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GJ exporters  hasten US shipments amid tariff uncertainty

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Following a landmark US Supreme Court ruling on February 20, 2026, which invalidated President Trump’s “reciprocal tariffs” under the International Emergency Economic Powers Act (IEEPA), the trade landscape has shifted into a volatile transition period. In response, the US administration has invoked Section 122 of the Trade Act of 1974, implementing a temporary 15% global import surcharge.

Indian exporters in various sectors including GJ are currently racing to maximize shipments within a 150-day window to capitalize on the relative certainty of the current 15% rate before potential further escalations under Section 301. The “150-day window” (ending roughly in July 2026) has become a critical marathon for Indian logistics. While the Supreme Court ruling offered a brief moment of relief by striking down 50% “penalty” duties, the immediate reimposition of a 15% surcharge keeps the “landed cost” of Indian goods high.

Gems and Jewellery sector impact

  • Current Status: The sector is reeling from a 60% year-on-year decline in cut and polished diamond exports (falling from $3.64 billion to $1.45 billion in the April–December 2025 period).
  • Exporter Action: The Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) successfully requested Mumbai Customs to remain open over the weekend to facilitate immediate dispatches.
  • Trade Deal Outlook: Under a recently announced interim framework, India expects zero-duty access for diamonds and a reduction in jewellery tariffs to 18% (down from 25%). Exporters are rushing to ship goods before these negotiated terms are potentially complicated by the new Section 122 surcharge.

Technical Regulatory Framework

The shift in US policy utilizes two distinct legal “hammers”:

RegulationStatusImpact on Indian Exporters
IEEPA (Reciprocal Tariffs)InvalidatedStruck down by SCOTUS (6-3); provides legal grounds for potential duty refunds.
Section 122 (Trade Act 1974)Active15% surcharge for a maximum of 150 days to address balance-of-payments deficits.
Section 301ThreatenedAllows USTR to impose punitive tariffs for “unfair” trade practices; seen as a looming risk.

Strategic Outlook

The “150-day window” (ending roughly in July 2026) has become a critical marathon for Indian logistics. While the Supreme Court ruling offered a brief moment of relief by striking down 50% “penalty” duties, the immediate reimposition of a 15% surcharge keeps the “landed cost” of Indian goods high.

Note: Exporters are urged to maintain close coordination with the Union Commerce Ministry, as the operationalization of the India-US Interim Trade Pact (expected in April 2026) may offer a “carve-out” or preferential rate that bypasses the global 15% surcharge.

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International News

Signet The Biggest-Grossing Jeweller In North America By Far In 2025

Luxury Groups, Specialist Watch Retailers, and Branded Jewellery Players Are Steadily Gaining Ground Against Traditional Mass-Market and Department-Store Operators

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National Jeweler’s latest State of the Majors report highlights a shifting leaderboard among North America’s “$100M supersellers,” which grew from 36 to 37 qualifying retailers in 2025. While Signet Group comfortably defended its first-place crown—generating $6.36 billion across 2,329 stores—the rest of the top ten saw major disruption. Signet’s total watch and jewelry sales for the year were $6.36 billion according to the report and had 2,329 outlets. Second-placed Richemont, the Swiss luxury conglomerate, sold  $3.62 billion, with just 105 locations selling watches and jewlery.             

One of the report’s most notable developments was the rise of Richemont to the No. 2 position, overtaking several larger-format retailers. The Swiss luxury conglomerate, owner of prestigious maisons including Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, reported $3.62 billion in watch and jewellery sales through only 105 locations. The performance illustrates the outsized revenue-generating power of luxury retail, with Richemont achieving high productivity per store compared with mass-market competitors.

The reshuffling pushed Walmart down to fourth place, signaling a broader shift in consumer spending toward premium and luxury jewellery categories. Meanwhile, warehouse retailer Costco advanced to No. 5, continuing to strengthen its position in fine jewellery through value-led offerings and member-driven purchasing.

Jewellery brand Pandora also climbed one rank to secure the No. 7 spot, reflecting sustained demand for branded jewellery collections and accessible luxury products. In contrast, luxury powerhouse LVMH slipped to No. 6, while longstanding department store chain Macy’s moved down to eighth place, highlighting increased competitive pressures within traditional retail channels.

Another significant change came at the lower end of the top ten, where Watches of Switzerland Group entered the rankings at No. 10, marking growing momentum for specialist luxury watch retail in North America. Its entry displaced Bucherer to No. 11, emphasizing the increasingly competitive nature of premium watch distribution.

The report points to a broader transformation in North America’s jewellery retail hierarchy, where luxury groups, specialist watch retailers, and branded jewellery players are steadily gaining ground against traditional mass-market and department-store operators. While scale remains a decisive advantage—as demonstrated by Signet’s market leadership—the rankings suggest profitability and influence are increasingly being driven by premium positioning, brand equity, and high-value transactions rather than store count alone.

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