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Sotheby’s Geneva Auctions Sparkle to $51M, Blue Diamond Leads Record-Breaking Sales

Sotheby’s Geneva Auctions Sparkle to $51M, Blue Diamond Leads Record-Breaking Sales

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Sotheby’s recent Royal & Noble Jewels and High Jewelry auctions achieved a combined CHF 41.2 million ($51.3 million), led by a dazzling fancy-vivid-blue diamond that sold for CHF 4.8 million ($6 million).

The unmounted 4.50-carat, oval mixed-cut, internally flawless stone was the star of the November 12 High Jewelry sale, comfortably meeting its presale expectations. The auction delivered strong performance overall, with 94% of lots sold and 75% surpassing their high estimates.

In the Royal & Noble Jewels segment, historic pieces drew intense bidding, including a brooch-pendant once owned by Napoleon and a light-pink diamond ring that belonged to Empress Catherine I of Russia and was later passed down to an Ottoman princess. Several treasures in this category sold for multiples of their projected prices.

Here are the rest of the top five lots from the High Jewels sale:

A pair of striking earrings by Scheiner, showcasing cushion modified brilliant-cut fancy-vivid-yellow diamonds of 38.66 and 38.88 carats suspended from rectangular modified brilliant-cut diamonds weighing 2 and 2.03 carats, achieved CHF 2.7 million ($3.4 million). The jewels sold squarely within their presale estimate range.

A standout ring featuring a cushion-shaped 12.78-carat Burmese ruby flanked by triangular diamonds far outperformed expectations, soaring past its CHF 550,000 ($691,771) high estimate to achieve an impressive CHF 1.1 million ($1.4 million).

A Van Cleef & Arpels ring set with a cushion-shaped 7.69-carat Kashmir sapphire, framed by pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds, exceeded expectations at auction, selling for CHF 914,400 ($1.2 million) against a high estimate of CHF 650,000 ($817,602).

A Van Cleef & Arpels Gazelle necklace featuring graduated oval rubies set between brilliant-cut diamonds—and centered by a striking 5.20-carat oval Burmese ruby—drew strong bidding at auction. The piece, which also includes three detachable ruby pendants weighing 3.56, 3.39, and 2.79 carats, soared past its CHF 320,000 ($402,512) high estimate to realize CHF 838,200 ($1.1 million).

An early 19th-century brooch-pendant once owned by Napoleon Bonaparte drew exceptional interest at auction. Showcasing a 13.04-carat oval diamond framed by old mine- and mazarin-cut stones, the historic jewel shattered its CHF 200,000 ($251,577) high estimate, ultimately achieving CHF 3.5 million ($4.4 million).

A historic ring once belonging to Empress Catherine I of Russia—and later gifted to Ottoman Princess Neslishah Sultan for her wedding—commanded remarkable attention. Set with a brilliant-cut 13.86-carat light-pink VS2 diamond accented by old mine- and rose-cut stones, the piece soared to CHF 2.9 million ($3.7 million), more than seven times its CHF 400,000 ($503,161) high estimate.

A Cartier necklace showcasing an octagonal step-cut 11.78-carat Colombian emerald topped with an old mine-cut diamond—and framed by old European-cut diamonds—attracted vigorous bidding. The piece, also set with a 5.54-carat marquise-shaped D-color, VS2 diamond, surged past its CHF 500,000 ($628,924) estimate to achieve CHF 1.3 million ($1.7 million).

An unmounted cushion-shaped 132.66-carat gemstone, reportedly worn by Emperor Napoleon I at his coronation, captured intense interest at auction. It dramatically exceeded its CHF 48,000 ($60,377) high estimate, selling for CHF 838,200 ($1.1 million.

Dating to around 1840, a tiara from Henrietta Scott, Duchess of Portland, featuring old mine- and rose-cut diamonds, captivated collectors. Designed as a garland of wild roses and convertible into five brooches and two pairs of ear clips, the piece more than doubled its CHF 170,000 ($213,829) high estimate, realizing CHF 393,700 ($495,202).

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International News

Vicenzaoro September 2026 Closes With Stronger International Footprint

The Five-Day Trade Show Recorded A 4% Increase In Total Visitors Compared With The September 2025 Edition, While International Attendance Rose By 9%.

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Vicenzaoro September 2026 concluded on 8 September with further growth in visitor traffic and international participation, reinforcing its position as a key global meeting point for the jewellery, gemstones, precious metals and technology industries. Organised by Italian Exhibition Group (IEG), the five-day trade show recorded a 4% increase in total visitors compared with the September 2025 edition, while international attendance rose by 9%.

The edition marked the first major presentation of the expanded Vicenza Expo Centre following the opening of the new Hall 2. The upgraded infrastructure, combined with the show’s Boutique Show format, brought the jewellery supply chain together under one roof—from manufacturing technologies and machinery at T.Gold to finished jewellery, gemstones, packaging and related services.

