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SSEF Warns Emerald Buyers Of Post-Certification Treatment Fraud

By Treating The Gemstones After Testing, Fraudulent Actors Are Able To Falsely Inflate The Apparent Value Of The Stones

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The Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF) has issued an urgent trade alert warning gemstone buyers about a growing fraudulent practice: emeralds being artificially clarity-enhanced after they have received independent laboratory certification.

By treating the gemstones after testing, fraudulent actors are able to falsely inflate the apparent value of the stones while still using the original, clean lab report.

Because the high-end gemstone market heavily favors emeralds with no or minimal clarity modification, some sellers are exploiting the certification process through a multi-step deception:

  • Chemical Cleaning: Emeralds previously treated with artificial resins are chemically cleaned with strong solvents to remove the fillers.
  • Laboratory Testing: These cleaned emeralds—which may now display prominent, open fissures—are submitted to gem labs for testing. The resulting lab reports accurately state that no or only minor clarity modification was evident at the time of testing.
  • Post-Test Treatment: After receiving the clean report, the stones are treated again with oils, resins, or wax to improve their appearance before being sold alongside the outdated certificate.

While filling fissures in emeralds with oil, wax, or artificial resin to improve clarity is a legal and standard practice in the industry, it is a strict requirement that all such treatments be fully disclosed to the buyer.

SSEF warns the trade that this post-certification alteration is on the rise and cautions buyers to remain highly vigilant when purchasing high-value emeralds. The institute noted that the same fraudulent practice is also being observed among other gemstone categories.

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Mohar Fine Jewels x Gemfields : From Florals To Geometry, Coloured Gemstones Take New Forms

The Latest Collection Pairs Gemfields’ Zambian Emeralds and Mozambican Rubies With Mohar Fine Jewels’ Craftsmanship Across Bold, Floral and Contemporary Designs. 

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With a three-generation legacy in fine jewellery, Mohar Fine Jewels has built its expertise around natural gemstones, with emeralds being a particular focus for the family. The latest additions to the partnership with Gemfields bring together Zambian emeralds and Mozambican rubies across individual designs that play with floral forms, geometric silhouettes and statement proportions.

The new pieces look at coloured gemstone jewellery through a more expressive lens, with the gemstones often taking centre stage rather than being treated as accents. The Ruby Droplet Earrings, for instance, use 33.69cts of Gemfields Mozambican rubies with 4.78cts of diamonds, creating a bold red statement in 18k gold. On the emerald side, the Emerald and Diamond Blooming Studs bring together 18.30cts of Gemfields Zambian emeralds with 4.07cts of diamonds, translating the idea of a bloom into a more defined, sculptural silhouette.

The Emerald and Diamond Earrings make a statement through scale, featuring 51.59cts of Zambian emeralds alongside 8.96cts of diamonds. A more structured take comes through in the Emerald and Diamond Studs, which pair 7.36cts of Zambian emeralds with 0.965cts of diamonds. Meanwhile, the Emerald and Yellow Diamond Studs introduce a contrasting play of colour, centred around a 25.6ct Zambian emerald with 3.09cts of diamonds. The Ruby Blossom Necklace takes the floral inspiration in another direction, using a blooming silhouette to frame the deep red of Mozambican rubies.

Across the pieces, the designs move between statement and more wearable silhouettes, making coloured gemstones the defining element for occasion dressing while bringing together Mohar Fine Jewels’ craftsmanship and Gemfields’ Zambian emeralds and Mozambican rubies.

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