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The New Diamond Dilemma: Why Advanced Certification is the Key to Industry Integrity

By Ramit Kapur, MD, Gemological Science International (GSI)

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The diamond industry stands at a critical juncture. In recent years, technological advancements in diamond synthesis have reached unprecedented levels, pushing the industry into a new era where distinguishing between natural and man-made diamonds has become increasingly complex. As production scales up, the quality of these diamonds is also improving, making traditional identification methods insufficient.

This evolution brings both opportunity and challenge. While the industry has embraced innovation, it must also address a pressing concern: ensuring absolute transparency at every stage of the supply chain. The risk of undisclosed mixing has never been higher, making rigorous certification no longer just a safeguard but an absolute necessity.

The Silent Challenge of Undisclosed Mixing

Unlike the past, where visual and basic spectroscopic assessments could easily differentiate natural diamonds from their counterparts, today’s landscape demands a far more advanced approach. New-generation diamonds are engineered to exhibit characteristics nearly identical to those of natural diamonds, making detection a sophisticated scientific endeavor.

Contamination; whether accidental or deliberate, can occur at multiple points in the supply chain. From loose sorting, bagging to jewelry manufacturing, from wholesale distribution to retail, an undisclosed stone can enter at any stage. Even a single instance of an undetected mix-up can erode consumer confidence and jeopardize the credibility of a business. For retailers, the challenge is clear: without a verified certification from a reputable gemological laboratory, there is always a room for doubt of what they are purchasing. 

For decades, the 4Cs; Cut, Color, Clarity, and Carat weight, were the industry’s gold standard for determining a diamond’s value. However, while these parameters still hold fundamental importance, they do not address the crucial question of authenticity of the nature of origin. In an environment where sophisticated processes are used to create diamonds that look, feel, and test like natural stones under conventional methods, reliance on legacy techniques and stereotypical thought processes is no longer sufficient. 

Labs Beyond Traditional Grading: 

This is where gemological laboratories play a decisive role. A laboratory’s function today goes far beyond grading; it is about continuous research, technological innovation, and investment in cutting-edge detection capabilities. The methods that were effective yesterday will not be enough tomorrow. Laboratories must remain ahead of the curve, upgrading methodologies, instruments, and expertise in real-time.

The Need for Constant Evolution in Laboratory Science

At GSI, we recognize that the industry’s ability to maintain transparency hinges on the gemological community’s ability to evolve. As detection challenges grow, so do our efforts to stay ahead.

Investing in state-of-the-art instrumentation is not a one-time effort; it is an ongoing commitment. New techniques demand new solutions, and old detection methods quickly become obsolete. As the industry progresses, our labs must not only adopt the latest technologies but also develop pioneering research to stay one step ahead.

This is why at GSI, our facilities are equipped with the world’s most sophisticated diamond detection instruments, designed to analyze, verify, and certify with absolute precision. We work closely with industry partners, scientific research institutions, and technology developers to ensure that we are at the forefront of gemological advancements.

Retailers: The First Line of Consumer Protection

For retailers, advanced certification is more than a formality; it is a responsibility. Consumer trust is fragile, and in an age where buyers are more informed than ever, transparency is non-negotiable. A diamond with an undisclosed identity can severely impact business credibility, making independent verification through a trusted laboratory indispensable.

Here’s why comprehensive certification is essential for every retailer:

  • Absolute Authenticity: Ensures diamonds are precisely what they are represented to be, eliminating any risk of misrepresentation and contamination. 
  • Regulatory Adherence: With global authorities tightening disclosure norms, compliance is no longer optional.
  • Consumer Confidence: Buyers rely on retailers for assurance; a certified diamond reinforces their trust in the purchase.
  • Industry Integrity: Prevents undisclosed mixing, preserving the credibility of businesses and the market at large.

The diamond industry is built on trust. As innovations in diamond production continue to advance, the need for transparency will only intensify. The responsibility to uphold this integrity does not rest with laboratories alone: retailers, wholesalers, and manufacturers must collectively prioritize certification as a fundamental business practice.

At GSI, we are committed to supporting the industry through scientific precision, technological advancement, and a dedication to detection excellence. Our goal is simple: to ensure that every diamond reaching a consumer is exactly what it claims to be.

For retailers, the message is clear: certification is not just a step in the process; it is the foundation of a credible and successful business. Ensuring that every piece of jewelry is independently verified is not just about safeguarding transactions; it is about safeguarding trust, the most valuable asset in the diamond industry.