International attendance reaches new markets

Vicenzaoro attracted visitors from 136 foreign countries, a 4% increase compared with September 2025. Attendance from Europe grew by 9%, while non-European participation also rose by 9%, reaching 91 countries. Visitors from the United States increased by 2%.

The largest international visitor groups came from:

  • The United Kingdom.
  • Germany.
  • China.
  • India.
  • Romania.
  • Switzerland.
  • Spain.
  • Denmark.
  • Colombia.
  • Belgium.

The strongest growth in visitor numbers was recorded from South Korea, Singapore, Kuwait, South Africa, Finland, Norway, Denmark, Indonesia, Cyprus and Saudi Arabia.

India’s presence among the top five international visitor markets underlines the importance of the country to Vicenzaoro’s global strategy and reflects the continued strength of business links between Italian manufacturers and the Indian jewellery trade.

“This growth confirms the work carried out during the transitional editions when construction of the new Hall 2 was underway,” said Matteo Farsura, head of IEG’s Jewellery & Fashion division. He noted that international attendance has risen steadily since September 2024 and, boosted by T.Gold, is now 12% higher despite an increasingly complex global environment.

MAECI and ICE programme delivers 910 buyers

The show’s international business programme, organised in collaboration with Italy’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation (MAECI) and the Italian Trade Agency, brought 700 hosted international buyers to Vicenza. A further 210 Italian buyers participated, taking the total number of hosted trade visitors to a record 910.

The buyers represented 73 countries and were reported to be 33% higher in number than at the September 2025 edition.

Farsura said the programme was designed not only to increase visitor numbers but also to identify buyers according to the profiles of exhibiting companies and the markets they serve. The network of approximately 70 Italian Trade Agency offices worldwide played a significant role in supporting the initiative.

New Hall 2 reshapes the exhibition

The opening of Hall 2 represented a significant milestone in IEG’s development of the Vicenza Expo Centre. The two-storey facility covers approximately 23,000 square metres and connects Halls 1, 3, 4 and 6, improving movement across the exhibition complex and creating a more integrated environment for exhibitors and visitors.

The expanded layout hosted 1,300 exhibiting brands from 40 countries, with international exhibitors accounting for 45% of the total. T.Gold, the specialised exhibition dedicated to jewellery manufacturing technologies and machinery, was brought inside the Expo Centre for the first time, strengthening the show’s ability to present the complete value chain in a single location.

In a period marked by uncertain demand, margin pressure and changing consumer expectations, the format enabled Vicenzaoro to combine commercial activity with a focus on innovation, production efficiency and future market trends.

CIBJO centenary adds global relevance

A major feature of the September edition was the centenary congress of CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation. Led by President Gaetano Cavalieri, CIBJO brings together the international jewellery industry around standards, nomenclature, responsible business practices and consumer confidence.

Held in Vicenza to mark the organisation’s 100th anniversary, the congress attracted more than 600 delegates, including representatives of luxury groups, mining companies, retailers, laboratories and other parts of the global supply chain.

The congress addressed several of the industry’s most pressing issues, including sustainability, market transparency, the classification of natural and laboratory-grown diamonds and coloured stones, and the need to strengthen consumer trust. Its presence further positioned Vicenzaoro as a forum where businesses, associations and institutions can discuss the structural changes shaping the jewellery sector.

Networking remains central to the show

Beyond its exhibition and sourcing functions, Vicenzaoro continued to emphasise the value of professional relationships. The event provided a platform for companies, buyers, institutions, associations and international industry leaders to exchange views and develop new commercial connections.

This networking-led approach has become one of the show’s defining characteristics, allowing business discussions to extend beyond individual transactions to wider conversations on market development, technology, distribution and consumer behaviour.

The September edition also featured the ninth edition of VO Vintage, which brought together 53 selected exhibitors specialising in vintage and modern jewellery and watches. The event, open to the general public, combined sales with an educational programme featuring expert speakers and initiatives aimed at strengthening interest in watchmaking culture.

Broad industry support

Vicenzaoro’s strategic partners include MAECI and the Italian Trade Agency. Its international partners are CIBJO, GJEPC India, the Hong Kong Jewellery & Jade Manufacturers Association and Francéclat.

National partners include Confindustria Federorafi, Confcommercio Federpreziosi, Confartigianato Orafi, CNA Orafi, Club degli Orafi Italia, Confimi Industria’s Gold and Silver Category, Assogemme, Assocoral and AFEMO. The regions of Sicily and Campania also participated as institutional representatives.

IEG’s jewellery calendar will continue with JGTD—Jewellery, Gems and Technology in Dubai—from 27 to 29 October 2026. Italy’s jewellery industry will meet next at the Valenza Gem Forum on 22 October and the Italian Jewellery Summit in Arezzo on 3 December.

The next edition of Vicenzaoro and T.Gold will take place from 15 to 19 January 2027, while VO Vintage is scheduled for 15 to 18 January 2027.

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