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The Quiet Luxury of Carved Gemstones

By Ramit Kapur,MD – GSI India

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The world of gemstones is beyond their brilliance, color, transparency, and phenomena. When we think of carvings, we’re not just talking about gemstones used in jewellery. Carving today spans everything from trays and coasters we use every day to idols, vases, and other collectibles that become cherished pieces of art. It’s an often-overlooked art form that deserves recognition for the immense artistry and craftsmanship involved.

As someone deeply embedded in the industry and leading GSI India, I can confidently say that people won’t invest in a piece; no matter how precious the stone: if the carving isn’t done right. So, the first selling point centers around craftsmanship, of course followed by the authenticity and value of the gemstone used.

The quiet poetry of carved gemstones exists beyond the bounds of conventional jewellery design and often go unnoticed in mainstream narratives. Yet they carry some of the richest legacies, the most intimate expressions of craftsmanship, and a cultural gravity that no ideal cut or laser inscription can replicate. Today, as jewellery evolves into a medium of meaning and identity, carved gemstones are experiencing a powerful resurgence. Whether it’s a delicate floral motif on a tourmaline or a symbolic script etched into an emerald, these stones embody permanence with purpose.

For a generation that values intention over ornament, carvings offer exactly that: a wearable emotion, a personal artifact, and a story that transcends carat weight. At GSI, we celebrate jewellery in every form, especially those that carry soul, tradition, and storytelling in their very structure.

From Courts and Temples to Contemporary Studios

Gemstone carving isn’t a trend; it is a tradition. Long before modern jewellery, carved gems were speaking their own language: one of spirit, status, and storytelling. From temple idols to royal signets, they’ve carried meanings deeper than beauty.

Two classical techniques form the backbone of this craft: Intaglios, with designs engraved below the surface for wax seals, and Cameos, where raised motifs emerge in sculptural relief. Both require not just precision, but intuition, a dialogue between artist and stone.

Germany’s Idar-Oberstein remains a living museum of this legacy. Here, stones like agate and jasper are sculpted into heirlooms, passed down as both art and ancestry. Every piece is a story carved in silence.

If Idar-Oberstein is Europe’s carving capital, Jaipur is India’s beating heart. Developed with Mughal patronage particularly by emperors Akbar, Jahangir, and Shah Jahan for their distinguished taste in art, it has since then grown into a global hub; transforming roughs into divine figures, florals, and high fashion commissions. Its edge? A rare blend of old-world mastery and new-world relevance.

And then, there’s Fabergé: the master of turning carving into couture. His works in quartz and chalcedony weren’t just intricate; they were emotional. A blossom. A bunny. A memory in mineral form.

Today, carving is everywhere; from bespoke jewels to vases, coasters, and collectibles. Artists across the world are reimagining tradition for the now. And in an age of instant everything, carved gemstones stand apart: timelessness you can touch, and craftsmanship that speaks with soul.

What the Eye Misses, the Lab Must Find

Carved stones pose a very unique gemological challenge. At our GSI labs, we encounter an extraordinary variety of carved gemstones; each one unique in form, scale, and sentiment. Some are delicately slivered into symbolic motifs, while others are grand in presence, demanding custom instrument setups and careful handling. Testing these pieces, especially when set in jewellery, requires precision, adaptability, and a deep understanding of gemstone behavior.

Carvings, by nature, are emotionally charged. They’re often adored not just for beauty, but for meaning. But emotion must be backed by authentication and the right certification; especially in today’s high-value, high-stakes market. Whether it’s identifying treatments, or distinguishing natural from imitations, our role is to bring clarity to complexity.

At GSI, we don’t just verify a gemstone; we translate its unspoken story. From the delicate depths of an intaglio to the elevated relief of a cameo, our certification doesn’t just protect value; it protects legacy.

Technology Has Unlocked New Possibilities

Modern lapidaries are now able to carve harder materials with precision that was once unthinkable. For a long time, artists chose softer, more affordable stones, to avoid breakage, and preserve weight. Using precious gems was simply too risky. But with time and technology, that’s changed. Today, gem material like sapphire, spinel, and topaz, once considered too delicate to sculpt, are being carved with remarkable precision. What was once unthinkable is now part of the craft’s evolving canvas.

