By Invitation
The Jewellery Industry’s Biggest Risk Isn’t Gold Prices. It’s Sustainability.
Amit Choksi
CMD-Eka Group
The recent practice around reducing labour charges to gain market share highlights a much larger challenge facing our industry.
For decades, the Indian jewellery industry has been built by manufacturers, entrepreneurs, artisans, designers, and retailers working together to create one of the world’s most respected jewellery ecosystems. However, the industry today stands at an important crossroads.
While gold prices have risen significantly over the years, the earnings retained by many manufacturing businesses have not increased in the same proportion. In many cases, manufacturers are operating with thinner margins despite rising costs of compliance, technology, infrastructure, employee welfare, finance, and working capital.
At the same time, almost every other industry has successfully increased prices to keep pace with inflation and rising costs. Education, healthcare, hospitality, transportation, professional services, and real estate have all witnessed regular price increases over the years. Yet many jewellery manufacturers continue to face intense pressure on labour realization and manufacturing margins.

The reality is that jewellery itself has become a more challenging category. Traditionally, after “Roti, Kapdaa aur Makaan”, jewellery was one of the most important aspirational purchases for Indian families. Today, it competes with international travel, premium education, smartphones, automobiles, entertainment, investments, luxury experiences, and countless lifestyle choices. Consumers have more options than ever before, making value creation and sustainable profitability increasingly important.
The challenge is not about opposing growth, scale, or public market participation. Growth is essential. However, growth should strengthen the ecosystem rather than weaken its foundations. An industry cannot thrive indefinitely if manufacturers, who invest capital, create employment, bear operational risks, and drive innovation, continue to face shrinking profitability.
Another reality that deserves attention is the changing workforce.
Today’s generation has different aspirations from previous generations. They value work-life balance, modern workplaces, career growth, flexibility, and even concepts such as weekend culture that were almost unheard of in traditional manufacturing environments. Gen Z has grown up experiencing corporate offices, technology companies, organised retail, and modern workspaces. They are unlikely to choose manufacturing careers simply because previous generations did.

If we want the next generation to join our industry, we must create workplaces that inspire them. Clean and air-conditioned facilities, modern equipment, digital systems, structured training, professional management practices, employee welfare, and clear career progression are no longer optional. They are essential investments in the future of manufacturing.
India is already witnessing shortages of skilled manpower across sectors. Even major infrastructure companies such as L&T have publicly highlighted the challenge of finding and retaining skilled workers for large-scale projects. The jewellery industry should view this as an early signal of what may lie ahead if we fail to make manufacturing an attractive long-term career.
The conversation therefore needs to move beyond turnover, market share, and short-term growth metrics. We must focus equally on sustainable profitability, manufacturing excellence, workforce development, artisan welfare, innovation, and modern workplace culture.
The future strength of the Indian jewellery industry will not be determined solely by gold prices, exports, or valuations. It will be determined by whether manufacturing businesses remain profitable enough to invest, innovate, employ, and attract the next generation.
India became a global jewellery leader because generations of manufacturers and craftsmen worked together to build an ecosystem admired across the world.
If we fail to strengthen that ecosystem today, we risk creating a future where capital is available, demand exists, and gold is abundant, but the businesses and people needed to create value struggle to survive.
ORIGINALITY IS THE ONLY LUXURY. SUSTAINABLE MANUFACTURING IS ITS BACKBONE. CRAFTSMANSHIP IS ITS SOUL.
By Invitation
From Prompt To Pendant: How AI Is Turning Jewellery Buyers Into Designers
By Dr Sandip P. Dhurat
Not long ago, jewellery design was largely a one-way conversation. Consumers browsed catalogues, visited stores, or selected pieces from showcases. If they wanted something custom-made, they relied on the jeweller’s sketches, imagination, and expertise.
Today, a new collaborator has entered the room: Artificial Intelligence.

