Zoya, we are reimagining the fine jewellery experience through pieces that are more than just adornments—they are works of wearable art. Our design philosophy is rooted in celebrating a woman’s connection to her most authentic self, capturing the essence of what it means to feel truly alive. The name Zoya, meaning ‘alive,’ embodies this belief, as we create jewellery that reflects the strength, spirit, and individuality of our muse. Each collection is a testament to her journey, timeless in its elegance and depth.

 Where do you draw inspiration for your collections? Are there specific themes, cultures, or eras that influence your work?

Inspiration for each Zoya creation comes from a rich tapestry of sources, both literal and metaphorical, reflecting the inner journey of the Zoya woman. For example, our Alive collection draws from the bloom of a wildflower, symbolizing the free spirit of a woman who flourishes wherever she is. The Beyond collection pays tribute to the mighty Indus, mirroring the emotional phases of a woman’s life—from turbulence to tranquility. Similarly, Her Becoming finds its roots in the geometric beauty of Ikat weaving, expressed through rare diamond cuts, weaving the story of a woman crafting her own unique life. Every collection is a celebration of the spirit, resilience, and grace of the Zoya woman.

How do you ensure a balance between tradition, cultural heritage, and modernity in your designs?/

At Zoya, we blend tradition with modernity in a way that speaks to both the heart and the eye. Our jewellery reflects India’s rich heritage of artistry while embracing contemporary elegance. Collections like Whispers of the Valley evoke the poetic beauty of Kashmir’s seasons, while Banaras reinterprets the centuries-old art of Gulabi Minakari, infusing it with a fresh, modern sensibility. Our pieces are more than just beautiful; they are timeless, versatile, and unmistakably Zoya—designed for the woman of today, yet steeped in the legacy of India’s finest craftsmanship.

4. Can you walk us through your creative process, from ideation to the final piece? How do you decide on the materials, gemstones, and techniques for each collection?

Our creative process begins with a compelling narrative that resonates with the essence of the Zoya woman. Once the concept is established, we handpick materials and gemstones that amplify the design’s emotional and visual energy. For instance, in our Reborn collection, we introduced the Zoya Eterna Cut™, a groundbreaking design perfected through masterful craftsmanship and innovation. Featuring a meticulously crafted star-shaped facet, this exclusive cut transforms each solitaire into wearable art, radiating timeless brilliance and meaning.

5. What’s next for Zoya? What can we expect from Zoya jewellery design in the next few years?

Zoya will continue to redefine the fine jewellery experience, creating meaningful pieces that combine artistry with an ethos of warm luxury. Our design language remains at the forefront of innovation, with collections like My Embrace and Samāve, which are already making waves, alongside patented stone cuts seen in Aeterna, Alive, and Reborn. With every collection, we push the boundaries of design and craftsmanship, while remaining true to the timeless, sophisticated essence that defines Zoya.

6. How do you balance current fashion trends with creating timeless pieces?

At Zoya, we acknowledge trends but don’t follow them blindly. Our focus is on creating jewellery that tells a story—one that is timeless, authentic, and profoundly meaningful. We draw from profound emotional connections and artistic inspiration, ensuring that our pieces not only reflect the moment but also stand the test of time. Each piece is designed with the modern woman in mind—strong, free-spirited, and ever-evolving—but with a commitment to enduring beauty and craftsmanship that will be cherished for generations.

7. How does Zoya cater to the evolving preferences of today’s discerning consumers?

At Zoya, we create jewellery that transcends adornment, offering pieces rich in meaning, artistry, and emotional depth. By blending tradition with contemporary sensibilities, our designs cater to the evolving desires of today’s discerning consumer—timeless, versatile, and deeply personal. With exclusive design registrations, patented stone cuts, and rare artisanal techniques, we continuously innovate while remaining grounded in our heritage. Zoya is not just jewellery—it is an immersive experience, one that invites our clients into a world of bespoke creations, personalized services, and a warm, luxurious atmosphere.

8. How do you craft a narrative for the consumer who values a deeper connection to the stories behind their jewellery?

At Zoya, every piece is a narrative, a reflection of the woman who wears it. We craft jewellery with a deep emotional resonance—stories of heritage, nature, culture, and personal evolution. Each collection, whether it’s the poetic elegance of Whispers of the Valley or the geometric grace of Her Becoming, is a celebration of her journey. Through masterful craftsmanship and rare artisanal techniques, we create jewellery that speaks to the soul, not just the senses—a true expression of individuality, strength, and beauty.