But while tools evolve, the soul of carving stays rooted in intention, vision, and a deep respect for the stone’s natural voice. That interplay between human and mineral is what makes a carving come alive.

Today, luxury is no longer defined by price tags or perfection alone; it’s about meaning, craftsmanship, and cultural richness. Carved gemstones carry all of that, and more.

At GSI, we believe that true appreciation begins with understanding. Whether it’s a carved idol, a custom tray, or a fine piece of jewellery, the value of a gemstone lies in both its beauty and its authenticity. That’s why certification matters: not just for what a gem is, but for the story it tells.

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JB Insights

Women Leaders Driving the Luxury Renaissance

How Female Leaders Are Redefining the Future of Luxury Watches & Jewellery. A powerful new era emerges as top global maisons embrace female leadership, reshaping strategy, creativity, and the future of billion-dollar luxury empires.

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For decades, the world of fine jewellery and luxury watchmaking has dazzled with feminine allure—yet the boardrooms steering these global luxury giants remained largely dominated by men. While women have always been the heart of the industry as consumers, muses, and creative inspirations. Today, that narrative is being rewritten.

Across the globe, luxury watch and jewellery houses are witnessing a historic shift: women are increasingly taking centre stage as CEOs, artistic directors, and decision-makers, steering strategy and shaping the future of some of the world’s most iconic brands. This rise of female leadership is not just a symbolic change—it’s redefining the creative and commercial landscape of the luxury sector.

A Spotlight on Powerful Women Shaping the Industry

Here are some of the remarkable women redefining the luxury frontier:

Caroline Scheufele, Co-President & Artistic Director, Chopard

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The creative force behind some of Chopard’s most iconic collections, Caroline Scheufele blends heritage with modernity, championing craftsmanship and sustainability.

Ilaria Resta, CEO, Audemars Piguet

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With her dynamic leadership and consumer-centric vision, Ilaria Resta is guiding the watchmaking powerhouse into a new era of relevance and cultural presence.

Catherine Rénier, CEO, Van Cleef & Arpels

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Known for her strategic elegance, Catherine Rénier is strengthening the maison’s identity through poetic storytelling and exceptional artistry.

Laura Burdese, Deputy CEO, Bvlgari

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Laura Burdese
plays a pivotal role in steering Bvlgari’s global expansion, bringing a strategic, bold approach to one of the most recognisable luxury brands.

Sabina Belli, CEO, Pomellato

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A champion of women empowerment, Sabina Belli is credited with elevating Pomellato’s identity as a modern, fashion-forward jewellery brand with deep Milanese roots.

Hélène Poulit-Duquesne, CEO, Boucheron

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Her leadership has pushed Boucheron into an exciting contemporary phase, blending innovation with emotional storytelling and bold design.

A Shift That Goes Beyond Leadership

This rise of women in top leadership roles is influencing every facet of the luxury jewellery ecosystem:

  • Design philosophies are evolving with deeper emotional narratives, inclusivity, and modern cultural relevance.
  • Brand strategies increasingly reflect values like sustainability, authenticity, and empowerment.
  • Consumer engagement is becoming more experiential, storytelling-driven, and globally attuned.

These executives are not simply filling leadership positions—they are reshaping the definition of luxury itself.

The New Blueprint for the Future

The ascent of female leaders marks a pivotal moment for an industry long shaped by tradition. Their vision is ushering in a new era where creativity meets strategic innovation, and where luxury houses embrace contemporary values without compromising on heritage.

The future of luxury watches and jewellery is being rewritten—and women are holding the pen.

As global maisons continue to embrace this transformation, one thing is certain: the industry is entering its most exciting chapter yet, driven by the creativity, clarity, and leadership of exceptional women at the helm.

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JewelBuzz is Asia’s First Digital Jewellery Media & India’s No.1 B2B Jewellery Magazine, published by AM Media House. Since 2016, we’ve been the trusted source for jewellery news, market trends, trade insights, exhibitions, podcasts, and brand stories, connecting jewellers, retailers, and industry professionals worldwide.

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