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Why It’s Time for a New Jewellery Category -By Dr. Sandip Dhurat 

Dr. Sandip Dhurat is an innovator, researcher, and thought leader in the luxury and wellness space. With over two decades of experience in consumer behaviour, product design, and IP strategy, he is the inventor of a patent-protected jewellery category designed for the next generation of wearers.

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For over a century, the jewellery industry has thrived on tradition — a blend of craftsmanship, heritage, and symbolism. Yet in this reverence for the past lies our present challenge: we haven’t created a fundamentally new jewellery category in over 100 years

We’ve seen stylistic evolutions, material innovations, and digital integrations — yes. But a category shift? A new space that redefines how people interact with jewellery? That’s long overdue. And now, it’s not just a creative opportunity — it’s a strategic necessity. 

Why No New Jewellery Categories Have Emerged in 100 Years 

Jewellery has historically been classified into three primary categories: 

  • Fine Jewellery (luxury, precious metals and stones), 
  • Fashion Jewellery (trend-driven, accessible, lower-cost), 
  • Bridal Jewellery (cultural, ceremonial, often one-time use). 

These categories are deeply entrenched, both in consumer perception and retail structure. Most industry innovation has focused on design and marketing — not on rethinking the category itself. 

But innovation in other lifestyle industries — fashion, wellness, technology — shows us the power of category creation. Think athleisure in apparel or smartwatches in accessories. Why hasn’t jewellery made a comparable leap? 

The answer lies in a mix of legacy inertia and market comfort — until now. 

How Gen Z’s Mindset is Widening the Chasm Between Offering and Demand 

Gen Z is rewriting the rulebook for consumption. Their jewellery choices are less about tradition and more about expression, functionality, and alignment with personal values

This generation doesn’t just buy jewellery to “own gold” or “look elegant.” They look for: 

  • Purpose: What does this piece do or represent
  • Identity: Does it align with my story, gender fluidity, or wellness goals? 
  • Interactivity: Can I connect with it digitally, physically, or emotionally? 

In short, Gen Z wants jewellery to do more than sit pretty. They want it to mean more, offer more, and adapt with them. Traditional categories simply aren’t built for this expectation — and it’s leading to a growing disconnect between what we offer and what they demand. 

Introducing a New Jewellery Category — Conceptually 

Without revealing proprietary details, I can share that this new category of jewellery redefines its role in the wearer’s life. 

It is:

  • Purpose-driven: Beyond aesthetics, it serves a functional, emotional, or physiological role. Identity-focused: It adapts to evolving self-expression, body types, and life stages. Patent-protected: A novel mechanism or form factor underpins the concept. 
  • Culturally agnostic yet deeply personal: It transcends tradition while inviting intimacy. 

This category doesn’t replace fine, fashion, or bridal jewellery — it adds a new layer. A fourth category, if you will, that aligns more closely with 21st-century values: adaptability, inclusivity, and innovation. 

How Brands Can License, Adopt, and Lead This Future 

Innovation without scale is a missed opportunity. That’s why this category has been designed with  licensing and collaborative development in mind

Brands can
  • License the core concept or IP to develop within their design language. 
  • Co-develop sublines or capsule collections under this new category. 
  • Educate consumers through content, storytelling, and experiential retail. 
  • Lead the shift by positioning themselves as pioneers — not just producers. 

The future of jewellery won’t be built by a single creator. It will be shaped by forward-thinking brands willing to step beyond tradition and explore untapped human needs. 

Conclusion 

We stand at a rare inflection point: where market stagnation meets cultural acceleration. The jewellery industry has a choice — continue refining the old, or pioneer the new. 

For those ready to lead, the next decade offers a blank slate. A new jewellery category isn’t just an idea — it’s an inevitability. The only question is: who will bring it to the world first? 

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By Invitation

Artisan Perspectives: Rethinking Craft In The Age Of Lab-Grown Stones

Prapanjj S K Kota
Founder & CEO at Réia Diamonds

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  • Traditionally, diamond value was driven by rarity, origin, and size, with craftsmanship playing a secondary role.
  • With the rise of lab-grown diamonds, abundance is shifting focus from rarity to design and craftsmanship.
  • Jewellery-making is returning to a craft-first approach, placing artisans at the core of value creation.
  • Skill, precision, and finishing quality are becoming primary differentiators.

The rarity of diamonds has historically dictated their market value, and most of the conversation surrounding a diamond’s value has revolved around where (and how rare) it came from, and how large it was. While craftsmanship has always been important, it has often remained secondary, simply supporting the diamond rather than receiving the buyer’s focus.

As lab-grown diamonds begin to enter the market in greater numbers, the conversation surrounding them is also changing. With an increasing supply of diamonds, being a differentiating factor in jewellery becomes much more about design, craftsmanship, and the quality of work than about rarity.

For artisans, this shift means that the focus of making jewellery has returned to the craft itself.

From a technical perspective, lab-grown diamonds do not affect the fundamentals of jewellery making. They will continue to have the same hardness, brilliance, and structural properties that natural diamonds do; therefore, using traditional setting techniques, including precision settings, pavé work, micro-setting, and polishing, will be just as essential. While the tools may be more modern, the knowledge to work with diamonds continues to be based on many years of training and experience.

The major change comes with the new opportunities presented by working with lab-created stones.

Designers are utilising the increased access to stones to try new layouts incorporating a greater focus on symmetry, scale and intricate detail. As jewellery changes, so does its craftsmanship. Today, with designs that involve numerous stones, layered settings, and modern silhouettes, artisans must have an intentional focus on the structural integrity and balance of the pieces being created, elevating their role more than ever before.

As we see craftsmanship play a supporting role to design when jewellery becomes design-centric, the specifics of how stones are aligned, how strong the setting is, and how well metal surfaces are finished will have an impact on how a piece looks, feels, and holds up over time; and therefore, they cannot be replicated with technology alone.

This change also highlights the importance of India’s historical craft traditions. Surat’s experience in the production of diamonds has established it as a leading force in the world of fine jewellery. This industry relies heavily on a team of talented craftsmen and manufacturing expertise, which plays a very important role in the overall development of jewellery that uses natural as well as lab-grown diamonds.

The introduction of lab-grown diamonds offers a fresh new direction for many artisans, as well as introducing something new into the world of fine jewellery. As it becomes less critical to know where a stone comes from, knowing the quality of the craftsmanship around a piece of jewellery will become increasingly essential. Design integrity, structural engineering, and finishing standards will all contribute to defining the real value of a finished piece.

Therefore, there is an opportunity for artisans; thoughtful design with precise execution requires a high level of technical proficiency. The better the craft, the more evident the difference is.

With the rise of lab-grown diamonds, the discussion about value will slowly evolve to include what has always been considered great jewellery: the skill, time, and craftsmanship it takes to create a piece of art from a design.

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JewelBuzz is Asia’s First Digital Jewellery Media & India’s No.1 B2B Jewellery Magazine, published by AM Media House. Since 2016, we’ve been the trusted source for jewellery news, market trends, trade insights, exhibitions, podcasts, and brand stories, connecting jewellers, retailers, and industry professionals worldwide.

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