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CIBJO and AGTA Demand Full Disclosure on Irradiated Rubies and Sapphires

Trade Bodies Urge Transparency as Growing Concerns Over Color Stability and Treatment of Gemstones Persist

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Rubies and sapphires are increasingly being treated with irradiation, a process that temporarily enhances their color, sparking concerns among professional trade organizations about the long-term stability of these gemstones. In a joint statement, the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO), the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA), and the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA) have reiterated their call for full transparency and disclosure regarding gemstone treatments, particularly for stones sourced from Sri Lanka.

Since 1981, AGTA has advocated for a coding system to identify treated gemstones, and in 2010, CIBJO, AGTA, and ICA reached a global consensus on the disclosure of colored gemstone treatments. Despite these efforts, concerns remain, especially after the release of the 2022 statement, “Irradiation of Rubies: a Cautionary Note.” The issue of irradiated rubies and sapphires, particularly from Sri Lanka, continues to be a source of industry unease due to the temporary nature of their enhanced appearance.

AGTA has raised alarms in the U.S., where many dealers have stopped purchasing yellow, peach, and padparadscha sapphires, along with rubies from Sri Lanka, due to fears about their color stability over time. In response, the Sri Lankan Gem and Jewellery Association (SLGJA) has pledged to strengthen test reporting and encourage better disclosure practices.

CIBJO, AGTA, and ICA are urging authorities in Sri Lanka and other gemstone-producing regions to address these concerns urgently. “If the current situation persists, it will inevitably harm the industry and undermine consumer confidence in colored gemstones,” they warned.

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Brilliant Earth Reports 10% Sales Growth, Warns of Profit Pressure from Rising Tariffs and Metal Costs

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Brilliant Earths revenue rose 10% year-on-year to $110.3 million in the third quarter, surpassing its projected growth of 8% to 10%, driven by continued strong consumer demand. The number of orders climbed 17% to 49,910, while the net loss narrowed by 37% to $672,000, reflecting improved operational efficiency.

The US-based jeweller raised its 2025 sales growth forecast to 3%–4.5%, up from its earlier outlook of 2.5%–4%. However, the company now anticipates its full-year adjusted EBITDA margin to range between 2% and 3%, revised downward from the previous 3%–4%, as rising metal and tariff costs are expected to weigh on profitability.

Brilliant Earth noted that while brand strength and consumer appetite remain robust, fluctuating input costs continue to present near-term challenges, particularly heading into the fourth quarter and holiday season.

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