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The New Diamond Dilemma: Why Advanced Certification is the Key to Industry Integrity

By Ramit Kapur, MD, Gemological Science International (GSI)

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The diamond industry stands at a critical juncture. In recent years, technological advancements in diamond synthesis have reached unprecedented levels, pushing the industry into a new era where distinguishing between natural and man-made diamonds has become increasingly complex. As production scales up, the quality of these diamonds is also improving, making traditional identification methods insufficient.

This evolution brings both opportunity and challenge. While the industry has embraced innovation, it must also address a pressing concern: ensuring absolute transparency at every stage of the supply chain. The risk of undisclosed mixing has never been higher, making rigorous certification no longer just a safeguard but an absolute necessity.

The Silent Challenge of Undisclosed Mixing

Unlike the past, where visual and basic spectroscopic assessments could easily differentiate natural diamonds from their counterparts, today’s landscape demands a far more advanced approach. New-generation diamonds are engineered to exhibit characteristics nearly identical to those of natural diamonds, making detection a sophisticated scientific endeavor.

Contamination; whether accidental or deliberate, can occur at multiple points in the supply chain. From loose sorting, bagging to jewelry manufacturing, from wholesale distribution to retail, an undisclosed stone can enter at any stage. Even a single instance of an undetected mix-up can erode consumer confidence and jeopardize the credibility of a business. For retailers, the challenge is clear: without a verified certification from a reputable gemological laboratory, there is always a room for doubt of what they are purchasing. 

For decades, the 4Cs; Cut, Color, Clarity, and Carat weight, were the industry’s gold standard for determining a diamond’s value. However, while these parameters still hold fundamental importance, they do not address the crucial question of authenticity of the nature of origin. In an environment where sophisticated processes are used to create diamonds that look, feel, and test like natural stones under conventional methods, reliance on legacy techniques and stereotypical thought processes is no longer sufficient. 

Labs Beyond Traditional Grading: 

This is where gemological laboratories play a decisive role. A laboratory’s function today goes far beyond grading; it is about continuous research, technological innovation, and investment in cutting-edge detection capabilities. The methods that were effective yesterday will not be enough tomorrow. Laboratories must remain ahead of the curve, upgrading methodologies, instruments, and expertise in real-time.

The Need for Constant Evolution in Laboratory Science

At GSI, we recognize that the industry’s ability to maintain transparency hinges on the gemological community’s ability to evolve. As detection challenges grow, so do our efforts to stay ahead.

Investing in state-of-the-art instrumentation is not a one-time effort; it is an ongoing commitment. New techniques demand new solutions, and old detection methods quickly become obsolete. As the industry progresses, our labs must not only adopt the latest technologies but also develop pioneering research to stay one step ahead.

This is why at GSI, our facilities are equipped with the world’s most sophisticated diamond detection instruments, designed to analyze, verify, and certify with absolute precision. We work closely with industry partners, scientific research institutions, and technology developers to ensure that we are at the forefront of gemological advancements.

Retailers: The First Line of Consumer Protection

For retailers, advanced certification is more than a formality; it is a responsibility. Consumer trust is fragile, and in an age where buyers are more informed than ever, transparency is non-negotiable. A diamond with an undisclosed identity can severely impact business credibility, making independent verification through a trusted laboratory indispensable.

Here’s why comprehensive certification is essential for every retailer:

  • Absolute Authenticity: Ensures diamonds are precisely what they are represented to be, eliminating any risk of misrepresentation and contamination. 
  • Regulatory Adherence: With global authorities tightening disclosure norms, compliance is no longer optional.
  • Consumer Confidence: Buyers rely on retailers for assurance; a certified diamond reinforces their trust in the purchase.
  • Industry Integrity: Prevents undisclosed mixing, preserving the credibility of businesses and the market at large.

The diamond industry is built on trust. As innovations in diamond production continue to advance, the need for transparency will only intensify. The responsibility to uphold this integrity does not rest with laboratories alone: retailers, wholesalers, and manufacturers must collectively prioritize certification as a fundamental business practice.

At GSI, we are committed to supporting the industry through scientific precision, technological advancement, and a dedication to detection excellence. Our goal is simple: to ensure that every diamond reaching a consumer is exactly what it claims to be.

For retailers, the message is clear: certification is not just a step in the process; it is the foundation of a credible and successful business. Ensuring that every piece of jewelry is independently verified is not just about safeguarding transactions; it is about safeguarding trust, the most valuable asset in the diamond industry.

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DiamondBuzz

U.S. couples spent 5% less on engagement rings in 2024 : The Knot

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In recent years, the engagement ring market has witnessed significant changes, particularly in consumer spending and gemstone preferences. According to a report by The Knot, U.S. couples spent approximately 5% less on engagement rings in 2024 compared to the previous year. The average cost of an engagement ring fell from $5,500 in 2023 to $5,200 in 2024, marking a 10% decline from 2022 and a 13% decrease from 2021. This trend aligns with the increasing preference for lab-grown diamond center stones, which, for the first time, accounted for more than half of all engagement rings purchased. The shift towards synthetic diamonds has surged by 40% since 2019, contributing significantly to the downward trend in overall spending on engagement rings.

The rise in demand for lab-grown diamonds is not only reducing costs but also influencing the size of center stones. While the average cost of a natural diamond engagement ring remains at $7,600, couples who opt for lab-grown alternatives tend to select larger stones. In 2024, the average engagement ring center stone measured 1.7 carats, an increase from the 1.5-carat average in 2021. This shift suggests that couples are prioritizing carat size while seeking more affordable alternatives to mined diamonds. Additionally, shape and metal preferences have remained relatively stable, with round and oval cuts being the most popular, and white and yellow gold accounting for over 70% of engagement ring settings. Notably, yellow gold has increased in popularity by 5% year-over-year, while white gold has declined by 3%.

