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Designer Focus

Every jewel is a story—a testament to resilience, craftsmanship and empowerment

Neeta Boochra, the Chairperson & Chief Designer of Neeta Boochra Jewellery is a maestro whose journey through the glittering world of gems and gold is a tapestry woven with the threads of family legacy and personal ambition. Jewellery design is a inheritance, a torch passed down through generations, ignited by the visionary spark of her grandfather-in-law, Seth Kastoor Chand Boochra. Apart from being a highly-regarded Jewellery Designer, she is also a social entrepreneur for women empowerment, motivational speaker, and celebrity columnist. She speaks to JewelBuzz about her passion, design philosophy, the jewellery design ecosystem…. and more.

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 Take us through your journey into jewellery designing: your inspiration, your beginnings, and your evolution into a renowned designer.

Neeta Boochra Jewellery is a story of passion and legacy, crafted with exquisite precision and imbued with a commitment to women’s empowerment. It is a celebration of passion and legacy that pays tribute to the visionary patriarch, Seth Kastoor Chand Boochra who laid the foundation of the jewellery business in the late 19th century popularly known as the “Silver King of India” and held a significant influence over the Nation’s silver prices. 

Under the tutelage of my father-in-law, Seth Lalit Kumar Boochra, I embarked on a quest to redefine luxury, craftsmanship, and societal impact. From the hallowed halls of tradition emerged “Neeta Boochra Jewellery,” a brand that echoes with the whispers of heritage and the bold strokes of modernity. As the Chief Designer of Neeta Boochra Jewellery, I have  carved a niche for myself crafting masterpieces that transcend time and trends. Each piece is a narrative woven with threads of resilience, passion, and empowerment. But her vision doesn’t stop there. 

What is your design philosophy? 

I believe in mix and match, blend of myriad tastes, old traditional design with innovative indo-western ideas that gives freshness and fragrance to jewelry. Whether it is natural gemstones, silver, antique jadau or polki, I have carved masterpieces out of all keeping the global women in mind. Be it purity and designs, transparency in pricing or the shopping experience, we pay equal attention to all aspects to craft a memorable user journey. It is this meticulous attention to details that has given us a loyal base of customers who swear by our quality and brand value when it comes to buying jewelry. 

The brand is built on the pillars of impeccable quality, finest workmanship and tremendous value for money. Ever since its inception, the brand’s single minded focus is to provide finest jewelry at the most honest prices, while standing high on the pedestals of quality and transparency. Over the years, the brand has evolved and grown tremendously, all the while diversifying its design portfolio to suit the changing taste and choice of the customers.

What are your favourite metals, stones and other materials? 

In our design process, 925 Silver, also known as Sterling Silver, holds a special place as our core material. It’s not only durable and versatile, but it also allows us to craft timeless pieces with a modern sensibility. When paired with natural gemstones, the result is truly stunning. We particularly love working with Aquamarine, Tourmaline, Lapis Lazuli, Turquoise, and Malachite—each of these stones has a unique charm and depth of color that can instantly elevate any design.

We also specialize in Polkis and Moissanite Polkis, both of which add a classic, regal touch to our creations. Kundan Meena work is another area we’re passionate about, as it beautifully merges traditional craftsmanship with contemporary appeal. Additionally, we adore restoring and reimagining antique pieces.

Take us through the creation process of your unique, innovative  jewellery pieces/ collections.

The creation process of our jewelry pieces is a beautiful journey that marries tradition with innovation, craftsmanship with creativity. Every piece we design begins with a vision—whether inspired by nature, art, culture, or personal stories. Here’s a step-by-step look at how we bring our unique, innovative collections to life:

Inspiration & Conceptualization:

  • Gathering inspiration from various sources.
  • Translating ideas into sketches, mood boards, and color palettes.

Material Selection:

  • Choosing high-quality materials like 925 Silver and gemstones.
  • Considering the aesthetic appeal and symbolic meaning of each material.

Design & Prototyping:

  • Creating prototypes using traditional techniques and skilled artisans.
  • Focusing on intricate details like Kundan Meena work and Polki settings.

Refining & Customization:

  • Examining and refining the prototype for balance, symmetry, and comfort.
  • Offering customization options to meet individual client preferences.

Finalizing & Finishing Touches:

  • Polishing, cleaning, and ensuring secure gemstone settings.
  • Conducting rigorous quality checks to guarantee perfection.