9. Can you share a favorite collection from your brand’s history and why it’s meaningful to you?

One of my personal favorites is My Embrace, an autograph collection from Zoya that stands as a signature identifier of the brand. Inspired by the emotional depth of a self-embrace, the designs translate this sentiment into sculptural forms, featuring a continuous flow that harmoniously integrates design and craftsmanship. An outstanding piece from this collection is the iconic My Embrace Bangle, a signature creation that symbolizes self-acceptance and individuality. Crafted in high-gloss rose gold, yellow gold, and platinum, it features pear-cut diamonds in an unusual setting, making it an evocative emblem of elegance and identity.

10. How do you approach creating bespoke or customized pieces for clients?

Creating bespoke jewellery at Zoya is an intimate, transformative process—one where a client’s story is distilled into a piece of wearable art. Our design team listens attentively to the emotions, memories, and inspirations that define each client’s journey. We then bring their vision to life, using rare gemstones and Zoya’s unparalleled craftsmanship to create a timeless treasure. Every bespoke piece is more than jewellery—it is a cherished narrative, an heirloom, crafted with the utmost care and artistry, reflecting the client’s true essence.

Nehal Shah, founder of ENESSE by NEHAL SHAH, created a unique niche for herself with her exquisite collection of  charms, depicting women’s most desired accessories like shoes, bags, etc. transformed into iconic and trendy jewellery pieces.

Each charm has a theme along with a relevant message, that all women can identify with and define their own personal style, moments, aspirations, desires and more. Charms allow for endless creativity and personalization, making them adaptable to trends and individual stories.

Nehal Shah, the Queen of Charms, spoke  to JewelBuzz on her journey in jewellery designing, her philosophy to create pieces that stand the test time ….and more.

Take us through your journey into jewelry designing: your inspiration, your beginnings, and your evolution into a renowned designer.

Design is an exciting and deeply creative process, with each piece telling a story. Every jewelry design begins with an inspiration. It might come from nature, architecture, emotions, or even a personal story.

It sounds like creating charms is a perfect way to bring fresh, versatile designs to the jewelry line. Charms allow for endless creativity and personalization, making them adaptable to trends and individual stories. Plus, with each charm carrying its own meaning, they’re easy for customers to connect with on a personal level. It’s a great strategy to add variety while offering pieces that can hold sentimental value!

Connecting each charm to your personal life emotions is a beautiful part of designing charms, each charm can symbolize a memory of life like a handbag, sunglasses, stilettos, gift box, champagne glass, lipstick, perfume bottles. 

What is your design philosophy? 

To create pieces that stand the test time, transcending trends and feeling as relevant years from now as they do today. 

Charms have been in the market for several years now. Nehal Shah has reinvented and discovered the concept and more designs in 3D format. The overall range is crafted with a futuristic vision. The collection, although urban and new-age, is yet timeless and eternal. Charms can be passed on from generation to generation and it fits well to all the age groups. Charms can be used for personal consumption as well as a Gift idea.

What are your favorite metals, stones and other materials? 

Gold and titanium is my favorite metal in combination with diamonds, color stone , enamel and hand painting.

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Take us through the creation process of your unique, out of the box jewelry pieces/ collections.

I have creatively imagined different hues of enamel in my heart, while designing the concept. The beautiful locks have been specifically designed for the charms and the necklace. Different locks and detachable charms offer a significant flexibility for the consumer. Varied combinations can be tried and every time a unique look having a variety of combinations can be donned. These combinations can include various color stones, diamonds, and enamel.

As an entrepreneur, what are the lessons you have learnt in establishing a business, strategy for growth, brand positioning etc. How does one balance creativity with commercial viability and changing consumer preferences?

Balancing creativity with commercial viability and changing consumer preferences is a challenging but rewarding aspect of jewelry design.

I do not hesitate to experiment and dare new and out-of-the-box designs, which is wearable and price sensitive. Balancing creativity with commercial viability and changing consumer preferences is a challenging but rewarding aspect of jewelry design.

1. Understanding the Target Audience
2. Following Trends Without Losing Identity
3. Creating Timeless with a Twist
4. Experimenting in Small Batches
5. Balancing Practicality with Artistry

Your comments on the current jewelry designing segment in India? What is the standing and brand positioning of India’s jewelry designers on the global stage? After MAKE IN INDIA, are we ready for DESIGN IN INDIA?

Indian jewellery designer segment is vibrant and evolving, especially in the country, with a fascinating mix of tradition and innovation. India’s jewelry designers are making significant strides on the global stage, with a brand positioning that highlights rich heritage, skilled craftsmanship, and unique design perspective.

