International News
Kagem to recommence focused open-pit mining
Gemfields is pleased to announce that Kagem Mining Limited (‘Kagem’), the emerald mine in Zambia which is 75% owned by Gemfields and 25% owned by the Government of the Republic of Zambia through the Industrial Development Corporation of Zambia (‘IDC’), will shortly recommence a programme of focused open-pit mining to recover more premium emeralds.
As announced on 23 December 2024, alongside other cost cutting measures, Kagem suspended all mining from 1 January 2025 to focus on processing ore from Kagem’s significant ore stockpile utilising the upgraded processing plant.
Emerald production from the processing plant in 2025 so far, in terms of carats recovered, has been in-line with the Company’s expectations, producing a lower proportion of higher-quality or premium emeralds than direct open-pit mining methods.
Kagem’s recent auction results, including the encouraging commercial-quality auction results released on 30 April 2025, has increased management confidence in the current emerald market and the decision has therefore been taken to recommence mining of two key production points in the Chama pit, with minimal waste mining, to recover premium emeralds for Kagem’s future higher-quality auctions. The decision to recommence full scale mining will continue to be assessed as market conditions develop.
International News
Signet The Biggest-Grossing Jeweller In North America By Far In 2025
Luxury Groups, Specialist Watch Retailers, and Branded Jewellery Players Are Steadily Gaining Ground Against Traditional Mass-Market and Department-Store Operators
National Jeweler’s latest State of the Majors report highlights a shifting leaderboard among North America’s “$100M supersellers,” which grew from 36 to 37 qualifying retailers in 2025. While Signet Group comfortably defended its first-place crown—generating $6.36 billion across 2,329 stores—the rest of the top ten saw major disruption. Signet’s total watch and jewelry sales for the year were $6.36 billion according to the report and had 2,329 outlets. Second-placed Richemont, the Swiss luxury conglomerate, sold $3.62 billion, with just 105 locations selling watches and jewlery.
One of the report’s most notable developments was the rise of Richemont to the No. 2 position, overtaking several larger-format retailers. The Swiss luxury conglomerate, owner of prestigious maisons including Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, reported $3.62 billion in watch and jewellery sales through only 105 locations. The performance illustrates the outsized revenue-generating power of luxury retail, with Richemont achieving high productivity per store compared with mass-market competitors.
The reshuffling pushed Walmart down to fourth place, signaling a broader shift in consumer spending toward premium and luxury jewellery categories. Meanwhile, warehouse retailer Costco advanced to No. 5, continuing to strengthen its position in fine jewellery through value-led offerings and member-driven purchasing.
Jewellery brand Pandora also climbed one rank to secure the No. 7 spot, reflecting sustained demand for branded jewellery collections and accessible luxury products. In contrast, luxury powerhouse LVMH slipped to No. 6, while longstanding department store chain Macy’s moved down to eighth place, highlighting increased competitive pressures within traditional retail channels.
Another significant change came at the lower end of the top ten, where Watches of Switzerland Group entered the rankings at No. 10, marking growing momentum for specialist luxury watch retail in North America. Its entry displaced Bucherer to No. 11, emphasizing the increasingly competitive nature of premium watch distribution.
The report points to a broader transformation in North America’s jewellery retail hierarchy, where luxury groups, specialist watch retailers, and branded jewellery players are steadily gaining ground against traditional mass-market and department-store operators. While scale remains a decisive advantage—as demonstrated by Signet’s market leadership—the rankings suggest profitability and influence are increasingly being driven by premium positioning, brand equity, and high-value transactions rather than store count alone.
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