Bringing Antique Pieces to Life:

  • Restoring and reinterpreting antique jewelry, blending history with modern design.

Final Presentation:

  • Designing elegant packaging to enhance the overall experience of receiving and wearing the jewelry.

Your comments on demi-fine jewellery –a category that bridges the gap between fine jewellery and fashion jewellery.Do you see  a trend in this category?

Demi-fine jewelry is rapidly emerging as a growing trend, offering an exciting blend of fine and fashion jewelry. As consumers seek more accessible price points without compromising on luxury or craftsmanship, this category has found its niche, providing elegant, versatile pieces for everyday wear or special occasions, including destination weddings, chic events, and personal milestones.

Combining high-quality materials such as 925 silver, semi-precious stones, and gold vermeil, demi-fine jewelry delivers the perfect balance of affordability and timeless appeal. It caters to those who desire the elegance of fine jewelry without the hefty price tag, offering a seamless transition from day to night.

This market segment is particularly attractive to modern consumers, especially women seeking both practicality and sophistication. With its rising popularity, demi-fine jewelry is becoming a strong contender in the global jewelry market, poised for continued growth.

As an entrepreneur, what are the lessons you have learnt in establishing a business, strategy for growth, brand positioning etc. How does one balance creativity with commercial viability and changing consumer preferences?

Establishing a business has been an incredibly rewarding yet challenging journey. The lessons I’ve learned along the way have shaped my approach to both creativity and commercial viability, which are essential to sustaining long-term growth.

Key Lessons Learned

Uncompromising Quality: Prioritizing high-quality materials and meticulous craftsmanship in every piece. Building a reputation for timeless elegance and customer trust.

Adaptability & Agility: Continuously evolving to meet changing market demands and consumer preferences. Embracing new trends while maintaining brand identity.

Customer Relationships: Focusing on building strong relationships with customers, suppliers, and partners. Prioritizing emotional connections and fostering word-of-mouth recommendations.

Growth & Brand Positioning Strategy

Strong Brand Identity:Crafting a distinct brand narrative that resonates with customers.Positioning the brand as a blend of tradition and contemporary design.

Digital Presence:Leveraging e-commerce and social media platforms to connect with a global audience.Utilizing digital channels for showcasing collections and engaging with customers.

Sustainable Growth:Prioritizing long-term, sustainable growth over rapid expansion.Focusing on careful diversification, market exploration, and maintaining design integrity.

Finding the Balance:Striking a balance between staying true to the brand vision and responding to market trendsCreating timeless pieces that resonate with both current and future generations of jewelry lovers.

Your comments on the current jewellery designing segment in India? What is the standing and brand positioning of India’s jewellery designers on the global stage? After MAKE IN INDIA, are we ready for DESIGN IN INDIA?

The jewelry design industry in India is undergoing a transformative evolution, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern aesthetics to create a vibrant and dynamic landscape. While India has long been celebrated for its intricate designs, heritage craftsmanship, and use of precious metals and stones, there is a growing shift toward contemporary and minimalist styles. This change is driven by younger, globalized consumers seeking unique, versatile, and personalized pieces.

Indian jewelry designers are making significant strides on the global stage, gaining recognition in luxury markets for their distinctive, handcrafted creations that merge cultural richness with international appeal. With a heritage of gemstone expertise and innovative design, India is well-positioned to expand its influence in markets such as the US, Europe, and the Middle East, offering bespoke and artistic alternatives to mass-produced jewelry. This fusion of tradition and modernity signals immense potential for growth, both nationally and internationally, in the evolving jewelry design sector.

The MAKE IN INDIA initiative was a pivotal step for the country, fostering manufacturing and production at scale. It focused on making India a global manufacturing hub, and the jewelry industry certainly benefitted from this with increased production capabilities and export opportunities.

However, we are now at a stage where India’s jewelry designers need to transition from being primarily known for manufacturing and craftsmanship to becoming global leaders in design. DESIGN IN INDIA is not just about producing beautiful pieces—it’s about creating innovative, original, and internationally relevant designs that can compete with the best in the world.

What is potential for Indian designers to collaborate with global brands and top international designers?

The potential for Indian jewelry designers to collaborate with global brands and top international designers is immense and continues to grow as both the global luxury market and the demand for unique, high-quality craftsmanship expand. These collaborations are not only an opportunity for Indian designers to gain international exposure but also a chance to infuse global designs with the rich heritage, artistry, and intricate techniques that India is known for.