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What is potential for Indian designers to collaborate with global brands and top international designers?

Immense potential. If the product is great, the time is always right. India has a great blend of skills, intelligence, cost and economies of scale.

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What’s your message for aspiring, as well as practicing jewelry designers?

Don’t hesitate to experiment new ideas, go with your gut feeling and you will never fail.

 Take us through your journey into jewellery designing: your inspiration, your beginnings, and your evolution into a renowned designer.

Neeta Boochra Jewellery is a story of passion and legacy, crafted with exquisite precision and imbued with a commitment to women’s empowerment. It is a celebration of passion and legacy that pays tribute to the visionary patriarch, Seth Kastoor Chand Boochra who laid the foundation of the jewellery business in the late 19th century popularly known as the “Silver King of India” and held a significant influence over the Nation’s silver prices. 

Under the tutelage of my father-in-law, Seth Lalit Kumar Boochra, I embarked on a quest to redefine luxury, craftsmanship, and societal impact. From the hallowed halls of tradition emerged “Neeta Boochra Jewellery,” a brand that echoes with the whispers of heritage and the bold strokes of modernity. As the Chief Designer of Neeta Boochra Jewellery, I have  carved a niche for myself crafting masterpieces that transcend time and trends. Each piece is a narrative woven with threads of resilience, passion, and empowerment. But her vision doesn’t stop there. 

What is your design philosophy? 

I believe in mix and match, blend of myriad tastes, old traditional design with innovative indo-western ideas that gives freshness and fragrance to jewelry. Whether it is natural gemstones, silver, antique jadau or polki, I have carved masterpieces out of all keeping the global women in mind. Be it purity and designs, transparency in pricing or the shopping experience, we pay equal attention to all aspects to craft a memorable user journey. It is this meticulous attention to details that has given us a loyal base of customers who swear by our quality and brand value when it comes to buying jewelry. 

The brand is built on the pillars of impeccable quality, finest workmanship and tremendous value for money. Ever since its inception, the brand’s single minded focus is to provide finest jewelry at the most honest prices, while standing high on the pedestals of quality and transparency. Over the years, the brand has evolved and grown tremendously, all the while diversifying its design portfolio to suit the changing taste and choice of the customers.

What are your favourite metals, stones and other materials? 

In our design process, 925 Silver, also known as Sterling Silver, holds a special place as our core material. It’s not only durable and versatile, but it also allows us to craft timeless pieces with a modern sensibility. When paired with natural gemstones, the result is truly stunning. We particularly love working with Aquamarine, Tourmaline, Lapis Lazuli, Turquoise, and Malachite—each of these stones has a unique charm and depth of color that can instantly elevate any design.

We also specialize in Polkis and Moissanite Polkis, both of which add a classic, regal touch to our creations. Kundan Meena work is another area we’re passionate about, as it beautifully merges traditional craftsmanship with contemporary appeal. Additionally, we adore restoring and reimagining antique pieces.

Take us through the creation process of your unique, innovative  jewellery pieces/ collections.

The creation process of our jewelry pieces is a beautiful journey that marries tradition with innovation, craftsmanship with creativity. Every piece we design begins with a vision—whether inspired by nature, art, culture, or personal stories. Here’s a step-by-step look at how we bring our unique, innovative collections to life:

Inspiration & Conceptualization:

• Gathering inspiration from various sources.
• Translating ideas into sketches, mood boards, and color palettes.

Material Selection:

• Choosing high-quality materials like 925 Silver and gemstones.
• Considering the aesthetic appeal and symbolic meaning of each material.

Design & Prototyping:

• Creating prototypes using traditional techniques and skilled artisans.
• Focusing on intricate details like Kundan Meena work and Polki settings.

Refining & Customization:

• Examining and refining the prototype for balance, symmetry, and comfort.
• Offering customization options to meet individual client preferences.

Finalizing & Finishing Touches:

• Polishing, cleaning, and ensuring secure gemstone settings.
• Conducting rigorous quality checks to guarantee perfection.

Bringing Antique Pieces to Life:

• Restoring and reinterpreting antique jewelry, blending history with modern design.

Final Presentation:

• Designing elegant packaging to enhance the overall experience of receiving and wearing the jewelry.

Your comments on demi-fine jewellery –a category that bridges the gap between fine jewellery and fashion jewellery.Do you see  a trend in this category?

Demi-fine jewelry is rapidly emerging as a growing trend, offering an exciting blend of fine and fashion jewelry. As consumers seek more accessible price points without compromising on luxury or craftsmanship, this category has found its niche, providing elegant, versatile pieces for everyday wear or special occasions, including destination weddings, chic events, and personal milestones.