Beyond gemstone and metal choices, setting styles are also evolving. Prong settings continue to dominate, with 35% of respondents selecting this classic option. However, the hidden halo setting—a cluster of diamonds encircling the base of the center stone—has gained traction, capturing 18% of the market and surpassing the traditional halo setting, which saw a decline to 13%. This trend reflects a shift in aesthetic preferences among modern couples who seek a balance between timeless elegance and contemporary design. Moreover, the engagement ring purchasing process has become more meticulous. Over half of proposers spent between one and four months researching and selecting a ring, with a quarter taking even longer. The increase in shopping duration correlates with a rise in the number of jewelers visited. On average, proposers explored five stores in 2024, compared to just two in 2022 and 2023, underscoring the importance of in-person evaluation before making a purchase.

The engagement ring industry continues to adapt to evolving consumer behavior, as financial considerations, ethical concerns, and aesthetic trends shape purchasing decisions. With lab-grown diamonds offering an affordable yet visually identical alternative to natural diamonds, the shift in spending and preferences is likely to persist. As couples become more discerning and invested in the selection process, the future of the engagement ring market may see further innovations and adjustments to meet the needs of modern consumers.

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Taapsee Pannu & Sania Mirza Unveil Aukera’s Signature Collection: Echoes of Choice

The exclusive launch event at President, IHCL SeleQtions Mumbai marks the debut of Aukera’s empowering “Echoes of Choice” collection, celebrating women’s strength, individuality, and fearless decisions.

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Aukera, India’s leading lab-grown diamond jewellery brand, unveiled its highly anticipated Echoes of Choice Signature Collection at an exclusive press event held at President, IHCL SeleQtions Mumbai today. This collection is part of Aukera’s My Choice My Voice campaign, which inspires and empowers women to own their decisions and stand by their beliefs. The powerful slogan, “My Choice. My Voice,” calls on women everywhere to redefine empowerment.

The launch event was graced by actress Taapsee Pannu and tennis icon Sania Mirza, the faces of Aukera’s campaign.

The Echoes of Choice collection draws inspiration from the idea that a single choice, much like a sound wave, reverberates, creating a lasting impact. The collection transforms the power of choice into exquisite jewellery, featuring rings, hoops, bracelets, and pendants crafted in 18K gold. It also debuts Aukera’s signature E3 Diamond, a specially engineered cut that reflects the brilliance and resilience of every woman. Each piece is designed to mirror the peaks of a sound wave, symbolizing strength, courage, and the ripple effect of the fearless choices women make.

Lisa Mukhedkar, Founder & CEO of Aukera, emphasized that the brand is not just a jewellery line but a movement for freedom and self-expression. “Echoes of Choice is a collective campaign that empowers women to make choices and reject compromises. We’ve tried to recreate women’s qualities of individuality and purpose through the aesthetics of this collection. Sania Mirza and Taapsee Pannu are trailblazers who have made bold choices in both their personal and professional lives, reflecting our brand’s core values. We trust women will enjoy this collection as much as we enjoyed creating it.”

Tennis icon Sania Mirza passionately affirmed, “I believe in making my own choices. The Aukera Echoes of Choice—worn on my right hand—is a symbol of strength and determination.”

Filmfare Award Winner, Actor Taapsee Pannu proudly shared, “I stand by my choices. The Aukera Echoes of Choice on my right hand represents confidence and individuality.”

The Echoes of Choice campaign has been sparking nationwide conversations through curated storytelling, exclusive appearances, and digital engagement. Backed by a combination of print, digital, radio, in-store, and outdoor promotions, the campaign amplifies the voices of women who dare to make bold choices. The collection has already created waves with women across the country echoing My Choice, My Voice, Aukera.

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DiamondBuzz

China Reignites Diamond Demand, Boosting Indian Traders and Prices

After a two-year hiatus, Chinese buyers return to purchasing Indian-cut diamonds, sparking optimism for Surat’s diamond industry and boosting rough diamond prices.

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After nearly two years of inactivity, China has resumed purchasing diamonds cut and polished in India, rekindling hope for Indian diamond traders and positively influencing rough diamond prices. This resurgence in demand, marked by Chinese buyers replenishing stocks at the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show (March 4-8), is expected to rejuvenate diamond production in Surat, India’s diamond cutting and polishing hub, and provide a much-needed boost to the country’s diamond exports.

China, which had primarily focused on buying gold during the past two years, is India’s second-largest diamond export market after the United States. This renewed interest is particularly significant for Surat, where diamond production had stagnated without Chinese orders. India currently handles the cutting and polishing of nine out of ten diamonds sold worldwide.

The mood at the recent Hong Kong Jewellery Show was notably more optimistic than the last event in September, with Chinese buyers showing more interest after a period of reduced spending on diamonds, driven by the belief that gold holds more value. Despite this cautious optimism, diamond exports to Hong Kong, the primary route for Indian exports to China, have dropped significantly—down 28% in FY24 and a further 60% through February of this fiscal year.

With Chinese demand starting to pick up, rough diamond prices have surged by 3-4%. “While we remain cautiously optimistic, we are unsure how long this recovery will last,” said Kirit Bhansali, chairman of the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council. “The market dynamics are shifting, and we are adjusting our expectations accordingly.”

Although the Hong Kong show showed signs of recovery compared to the September 2024 event, industry leaders acknowledge that the diamond market has recalibrated. Turnovers for jewellery companies are now about 30% to 40% lower than previous years, suggesting that stakeholders must adapt their strategies to the new normal.

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