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Hong Kong International Jewellery Show opens, showcases global designs and trends

Twin fairs bring together 4,000 exhibitors from 40+ countries, highlighting luxury brands, innovative gold technologies, antique treasures and emerging design talent.

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The 42nd Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, organised by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC), opens today at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) and runs for five consecutive days until 8 March. It is held concurrently with the 12th Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show which opened on Monday (2 March) at Asia World-Expo and concludes on 6 March. The two shows bring together some 4,000 exhibitors from over 40 countries and regions, forming the world’s largest one-stop jewellery marketplace.

Jenny Koo, Deputy Executive Director of the HKTDC, said: “Alongside the expanded Hall of Fame, the show will feature the debut of the Hard Pure Gold Pavilion and the Hong Kong Watch Manufacturers Association Pavilion. Furthermore, Uzbekistan is participating for the first time with a delegation of 10 companies, showcasing a wide range of gold jewellery. Through diversified exhibit profiles, we aim to create more collaboration opportunities for the industry and reinforce Hong Kong’s status as a global jewellery trading hub.”

Kent Wong, Chairman of the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show and the Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show Fair Organising Committee, said: “Hong Kong is an international trade and sourcing centre and our twin jewellery shows play a pivotal role. Continuing the successful ‘Two Shows, Two Venues’ format, the fairs attract global jewellery professionals for sourcing and networking, helping the industry capture the latest global market trends.”

International brands converge, key zones expand

At the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, the Hall of Fame has expanded by over 40%, welcoming more renowned international jewellery brands. Among them, Turkish exhibitor Hosgor Kuyumculuk Mucevherat Ticaret Limited Sirketi (Booth: CEC 3B-D15) presents a 35.5-carat diamond necklace that combines exquisite craftsmanship with brilliant radiance. Another highlight is the Hall of Extraordinary, which features exhibitors such as Hong Kong’s Glamour Fine Jewelry Enterprise Company (Booth: CEC GH-C16), showcasing a bracelet featuring Colombian emeralds paired with diamonds and rubies in a radiant and luxurious style.

New pavilions highlight oriental aesthetics

With hard pure gold technologies gaining popularity in the Chinese Mainland, the Hard Pure Gold Pavilion (Booth: CEC 3E-F02) features 11 exhibitors organised by the World Gold Council. The pavilion showcases innovative techniques that produce harder, lighter and brighter gold pieces capable of setting a variety of gemstones. Also, the Hong Kong Watch Manufacturers Association Pavilion highlights crossover craftsmanship between jewellery setting and watchmaking.

The fairs also feature several events celebrating oriental aesthetics. Today, the Jewellers’ and Goldsmiths’ Association of Hong Kong Limited presented the awards for the Hong Kong International Fashion Chuk Kam Jewellery Design Competition. The competition encourages designers to create culturally rich and commercially viable gold jewellery for the ASEAN and the Middle East markets. Tomorrow (5 March) will see the awards presentation of the inaugural International Fei Cui Jewellery Design Competition, organised by the Hong Kong Jade Association, honouring designers who skilfully blend jadeite with global cultural elements.

Antique treasures and cutting-edge design

Antique jewellery remains highly sought-after by collectors and high-end customers for its historical value and craftsmanship. The Antique & Vintage Jewellery Galleria presents an array of rare pieces, including a bi-colour enamel diamond piece from World Coins Co., Ltd. (Booth: CEC CH-N12), with a history spanning over a century. 

Design pieces are equally captivating, the Designer Galleria welcomes 10 Korean designers this year. Together with the Young Jewellery Designer Arena, participated by the Asia Pacific Creator Association and the Asia Jewelry Culture Design and Crafts Association, about 50 designer exhibitors will showcase their diverse creativities in the fairground.

The HKTDC continues to nurture local talents in the jewellery industry. In partnership with the Jewellers’ and Goldsmiths’ Association of Hong Kong Limited, Hong Kong Jewellery & Jade Manufacturers Association, Hong Kong Jewelry Manufacturers’ Association, and Diamond Federation of Hong Kong, the 27th Hong Kong Jewellery Design Competition returns under the theme “Pure Elegance – Natural Beauty”, offering a stage for local professional designers and students. The awards ceremony will be held tomorrow (5 March) at the HKCEC, with winning pieces on display to demonstrate innovative design.

E-commerce and technology empower industry growth

To help exhibitors expand into the Chinese Mainland market and develop their online sales channels, the fairs continue the collaboration with Taobao Tmall. For the first time, the fairs also welcome Douyin, partnering with influencers and KOLs for on-site live streaming to promote exhibitors’ products. On 7 March, a seminar will feature experts discussing the latest online marketing trends and tactics.

Another seminar on 5 March will explore how AI and new technologies enhance competitiveness, optimise production, and drive product innovation in the jewellery industry.

Engaging events to connect and inspire

A diverse lineup of events will be held to foster industry dialogue. These include a seminar by Dr. Jack Ogden, a distinguished British historian and jewellery authority, who will analyse the evolution of jewellery craftsmanship and changing aesthetic tastes throughout history. The jewellery parades will highlight themes such as intangible cultural heritage jewellery, curated selections from the Antique & Vintage Jewellery Galleria, as well as highlights from the Hall of Extraordinary, Designer Galleria, and gold jewellery.

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International News

WGC Gold Market Commentary: Hiking Up A Volcano

Gold Is Also Facing Near-Term Headwinds and Significant Oil Shock Could Prolong The Malaise.

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Gold fell 1% in May, on continued positive risk sentiment and modest global gold ETF outflows.

The Fed may need to hike rates as inflation pressures mount. We make the case for why it could – surprisingly – benefit gold. But gold also faces headwinds, which could be prolonged if the Hormuz standoff drags on.

