International News
Historic Mughal Emerald Jewels to Lead Christie’s Magnificent Jewels Auction in New York
Over 2,000 carats of rare Mughal-era emeralds and multi-gem treasures — including a 470-carat centerpiece — headline a landmark sale alongside prestigious pieces from Anne Bass and Lucille Coleman collections.
Christie’s will showcase an extraordinary array of Mughal jewels at its upcoming Magnificent Jewels auction in New York on June 17, led by a remarkable carved emerald necklace bearing over 1,150 carats of Colombian emeralds. The historic piece is inscribed with the name Ahmad Shah Durrani, founder of the Durrani Empire, and features a massive 470-carat central emerald. Dating back to 1612, this jewel is steeped in royal heritage and has been linked in historical records with other legendary gems such as the Timur Ruby and the Koh-i-Noor diamond. It carries a pre-sale estimate of up to $3 million.
Two additional Mughal masterpieces will also feature in the sale. One is a multi-gem necklace set with four Colombian emeralds totaling nearly 800 carats, expected to fetch up to $3 million. The other is a remarkable necklace strung with over 2,000 carats of spinel and natural pearls, with eight stones engraved with the names of influential rulers including Delhi Sultan Muhammad ibn Tughluq, Mughal emperors Babur, Jahangir, and Shah Jahan. That piece is estimated to sell for as much as $2 million.
These jewels will be presented alongside the personal collection of philanthropist Anne Hendricks Bass, which includes 26 pieces from esteemed design houses such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, Cartier, and JAR. A standout from this collection is a pair of Van Cleef & Arpels diamond pendant earrings, estimated at up to $1.8 million, and a JAR sapphire, emerald, and diamond necklace, valued at up to $300,000.
Also featured in the auction is a group of nine Van Cleef & Arpels Mystery-Set jewels from the collection of philanthropist Lucille Coleman, described by Christie’s as a “significant” highlight of the sale.
With its blend of historical depth and iconic 20th-century design, the June auction promises to be one of the most compelling jewelry events of the year.
International News
Fluorescent Diamonds: GIA to Introduce Clearer Guidance
According to GIA, around 25% to 35% of all diamonds show some level of fluorescence. Greater transparency about this significant segment of the market could help improve confidence among both consumers and the jewellery trade.
Later this year, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) will introduce new wording in its diamond grading reports to reduce confusion about fluorescent diamonds. The update, expected in the fourth quarter, is one of the most important steps taken by a grading laboratory to explain this feature more clearly to both the jewellery trade and consumers.
Rapaport Intelligence Report explores what this change could mean for the diamond market. Fluorescence has had a long and complicated history. In the past, fluorescent diamonds often sold at premium prices. However, attitudes changed during the diamond boom of the 1970s and again after a grading controversy in South Korea in the early 1990s. Although later gemological research helped improve confidence in fluorescent diamonds, many buyers still view them negatively, and they often sell at discounted prices.
The report also looks at how these discounts have changed over the past six years through both strong and weak market conditions. In addition, the report explains two key questions: how fluorescence affects a diamond’s appearance and whether it influences its color grade. It also considers whether GIA’s new report comments could change how buyers view fluorescent diamonds.
The report revisits a long-debated issue—does fluorescence really affect a diamond’s beauty, or are today’s concerns mainly based on old perceptions that continue to influence buying decisions?
According to GIA, around 25% to 35% of all diamonds show some level of fluorescence. Greater transparency about this significant segment of the market could help improve confidence among both consumers and the jewellery trade.
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