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The State of Fashion:Luxury 2025

McKinsey & Company and BoF Insights report

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Global fashion faces challenging landscape

The ninth annual State of Fashion report by McKinsey & Company and BoF Insights highlights the challenging landscape the global fashion industry faces in 2025. With economic uncertainty, changing consumer behaviors, and evolving market dynamics, the year is expected to be a critical juncture for many brands.

Overview

Economic Challenges: 80% of executives foresee no improvement in the industry, and only 18% rank sustainability as a top concern, down from 29% in 2024. Consumer confidence and spending remain major issues.

Key Drivers: Price sensitivity, the rise of dupes, climate change acceleration, and reshuffled global trade create a difficult environment.

Geographic Shifts: Growth engines in Asia, particularly India, Japan, and Korea, are becoming pivotal as China faces economic challenges.

Themes Driving the Agenda

Trade Reconfigured: Brands are diversifying sourcing to align with evolving trade policies and sustainability targets. Nearshoring and political alignment are critical considerations.

Asia’s Growth Engines: While China slows, India, Japan, and Korea are emerging as vital markets for growth.

Discovery Reinvented: AI-driven curation in e-commerce promises to help overwhelmed shoppers navigate abundant choices.

Silver Spenders: The growing over-50 demographic offers new opportunities for incremental growth, emphasizing the need for inter-generational appeal.

Value Shift: Resale, off-price, and dupe markets are flourishing as consumers seek better value amid persistent economic pressures.

The Human Side of Sales: Enhancing in-store experiences by empowering well-trained sales staff can drive demand for physical retail.

Marketplaces Disrupted: Online non-luxury marketplaces face existential challenges, struggling with declining demand and rising customer acquisition costs.

Sportswear Showdown: Challenger brands are rapidly gaining market share, driving competition in the dynamic sportswear segment.

Inventory Excellence: Advances in inventory management and agile supply chains are key to addressing margin pressures and meeting sustainability goals.

The Sustainability Collective: Collective action is essential to meet decarbonization goals despite consumer reluctance to pay premiums for sustainable products.

Looking Ahead

The industry’s outlook remains sluggish, with revenue growth stabilizing in low single digits. Luxury’s dominance in profit creation is challenged by non-luxury segments for the first time since 2010. Brands that act nimbly to address geographic shifts, demographic changes, and technological innovations will find opportunities amid the turbulence.

Growth in the jewellery sector will be fueled by rising demand from ultra-high spenders and continuous investment from luxury houses in technology and expertise.

The new playbook for 2025 emphasizes adaptability, localization, and sustainability, while redefining value and consumer engagement. The fashion sector must innovate, embrace technology, and prioritize long-term resilience to navigate this period of reckoning successfully.

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JB Insights

Jewellery Stocks Surge Following Gold ETF FoF Restrictions

Fresh Curbs On Paper-Gold Products Have Pushed Investor Attention Toward Physical Gold and Organised Jewellers Just As Dussehra, Diwali and The Wedding Season Arrive. The Rally Was Real, But It Was Narrower, and IYU78ts Cause Less Certain,Than The Headline Suggests.

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Key Takeaways

  • Around 17 fund houses temporarily halted fresh subscriptions to gold ETF funds of funds (FoFs) on 15 and 16 October 2026, reportedly on SEBI instructions relayed through AMFI.
  • On 16 October, jewellery stocks rose by as much as 9% in early trade. The sharpest moves came in smaller names: PC Jeweller, Shanti Gold, Sky Gold and Diamonds, and TBZ. Titan and Kalyan Jewellers moved far less.
  • No verified evidence shows that money blocked from gold FoFs flowed into jewellery shares. Market commentary treats the curbs as a catalyst for attention, not a proven cause.
  • Gold prices have since eased, and the sector now trades on festive demand, margins and earnings quality rather than on the curbs alone.

What Happened

Seventeen mutual fund houses temporarily restricted fresh investments in their gold ETF FoFs, with the curbs taking effect on 15 and 16 October. The restrictions cover fresh lump sums, switch-ins, top-ups, and new SIP and STP registrations. ICICI Prudential, HDFC, Tata, Kotak, DSP, Mirae Asset, UTI, HSBC, LIC, Quantum, Zerodha and Groww are among the AMCs that issued notices. Several also curbed bulk subscriptions to gold ETFs themselves, and HDFC and Mirae extended the curbs to their gold-silver passive FoFs.