What’s your message for aspiring, as well as practicing, jewellery designers?

For aspiring and practicing jewelry designers, my message is simple: Stay true to your craft, embrace innovation, and never stop learning.

For aspiring and practicing jewelry designers, success lies in balancing artistic expression with technical expertise and business acumen. Designers should continuously hone their skills, embrace creativity, and produce unique pieces that tell a story. Equally important is understanding the business side, including branding, marketing, and customer engagement, to thrive in the competitive market. Collaboration, adaptability, and staying attuned to industry trends are key to evolving with the times. Building strong relationships and maintaining patience and persistence are vital for long-term growth. Above all, let your designs reflect passion, innovation, and a commitment to excellence, leaving a lasting legacy in the world of jewelry.

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Designer Focus

Valani Atelier:Inspired by the quiet order of nature, symmetry of architecture and the emotional  resonance of human stories.

Heena Shah, Valani Atelier underscores how her design is at the  intersection of art, engineering, and emotion.

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Speaking to JewelBuzz she passionately explains that she is  inspired by the quiet order of nature, the symmetry of architecture, and the emotional  resonance of human stories.She talks of her design philosophy, creative process, commercial viability and more

How would you describe the core design philosophy of Valani Atelier? 

At Valani Atelier, we design at the intersection of art, engineering, and emotion. Guided by  the Golden Ratio, each piece is a study in s, ymmetry and proportion—where precision  meets poetry. My background in industrial engineering shapes our creative process,  ensuring every curve and contour achieves both structural integrity and aesthetic harmony.  Inspired by nature’s geometry and modern architecture, our jewelry balances innovation  with timelessness. We believe true luxury lies in creating beauty that endures—pieces that  resonate not just in the moment, but for generations to come. 

What inspires your creations — art, architecture, nature, or personal  emotion? 

I’m inspired by the quiet order of nature, the symmetry of architecture, and the emotional  resonance of human stories. Each Valani Atelier creation begins with a fascination for  proportion and harmony—often guided by the Golden Ratio—to reveal beauty through  balance. My engineering background shapes how I translate this structure into design,  where mathematics meets emotion and precision becomes poetry. 

Equally, I’m inspired by the artisans who bring these visions to life. Their craftsmanship  fuels my commitment to social innovation—using design to preserve heritage skills, create  equitable value chains, and prove that beauty and impact can coexist by design. 

How do you balance traditional craftsmanship with contemporary  aesthetics in your designs? 

I strive to bridge the gap between heritage and innovation in my jewelry designs. Rooted in  traditional craftsmanship, my work showcases meticulous stone setting, intricate  detailing, and time-honored techniques that reflect the legacy of fine jewelry making. Each  piece is crafted with precision, honoring the artisanal skills that define luxury. At the same  time, I aim to infuse my creations with a bold, contemporary spirit. My designs feature  striking gemstone arrangements, unexpected silhouettes, and organic forms that speak to  modern sensibilities. Whether it’s a sculptural emerald ring or a floral-inspired ruby piece, I  enjoy reimagining classic motifs through a fresh, artistic lens—creating jewelry that feels  both timeless and current. My work is a celebration of duality: the elegance of tradition and  the excitement of innovation, brought together in pieces that resonate with today’s  confident, expressive wearer.

How has your design approach evolved since founding Valani Atelier? 

Since founding Valani Atelier, my design approach has evolved from classic elegance to a  more expressive and contemporary aesthetic. Early pieces focused on symmetry,  traditional prong settings, and timeless gemstone combinations like emeralds and  diamonds. Over time, I’ve embraced bolder silhouettes, asymmetrical compositions, and  nature-inspired forms. Color has become more adventurous, and the interplay between  structure and softness is more pronounced. While my commitment to craftsmanship  remains unwavering, this evolution reflects a journey—from honoring tradition to redefining  it—crafting jewelry that speaks to modern individuality while preserving the soul of  timeless artistry. 

Could you walk us through your creative process—from concept sketch  to final piece? 

Each jewelry piece I create begins as a spark of inspiration—sometimes it’s the gentle  curve of a leaf, the interplay of light and shadow in a cityscape, or a fleeting emotion that  lingers in my mind. I start by sketching these ideas by hand, letting the lines and shapes  evolve naturally on paper. As I select gemstones, I place them directly onto my sketches,  experimenting with color and balance until the composition feels just right. The process is  tactile and intuitive, blending artistry with technical precision as I refine every detail to  ensure the design is both beautiful and wearable. Once the vision is clear, I work with  skilled artisans to bring the piece to life, translating my sketches into prototypes and  carefully setting each stone by hand. The final step is always a moment of quiet  satisfaction—polishing, inspecting, and perfecting the piece so it can be worn as a true  expression of individuality and elegance. 

