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CIBJO report considers listing gem labs complying with Blue Book Standards

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With less than a month to go before the CIBJO Congress 2025 opens in Paris on 27th October, the seventh pre-congress Special Report has been released by the CIBJO Gemmological Commission, chaired by Hanco Zwaan.

“There have in recent years been concerns expressed about gemstone reports issued by different labs for the same stones, with different and sometime contradictory findings,” said Hanco Zwaan. “This has brought into question the qualifications of the laboratories issuing the reports, taking into consideration that, worldwide, there is very little official oversight as to what are the requirements for an organisation to claim to be a gem testing laboratory.”

Central to the proposed listing would be the CIBJO Gemmological Laboratories Blue Book, which outlines management and technical guidelines for gem labs, aligning with ISO Standard 17025. Other relevant Blue Books cover diamonds, coloured gemstones, pearls, and precious coral.

According to Dr. Zwaan, the system would allow the trade and consumers to clearly identify laboratories that operate with quality management systems and transparency. “The results given in reports often have a significant impact on the value of the item being reported upon,” he explained.

A key document that would have to be applied by listed labs would be the CIBJO Gemmological Laboratories Blue Book, a mammoth opus that is compiled by the Gemmological Commission. Providing guidelines for the management and technical operations of gem labs, it complies with and expands upon ISO Standard 17025, which is the internationally recognised accreditation management systems for testing and calibration laboratories. Also relevant are CIBJO’s Blue Books for diamonds, coloured gemstones, pearls and precious coral.

The Gemmology Special Report also reviews progress on the forthcoming CIBJO Jade Guide, highlights the Laboratory Manual Harmonisation Committee’s work, and examines the increasing role of artificial intelligence and machine learning in gemmology.

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International News

Cartier Reimagines an Icon: The Ruby-Set ‘Juste un Clou’ Debuts for Lunar New Year

A Fusion of Industrial Rebellion and Festive Elegance Marks a Limited-Edition Celebration of Luck and Prosperity.

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In a bold intersection of high-fashion defiance and cultural tradition, Cartier has unveiled a limited-edition interpretation of its legendary Juste un Clou collection. This special release sees the iconic “nail” silhouette transformed with a festive row of vivid red rubies, launched specifically to commemorate the Lunar New Year.

Originally conceived in 1970s New York by designer Aldo Cipullo, the Juste un Clou has long been a symbol of the “rebellious spirit” and the elevation of the ordinary into the extraordinary. By integrating rubies—stones that traditionally symbolize luck, vitality, and renewal—Cartier effectively bridges its radical Western design heritage with the deep-rooted values of the East.

The collection features the signature wrap-around nail design in gold in bracelets, necklaces, earrings & rings with the “head” and “point” of the nail meticulously pavé-set with high-quality rubies. Industry experts view this move as a strategic masterstroke, as the “festive red” aesthetic continues to be a primary driver for luxury consumption during the spring transition.

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