Nothing to see here

Gold fell 1% in May, finishing the month at US$4,546/oz, and marginally lower in most major currencies. India and Turkey saw monthly gains

According to our Gold Return Attribution Model (GRAM), there were no stand out drivers for gold’s performance in May from the explicit variables in the model. Positive risk sentiment via equity inflows, less bond inflows, and a fall in implied volatility proved a minor drag, alongside gold ETF outflows from Asia and the US (US$2.3bn, 17.3t). US dollar weakness helped gold at the margin, as did momentum factors including European gold ETF inflows (US$0.3bn, 1.2t). Other opaque flows – possibly in the over-the-counter (OTC) market, not captured explicitly in our model – may have been a contributor to the negative residual.

COMEX managed money futures positioning continued to linger in neutral territory with a very modest gain of US$1.4bn (8t) in May.

Hiking up a volcano

The Fed may have to hike later this year and that could spell trouble for risk assets and the economy. History is mixed when it comes to hikes and gold’s response

Notable precedents show similarities to today and on those occasions gold responded positively to a hike

But gold is also facing near-term headwinds and significant oil shock could prolong the malaise.

Following a somewhat contentious US rate-cutting cycle that began in 2024, the market has pivoted to the strong possibility of rate hikes into year-end and beyond, with a firm economy facing pass-through inflation pressures. This could weigh on risk assets through discount rates, as well as increase borrowing costs for households and businesses.

Convention has it that higher policy rates pressure gold through higher real yields and a stronger US dollar. The evidence is mixed. Historically, rate hikes have not seen a uniform response from yields, the dollar or gold.

The data: Gold has positively surprised on hikes more than 50% of the time. It’s median one-month (21-day) return following hikes – adjusted for the long-run average 21-day return of 0.84% – has been positive.1

Context: What matters more than the policy rate itself is how markets interpret the implications of tightening for growth, inflation credibility, financial stability and the US dollar

This time may be different: In prior cycles, hikes often signalled policy credibility and economic normalisation. Today, however, hikes may increasingly signal:

Persistent inflation pressure as resource nationalism ramps up

Fiscal stress both in the US and abroad

Policy error risk on more divergent FOMC views, political pressure and the fear of getting it wrong (again).

Cue the US dollar: Historically the US dollar appeared more important to gold’s fortunes than to rates. Medium term growth and yield convergence, and a diversification push away from US assets, has set quite a clear path for a weaker dollar ahead, upon which consensus is agreed.

Other things matter: Demand from China, India and central banks is structurally less sensitive to US rates and could provide support beyond the current lull

Risk asset fragility: Higher rates may prove to be the last straw for equity markets. Aside from the mechanical repricing of discount rates, Vanda Research notes that even relatively modest rises in long-end Treasury yields have repeatedly destabilised short-term equity rallies over the past couple of years.2

When and why hikes benefited gold

There are notable historical precedents during which gold bucked expectations with a positive hike

29 June 2006: This was the final hike in a cycle; housing was slowing and growth concerns were mounting. Gold was also in an early innings of rate-insensitive buying from a recently liberated Chinese investment market, the advent of gold ETFs, and a commodity boom. In other words, the Fed was hiking into fragility and ‘other’ things mattered – as they do today

15 March 2017: The post-election reflation trade and long-dollar positioning had become crowded. The hike was interpreted as dovish relative to expectations and long-end yields declined.3 The case for a resumption of dollar weakness today is strong and widely held even as positioning is neutral

19 December 2018: Markets interpreted the hike as a policy error, resulting in a sharp equity sell off4 and long-end yields collapsed. The possibility today of a policy error with a more divided and potentially politicised Fed is non-zero

2 November 2022: An aggressive hiking cycle collided with growing market fragility. The UK LDI crisis had already destabilised bond markets and the US dollar subsequently peaked.5 Today long bond yields are rising across the G10 on fiscal fears and long-term inflation concerns. And gold has a decent track record of responding to geopolitical spikes

22 March 2023: The Fed tightened into acute banking stress. Long-end yields fell sharply as markets accelerated expectations of a pause and eventual easing.6 There are no clear signs of banking stress today, but concerns have grown over private credit.

What could go wrong?

Our argument is not that a hike is inherently bullish for gold.

Historically, hikes have tended to be negative for gold if they strengthen the US dollar, lift real yields and boost sentiment If a hiking cycle materially improves the market’s assessment of Fed credibility, gold could face additional pressure.

Some physical markets appear to have softened, with discounts in India, South Korea and anecdotal evidence of some selling in Japan. Global gold ETF flows have been lacklustre in May. The possibility of sporadic official-sector swaps or sales remains as the Hormuz Strait standoff continues. Technically, gold remains vulnerable – perched on its 200-day moving average, in what looks like a declining channel.

The largest near-term risk may come from energy markets. Oil is dominating headlines and inflation expectations, as well as driving bond yields. A sharp rise in energy prices driven by inventory depletion could initially push yields higher, strengthen the dollar and extend gold’s current malaise before the longer-term implications become apparent.7

Our main models generally associate rate rises with gold price falls, with price rises the exception rather than the rule. The argument here is simply that if hikes ultimately arrive, there is a reasonable case for the exception to occur. Rather than reinforcing confidence, markets may interpret them as evidence of underlying fragility.

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JewelBuzz is Asia’s First Digital Jewellery Media & India’s No.1 B2B Jewellery Magazine, published by AM Media House. Since 2016, we’ve been the trusted source for jewellery news, market trends, trade insights, exhibitions, podcasts, and brand stories, connecting jewellers, retailers, and industry professionals worldwide.

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