What gemstones are you personally drawn to, and why? Do you have a  favorite metal to work with? 

I am deeply drawn to the expressive beauty of emeralds and rubies. These gemstones are  not only rich in color and symbolism but also offer a timeless elegance that aligns with my  design philosophy. Emeralds evoke a sense of renewal and sophistication, while rubies  bring warmth and passion. My favorite metal to work with is white gold, chosen for its  clean, luminous finish and ability to enhance the brilliance of colored gemstones. It  provides a modern yet classic foundation, allowing my designs to feel both luxurious and  wearable.

How do you ensure that each design retains a sense of individuality while  maintaining the brand’s signature style? 

For me, every design begins with a unique inspiration—sometimes it’s the character of a  gemstone, a fleeting moment in nature, or a personal memory. I strive to let each piece  have its own voice, while still reflecting the signature elegance and expressive forms that  define Valani Atelier. By collaborating closely with artisans and refining every detail, I  ensure that individuality shines through, yet each creation remains unmistakably part of my  brand’s story. 

Is there a particular piece or collection that you feel best embodies the  essence of Valani Atelier? 

The Andromeda collection. My fascination for celestial formations began while star gazing  at night with my young son. Peering through a tiny lens, we witnessed how newly formed  star clusters lay in the center of a nebulae. The Andromeda series attempts to capture a  glimpse of the galaxy by aligning magnificent center gemstones to fancy cut trillions and  brilliant rounds. 

In a market increasingly driven by trends, how do you ensure commercial  viability without compromising artistry? 

I design with longevity in mind, favoring classic silhouettes and enduring materials like  emeralds, rubies, and gold. Yet, I stay attuned to evolving tastes by incorporating subtle  trend-forward elements, such as modern cuts, asymmetry, or unexpected color pairings.  By offering limited-edition collections and custom design services, I preserve artistic  freedom while meeting market demand. This model allows me to experiment creatively  without overproducing or diluting my brand identity. 

What challenges do independent jewelry designers face when scaling a  brand globally? 

Scaling a jewelry brand globally brings unique challenges, especially when it comes to  adapting designs for different cultures. For example, when I introduced the Andromeda  collection in Texas, I noticed that clients were drawn to pieces with bold, vibrant gemstones  and larger, statement settings—reflecting the region’s love for expressive style and  individuality. This experience taught me the importance of listening to local preferences  and being flexible with my designs, while still staying true to the core identity of Valani  Atelier. Balancing universal appeal with local relevance is an ongoing journey, but it’s also  what makes global expansion so rewarding.

How do you see the role of storytelling and branding in attracting today’s  luxury consumer? 

Today’s luxury consumer, especially Gen Z, is drawn to authenticity, individuality, and  sustainability. I embrace this shift by sharing the real journey behind each piece—from my  sketches to the final creation. By highlighting my creative process, ethical sourcing, and  artisan craftsmanship, I build trust and emotional connection with younger audiences. I  meet them where they are—online—through visually rich storytelling, behind-the-scenes  content, and interactive experiences that make the brand both aspirational and accessible. 

Have you noticed a shift in what younger clients look for in fine jewellery  compared to older generations? 

Younger clients seek versatility, meaning, and design-forward pieces that reflect their  identity, while older generations often prioritize heritage, investment value, and classic  elegance. I strive to bridge these preferences by offering pieces that are artistically timeless  yet emotionally current, appealing across generations while staying true to my brand’s  DNA. 

Closing remarks and message to young jewelry designers 

Your creativity is your compass. In a world full of trends and noise, stay rooted in your  vision. Let your designs speak not just through beauty, but through the stories you tell, the  materials you choose, and the values you uphold. Remember: every sketch is a seed, every  gemstone a voice, and every finished piece a reflection of your soul. Keep designing with  intention, and the world will listen.

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JewelBuzz is Asia’s First Digital Jewellery Media & India’s No.1 B2B Jewellery Magazine, published by AM Media House. Since 2016, we’ve been the trusted source for jewellery news, market trends, trade insights, exhibitions, podcasts, and brand stories, connecting jewellers, retailers, and industry professionals worldwide.

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