Combining high-quality materials such as 925 silver, semi-precious stones, and gold vermeil, demi-fine jewelry delivers the perfect balance of affordability and timeless appeal. It caters to those who desire the elegance of fine jewelry without the hefty price tag, offering a seamless transition from day to night.

This market segment is particularly attractive to modern consumers, especially women seeking both practicality and sophistication. With its rising popularity, demi-fine jewelry is becoming a strong contender in the global jewelry market, poised for continued growth.

As an entrepreneur, what are the lessons you have learnt in establishing a business, strategy for growth, brand positioning etc. How does one balance creativity with commercial viability and changing consumer preferences?

Establishing a business has been an incredibly rewarding yet challenging journey. The lessons I’ve learned along the way have shaped my approach to both creativity and commercial viability, which are essential to sustaining long-term growth.

Key Lessons Learned

Uncompromising Quality: Prioritizing high-quality materials and meticulous craftsmanship in every piece. Building a reputation for timeless elegance and customer trust.

Adaptability & Agility: Continuously evolving to meet changing market demands and consumer preferences. Embracing new trends while maintaining brand identity.

Customer Relationships: Focusing on building strong relationships with customers, suppliers, and partners. Prioritizing emotional connections and fostering word-of-mouth recommendations.

Growth & Brand Positioning Strategy

Strong Brand Identity:Crafting a distinct brand narrative that resonates with customers.Positioning the brand as a blend of tradition and contemporary design.

Digital Presence:Leveraging e-commerce and social media platforms to connect with a global audience.Utilizing digital channels for showcasing collections and engaging with customers.

Sustainable Growth:Prioritizing long-term, sustainable growth over rapid expansion.Focusing on careful diversification, market exploration, and maintaining design integrity.

Finding the Balance:Striking a balance between staying true to the brand vision and responding to market trendsCreating timeless pieces that resonate with both current and future generations of jewelry lovers.

Your comments on the current jewellery designing segment in India? What is the standing and brand positioning of India’s jewellery designers on the global stage? After MAKE IN INDIA, are we ready for DESIGN IN INDIA?

The jewelry design industry in India is undergoing a transformative evolution, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern aesthetics to create a vibrant and dynamic landscape. While India has long been celebrated for its intricate designs, heritage craftsmanship, and use of precious metals and stones, there is a growing shift toward contemporary and minimalist styles. This change is driven by younger, globalized consumers seeking unique, versatile, and personalized pieces.

Indian jewelry designers are making significant strides on the global stage, gaining recognition in luxury markets for their distinctive, handcrafted creations that merge cultural richness with international appeal. With a heritage of gemstone expertise and innovative design, India is well-positioned to expand its influence in markets such as the US, Europe, and the Middle East, offering bespoke and artistic alternatives to mass-produced jewelry. This fusion of tradition and modernity signals immense potential for growth, both nationally and internationally, in the evolving jewelry design sector.

The MAKE IN INDIA initiative was a pivotal step for the country, fostering manufacturing and production at scale. It focused on making India a global manufacturing hub, and the jewelry industry certainly benefitted from this with increased production capabilities and export opportunities.

However, we are now at a stage where India’s jewelry designers need to transition from being primarily known for manufacturing and craftsmanship to becoming global leaders in design. DESIGN IN INDIA is not just about producing beautiful pieces—it’s about creating innovative, original, and internationally relevant designs that can compete with the best in the world.

What is potential for Indian designers to collaborate with global brands and top international designers?

The potential for Indian jewelry designers to collaborate with global brands and top international designers is immense and continues to grow as both the global luxury market and the demand for unique, high-quality craftsmanship expand. These collaborations are not only an opportunity for Indian designers to gain international exposure but also a chance to infuse global designs with the rich heritage, artistry, and intricate techniques that India is known for.

What’s your message for aspiring, as well as practicing, jewellery designers?

For aspiring and practicing jewelry designers, my message is simple: Stay true to your craft, embrace innovation, and never stop learning.

For aspiring and practicing jewelry designers, success lies in balancing artistic expression with technical expertise and business acumen. Designers should continuously hone their skills, embrace creativity, and produce unique pieces that tell a story. Equally important is understanding the business side, including branding, marketing, and customer engagement, to thrive in the competitive market. Collaboration, adaptability, and staying attuned to industry trends are key to evolving with the times. Building strong relationships and maintaining patience and persistence are vital for long-term growth. Above all, let your designs reflect passion, innovation, and a commitment to excellence, leaving a lasting legacy in the world of jewelry.