Three features matter for readers:

  • The curbs are temporary. Notices say they stay in place until further notice.
  • Existing holders are untouched. Redemptions continue, and SIP and STP instalments registered before the cut-off dates run as usual.
  • No reasons were given. The notices did not state a rationale. The context is pressure on India’s external balances and the rupee, a heavy import bill and a festive season in which gold and silver ETF subscriptions surged last year.

Gold ETF net inflows had already jumped to Rs 4,450.61 crore in September, up 71.4% from Rs 2,596.70 crore in August, according to AMFI data. Globally, gold ETFs drew about 67 tonnes (nearly $10 billion) in September, according to the World Gold Council.

The Investment Thesis

The logic circulating in the market runs as follows:

  1. Substitution. With new money barred from FoFs, some investors may turn to coins, bars and jewellery, or to listed jewellers as a proxy for gold demand.
  2. Festive timing. Dussehra, Dhanteras, Diwali and the wedding season are the strongest demand window of the year, and the shifted festive calendar could lift the October–December quarter’s share of annual sales.
  3. Organised-sector share gains. Analysts expect Titan, Kalyan and Senco Gold to keep winning share from the unorganised segment.
  4. Consumer adaptation. Buyers are coping with high prices through lightweight jewellery, smaller tickets and old-gold exchange.
  5. Operating momentum. Recent reported jewellery growth has been strong: Titan’s jewellery business up 21%, Kalyan’s India revenue up 27%, Senco Gold up 31% and PC Jeweller up 28% in consolidated revenue.

What the Evidence Does Not Show

A careful reading of the available coverage suggests caution on the causal story:

  • No proven money flow. Nothing verifies that capital denied access to gold FoFs went into jewellery shares.
  • Different routes remain open. The curbs hit specific FoFs and some ETF bulk subscriptions, not every way of owning gold.
  • Concentrated, not sector-wide. The sharpest moves were in smaller stocks, where low bases and momentum trading amplify headlines.
  • Values are not volumes. Jewellery sales can rise in rupee terms while customers buy fewer grams of gold.
  • Imports are not surging. Gold imports fell to $1.8 billion in September from $2.3 billion in August, so a festive import surge is a concern, not a confirmed outcome.

In short, the curbs lit the fuse, but festive demand and company fundamentals are the fuel.

Macro Backdrop

  • Duty and appeals. Earlier this year the government raised effective gold and silver import duties to 15% from 6%. In May, the Prime Minister urged citizens to defer gold purchases for a year to conserve foreign exchange. Jewellery stocks fell 5.5% to 11% on that appeal, and they also fell on the duty hike while gold ETFs and gold-loan lenders rallied.
  • Gold prices. 24-carat gold stood at Rs 1,50,980 per 10 grams on 12 October and Rs 1,47,440 on 16 October. By 21 October it had slipped to roughly Rs 1,46,080, about 3.25% below the 12 October level. Buyers are watching whether prices find a floor before Dhanteras.
  • Six-month stock performance. To mid-October, Kalyan was up over 27%, Thangamayil about 13%, Sky Gold and Diamonds about 139%, Senco Gold flat and Titan down about 2%.

Implications for the Trade

  • Retailers. Policy now cuts both ways: restrictions on paper gold support physical demand narratives, while duties, appeals and rupee-defence measures can dampen it. Lightweight designs, exchange schemes and gold-metal-loan and hedging discipline remain the practical levers.
  • Manufacturers and wholesalers. Festive restocking, working-capital cost and hedge cover matter more than headline sentiment.
  • Investors. Analysts caution against treating the curbs as a standalone reason to buy. Margins, same-store growth and sustainable earnings should drive the decision.

What to Watch

  1. Any relaxation or extension of the FoF subscription curbs, and whether other gold-linked products see similar action.
  2. Domestic gold price direction through Dhanteras and Diwali.
  3. Festive-quarter commentary and results from Titan, Kalyan, Senco and PC Jeweller.
  4. Gold import data for October and the state of the rupee.
  5. Further policy signals on duties or gold-buying appeals.

Bottom Line

The FoF curbs gave jewellery stocks a timely narrative, and small-cap names ran hardest on it. But the durable case for organised jewellers rests on festive and wedding demand, share gains from the unorganised sector and clean earnings. The curbs are a headline; the festive footfall is the test.

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JewelBuzz is Asia’s First Digital Jewellery Media & India’s No.1 B2B Jewellery Magazine, published by AM Media House. Since 2016, we’ve been the trusted source for jewellery news, market trends, trade insights, exhibitions, podcasts, and brand stories, connecting jewellers, retailers, and industry professionals worldwide.

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