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DiamondBuzz

De Beers Presents “Voyage Through the Diamond Realm” at India Art Fair 2026 Featuring Lakshmi Madhavan

Immersive Installation Blends Natural-Coloured Diamonds with Lakshmi Madhavan’s Kasavu Art at India Art Fair 2026

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De Beers unveiled “Voyage Through the Diamond Realm,” at India Art Fair 2026. The immersive installation invites audiences to explore the mythical origins of diamonds. Through visual storytelling, scenography and soundscapes, the installation reveals the living heritage of diamonds, their cosmic and earthly journeys across time.

Positioned at the intersection of art, nature and human expression, the experience acknowledges diamonds beyond adornment — recognizing them as treasured masterpieces shaped by billions of years of time, pressure, and transformation. The multi-sensory narrative, drew parallels between geological creation and artistic practice, revealing how nature, much like art, produces enduring expressions of beauty, rarity, and emotion.

Speaking on the installation and its India debut, Shweta Harit, Global Senior Vice President, De Beers Group, said, “Natural diamonds are among nature’s most extraordinary artworks, formed over billions of years, each one entirely unique. Presenting Voyage Through the Diamond Realm at India Art Fair feels fitting, diamonds are cultural artefacts, that inspire artistic dialogue which feels deeply relevant to India.

Our collaboration with artist Lakshmi Madhavan brings together two worlds of creation, one born deep within the earth, the other shaped by generations of human hands, while our association with India Art Fair reinforces our belief that art is a powerful lens through which material, heritage and meaning can be reimagined.”

Following its debut at Frieze Masters, London in 2025, the India edition underscored De Beers’ continued commitment to the country and deepened the narrative through a collaboration with contemporary artist Lakshmi Madhavan. Her installation featuring Kasavu, Kerala’s traditional gold-bordered handwoven textile, emerged as a compelling focal point.

Developed in collaboration with the Balaramapuram weaving community, the Kasavu installation served as a human counterpoint to the diamond. Together, diamonds and Kasavu revealed shared themes of time, continuity, craftsmanship and transformation.

Reflecting on the collaboration, Lakshmi Madhavan said, “I am truly excited to be part of this collaboration, which allowed me to work with a material that holds as much history, heritage, and cultural meaning as my core material — the Kasavu textile. Adornment emerged for me as one of the earliest human impulses, where materials gain meaning only in relation to the body.

Created in collaboration with the Balaramapuram Kasavu weaving community, the installation positions Kasavu as a human analogue to the diamond. Both materials carry histories of time and transformation and are activated through wear, touch and lived ritual.”

A unique highlight of the installation was the presentation of four exceptional natural-coloured diamonds — Pink, Orange, Light Blue and the rare Chameleon diamond, known for its remarkable ability to temporarily change colour to yellow when gently heated, before returning to its original hue. Displayed as individual expressions of geological artistry, the gems embodied the extraordinary diversity and rarity found in nature.

Adding to this showcase was a five-carat exceptional Forevermark diamond, accompanied by a ring design created by the Milan-based design team, offering interested collectors the opportunity to translate nature’s artwork into a contemporary piece of fine jewellery.

Presented in partnership with India Art Fair, the exhibition reinforced the role of collaborative platforms in expanding cultural dialogue and artistic awareness in India.

The opening reception drew a distinguished gathering from across film, art, design and culture. Among those in attendance were actor Khushi Kapoor, producer and fashion entrepreneur Rhea Kapoor, artist Ravi Vazirani, Yashwant Holkar, Lavina Baldota, designer Tahir Sultan, architect Khsuhnu Hoof among others.

Extending its engagement with India’s art ecosystem, De Beers also hosted an evening in collaboration with India Art Fair’s Young Collectors Programme.The event brought together emerging collectors, creative professionals and young cultural voices for an intimate experience of Voyage Through the Inner Realm, fostering dialogue around art, materiality and strengthening the foundations of India’s contemporary art landscape.

Through its presence at India Art Fair 2026, De Beers’ reaffirmed its commitment to cultural dialogue, craftsmanship and responsible luxury, positioning natural diamonds within a broader narrative where nature itself is the ultimate artist.

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JewelBuzz is Asia’s First Digital Jewellery Media & India’s No.1 B2B Jewellery Magazine, published by AM Media House. Since 2016, we’ve been the trusted source for jewellery news, market trends, trade insights, exhibitions, podcasts, and brand stories, connecting jewellers, retailers, and industry professionals worldwide.

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