Across age groups, consumers are experimenting with AI-powered image generators and design applications to create jewellery concepts that reflect their personal tastes. A few words typed into a prompt—”an emerald engagement ring inspired by lotus petals” or “a contemporary mangalsutra with geometric motifs”—can generate multiple design possibilities within seconds.
What happens next is perhaps the most interesting part of the story.Instead of ordering these pieces online, many consumers are taking their AI-generated designs to the one person they trust most: their family jeweller.

The new wave of customisation
For decades, customization in jewellery was often limited to engraving names, changing gemstones, or making minor design alterations. AI is expanding that possibility dramatically.
Consumers are no longer arriving at jewellery stores with vague ideas. They are walking in with detailed visual references generated on their smartphones. Some have experimented with dozens of versions before settling on a favourite. Others blend elements from different designs to create something entirely unique.
In a sense, AI is democratizing the design process. It allows consumers to participate creatively, even if they have no formal design background.
For younger buyers especially, this level of involvement is appealing. They want jewellery that feels personal, expressive, and different from what everyone else is wearing. AI gives them a playground where they can explore possibilities before making a purchase.
Role of traditional family jeweller
If AI can generate designs so easily, does that diminish the role of the jeweller?Quite the opposite.
While AI can create attractive images, it cannot determine whether a design is structurally sound, comfortable to wear, practical to manufacture, or durable enough for daily use. A ring that looks spectacular on a screen may be impossible to cast. A delicate bracelet generated by AI may not withstand regular wear.
This is where the expertise of the jeweller becomes invaluable.
Family jewellers are increasingly acting as interpreters between digital imagination and physical reality. They assess AI-generated concepts, refine proportions, suggest technical modifications, and ensure that the final piece balances aesthetics with craftsmanship.
Many jewellers describe the process as similar to working with a client-provided sketch—except the sketch is now more sophisticated and visually detailed.
The trust factor remains unchanged. Consumers may discover designs through AI, but they still want someone they know to guide the process and stand behind the finished product.
New collaboration trend
The relationship between customer and jeweller is evolving from buyer-and-seller to co-creators.
Consider a young couple designing an engagement ring. Instead of selecting from existing collections, they use AI to explore various combinations of settings, gemstones, and motifs. They then sit down with their jeweller to discuss feasibility, budget, stone availability, and craftsmanship.
The final piece is neither entirely AI-designed nor solely jeweller-designed. It is the outcome of a collaborative journey.
This shift creates opportunities for jewellers to engage customers more deeply. Conversations become richer because customers arrive with visual ideas rather than abstract descriptions.
In many cases, the design process becomes part of the emotional value of the jewellery itself.
The opportunity
The trend presents several advantages for jewellers willing to embrace it.
First, AI-generated concepts can serve as conversation starters. Instead of spending significant time understanding a customer’s vision from scratch, jewellers can begin with a visual reference and refine it together.
Second, it can increase demand for bespoke jewellery. Consumers who might never have considered custom design are discovering how accessible it has become.
Third, it opens the door to a new generation of buyers who value individuality over mass-produced designs.
Rather than competing with AI, jewellers can position themselves as the experts who transform digital concepts into heirloom-worthy creations.
Despite all the excitement around AI, jewellery remains an intensely human product.
A necklace gifted on a wedding day, a ring marking an engagement, or a bracelet passed down through generations carries emotions that no algorithm can replicate. AI may help generate ideas, but it cannot understand family traditions, cultural significance, sentimental stories, or the subtle nuances of personal taste.
Consumers are discovering designs through technology, but they are still seeking reassurance, expertise, and craftsmanship from people they trust.
Perhaps that is the real story behind this trend.
AI is not replacing the jeweller. It is empowering consumers to participate in the creative process while making the jeweller’s role even more valuable. The screen may provide the inspiration, but it is the skilled hand of the jeweller that transforms a digital concept into a treasured piece of jewellery.
In the years ahead, the most successful jewellers may not be those who resist AI, but those who embrace it as another tool in the ongoing art of personalization—where technology sparks the idea, and craftsmanship gives it life.
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