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GSI detects undisclosed lab-grown diamonds in brown diamond jewelry amid rising demand for off-color naturals

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Gemological Science International (GSI), one of the world’s largest gemological organizations, has identified undisclosed lab-grown diamonds in jewelry set with natural brown diamonds. The discovery comes at a critical time, as the global jewelry trade increasingly promotes off-color natural diamonds, such as brown and champagne hues, as unique, fashionable, and affordable alternatives to traditional colorless stones.

Using advanced instrumentation, including Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR), Diamond View imaging, and Raman spectroscopy with liquid nitrogen cooling, GSI gemologists confirmed that several jewelry items contained lab-grown diamonds mixed alongside natural brown stones. The detected colors ranged from near colorless with faint brown modifiers to fancy dark brown.

This finding builds on GSI’s earlier research into colored lab-grown diamonds, which demonstrated that synthetics can mimic a broad spectrum of natural hues. Together, these results highlight the importance of rigorous screening protocols and transparent disclosure practices to protect both industry stakeholders and consumers.

“As the industry embraces natural brown diamonds, it is essential to safeguard their integrity in the marketplace,” said Debbie Azar, President and Co-Founder of GSI. “Our mission is to ensure consumer confidence by applying advanced science to protect retailers, manufacturers, and the trade — and to support the industry’s efforts to promote natural off-color diamonds with trust and transparency.”

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DiamondBuzz

Big, Slightly Tinted Diamonds: Object Of Desire In The US Market

Buyers Of 2.5-Carat and Up Pieces Are Increasingly Choosing Stones With J Color Or Lower, Sometimes Much Lower On The Color Scale

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Big, slightly tinted diamonds are suddenly the object of desire in the US — and the industry is asking why.

Buyers of 2.5-carat and up pieces are increasingly choosing stones with J color or lower, sometimes much lower on the color scale, say retailers and traders. That shift signals more than a fashion tweak: it reflects how affluent shoppers now want their diamonds to read as “natural” at a glance.

 Lab-grown gems typically come in the brightest, clearest grades, so a warmly hued, imperfect-looking stone has become a visible badge of authenticity — a deliberate antique vibe in a polished world where synthetics dominate. No surprise: The Knot reports that 61% of U.S. couples now pick lab-grown rings.

A report explores who’s buying these larger, lower-color stones, how cultural moments and celebrities — think Taylor Swift — helped fuel the taste for them, and why antique cuts seem particularly suited to carrying color. The piece also ties this appetite to broader marketing narratives, including De Beers’ push for so-called “Desert diamonds.”

It’s not all doom and gloom for mined diamonds. Larger sizes — especially 2 carats and above and long fancy shapes — have held up better than smaller goods over the past year. The report isolates this rising niche and asks the key question: can these warm-toned showstoppers withstand the continued rise of lab-grown competition?

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JewelBuzz is Asia’s First Digital Jewellery Media & India’s No.1 B2B Jewellery Magazine, published by AM Media House. Since 2016, we’ve been the trusted source for jewellery news, market trends, trade insights, exhibitions, podcasts, and brand stories, connecting jewellers, retailers, and industry professionals worldwide.

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