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Rare Colored Gems Take Center Stage at Bonhams Hong Kong Auction

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A dazzling array of colored diamonds and rare gemstones will headline Bonhams’ upcoming Jewels and Jadeite sale in Hong Kong on May 22, with standout pieces expected to fetch up to HKD 5 million ($640,000).

Leading the sale is a striking pink diamond ring featuring a 1.08-carat, fancy vivid pink, internally flawless diamond. The modified shield brilliant-cut stone is mounted in a contemporary setting and surrounded by 13.90 carats of round brilliant and tapered baguette-cut diamonds.

Also among the top highlights:

  • The Kat Florence Lumina, an unmounted 181.61-carat cushion-cut greenish-blue Paraiba-type tourmaline, shares the spotlight with the pink diamond, both carrying an estimate of HKD 5 million ($640,000).
  • A pair of ruby and diamond earrings by Harry Winston, with center rubies weighing 6.98 and 6.96 carats, is expected to fetch up to HKD 3.8 million ($490,000).
  • A ruby and diamond fringe necklace, showcasing 44 oval Burmese rubies totaling 49.09 carats and a prominent pendant ruby, could reach HKD 2.8 million ($360,000).
  • A 7.03-carat fancy vivid yellow diamond ring, internally flawless, is estimated at HKD 2.5 million ($320,000).
  • A Cartier panther bracelet, set with 18.10 carats of diamonds, 12 carats of sapphires, emerald eyes, and an onyx nose, also carries an estimate of HKD 2.5 million ($320,000).
  • A 15.06-carat orange-red Tanzanian spinel ring, flanked by diamonds, may achieve HKD 2 million ($260,000).

Rounding out the top lots are several vibrant yellow and Paraiba tourmaline rings, each estimated between HKD 1.5 million and HKD 1.9 million ($190,000–$240,000).

Renowned names such as Harry Winston, Cartier, and Bulgari will be represented, offering collectors a rare chance to acquire exceptional pieces from leading design houses.

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International News

Fluorescent Diamonds: GIA to Introduce Clearer Guidance

According to GIA, around 25% to 35% of all diamonds show some level of fluorescence. Greater transparency about this significant segment of the market could help improve confidence among both consumers and the jewellery trade.

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Later this year, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) will introduce new wording in its diamond grading reports to reduce confusion about fluorescent diamonds. The update, expected in the fourth quarter, is one of the most important steps taken by a grading laboratory to explain this feature more clearly to both the jewellery trade and consumers.

Rapaport Intelligence Report explores what this change could mean for the diamond market. Fluorescence has had a long and complicated history. In the past, fluorescent diamonds often sold at premium prices. However, attitudes changed during the diamond boom of the 1970s and again after a grading controversy in South Korea in the early 1990s. Although later gemological research helped improve confidence in fluorescent diamonds, many buyers still view them negatively, and they often sell at discounted prices.

The report also looks at how these discounts have changed over the past six years through both strong and weak market conditions. In addition, the report explains two key questions: how fluorescence affects a diamond’s appearance and whether it influences its color grade. It also considers whether GIA’s new report comments could change how buyers view fluorescent diamonds.

The report revisits a long-debated issue—does fluorescence really affect a diamond’s beauty, or are today’s concerns mainly based on old perceptions that continue to influence buying decisions?

According to GIA, around 25% to 35% of all diamonds show some level of fluorescence. Greater transparency about this significant segment of the market could help improve confidence among both consumers and the jewellery trade.

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